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Sportster Motorcycle Transmission, Clutch, Primary & Secondary Drive Transmission, Clutch and primary or secondary drive problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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  #11  
Old 1st March 2020
sml1226 sml1226 is offline
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I don’t think I have my old instructions to see what they said. Now you’ve got me wondering if I just ignored them or if they’ve changed since I installed mine.
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  #12  
Old 1st March 2020
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Either way is good, as long as your friction side in toward the pressure plate who care.
What not to do is steel side to pressure plate or bottom of the basket.

Mechanically, it will spin like a burnt clutch if you go steel on metal (pressure plate or basket back plate). I don't see any advantage for the clutch were the friction side are.

On the OEM the friction is on both side with double sided steel.

Now the XR judder spring can be installed easily.
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  #13  
Old 1st March 2020
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I dont see the point in it.
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  #14  
Old 1st March 2020
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If you have a squeal from the clutch when taking off in first gear the XR1200/Buell XB judder spring setup will likely eliminate it (this is assuming no spring plate) plus it can make clutch take up smoother and less abrupt...but if you don't have a squeal and are happy with the clutch feel then no point.
FWIW Barnett used to supply a very similar 1/2 width plate and judder spring with their Sportster clutch kits.

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  #15  
Old 1st March 2020
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It definitely doesn’t matter if you go one direction or the other with the Carbonite stack provided relative orientations are good, this just made me curious whether I’d done it “backwards” the whole time or not.

I’m curious what the cost difference would be for HD to actually change it and just use the XR setup as the factory assembly. It makes so much more sense to have an extra friction plate double as your damper than run a squishy triple wide drive plate in there, especially when it’s known to fail catastrophically.

Of course, running a solid stack works for a lot of people without issue, and that’s cheaper than swapping to the superior (to stock) damper assembly. Like everyone’s said, if it doesn’t squeal, run it straight. If it does, the XR parts work great, even with the Carbonite.
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Rocketman, can you post the instructions?
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  #17  
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https://www.motorcycleid.com/images/...structions.pdf
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  #18  
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Thank You !
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  #19  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sml1226 View Post
It definitely doesn’t matter if you go one direction or the other with the Carbonite stack provided relative orientations are good, this just made me curious whether I’d done it “backwards” the whole time or not.

I’m curious what the cost difference would be for HD to actually change it and just use the XR setup as the factory assembly. It makes so much more sense to have an extra friction plate double as your damper than run a squishy triple wide drive plate in there, especially when it’s known to fail catastrophically.

Of course, running a solid stack works for a lot of people without issue, and that’s cheaper than swapping to the superior (to stock) damper assembly. Like everyone’s said, if it doesn’t squeal, run it straight. If it does, the XR parts work great, even with the Carbonite.
FWIW when I installed the XR1200 judder spring a year ago in place of the spring plate and got rid of the squeal I had with the two steel/one friction spring plate replacement deal I sent an email to HD's customer suggestion box...but got no reply. Agree, the change from spring plate to judder spring on XL's could be done at the factory at little or no cost.

(I doubt I'm the first to think of the XR1200/Buell XB judder spring fix however didn't see another reference on the web last year...but did get the idea from the Barnett diagram above)
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  #20  
Old 2nd March 2020
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My buddies 2003 Softail had the judder spring setup from the factory. The parts are called a damper spring seat and diaphragm spring. I didn't cross check to see if they are the same part numbers as the XR parts.
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