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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #821  
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I don't know about the Fairbanks coils but the Morris ones I use run at 13,000 ohms.
Both of your ares showing less and that may or may not indicate a problem.

Greg Bryllus has had two failures with his Vincent at big meetings lately. One was a coil failure the other was points/condenser (capacitor). But he's running Joe Hunts.
I run a Morris and swear by it, Greg swears at his.

The second hand F/B's you see around the traps are all pretty much getting a bit long in the tooth now. Most of them really could benefit from a rebuild.

I have little to no choice about running a magneto on my race engine. Firing Mrthanol at 15 to 1 is "problematic" with anything else. On a street ridden bike battery/points are really a much better option. Having said that most of us purists are always going to run Maggies. Kool factor is just way too high.

Points and capacitors for maggneto's are (or should be) different. Battery systems only run at 12 olts through the points and so see less "wear and tear" than magneto points. Capacitors too should be gigher rating types. It might even pay you to run one externally to the magneto. Runs cooler, looks like a race item and you can fit larger ones. Capacitors act like a small rechargeable battery. Storing some energy as the points open and then releasing it when they close. So, more capacity (larger) will help.

I'll be running amagneto in the 58 CH engine I'm rebuilding. But it's bored and stroked and I might even put it on Meth. I'll be running the -- cams but even then the chances of me kick starting this thing become less with every passing day.
I'm putting a Morris M3 on it. A new one. In the hopes that I can kick it. If I can't I'll drop the comp and run gas. If I still can't kick it into life I'm going to buy one of those new fangled Honda things. They tell me they have "electric" starters.

Key locks on the F/B's aren't hard to remove. But be careful - you need to remove the black plastic block first You can break them quite easily if you don't.
The circlip is there - hard to see but easy enough once you have done one. I can't se them anymore and have to get someone else to do it.
Keys are Chicago lock (used on office drwers) and can still be had cheaply. The code is on the lock and will ve something like L02.
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  #822  
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Oh. The rotor magnets lose their magnetism over time too. The can be re-magnetized. I know Morris can do them for you (as well as others). Prtty sure Morris will rebuild a F/B if you want/need it. Might be worth considering.
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Thanks, Ferrous Head! I do have a brand new MM rare earth magnet rotor. What bothers me with coils is the difference in primary winding resistance - less than 1 Ohm vs 7 Ohms. That can't be right. 7 Ohms sounds much better to me.

I will be thankful if someone could post primary winding resistance measurement from an OEM coil.
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I'm thinking mine was 9 but can't remember n all honesty. But there's bugger all difference between 7 and 9. 1 oesn't sound like enough.
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Do you wonder why Top Fuel bikes run battery and coil ignitions if only a mag can fire big fuel loads at high compression?

Might be an Old Wives Tail at work here.
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I guess that's possible. But I am going on advice given to me by John Trease. He made his own duual plug magneto by welding two FB Morse's together, top to top I kid you not. And it was a front mount setup. Sticking out of the gennt mount hole it looked likea "Rbe Goldberg" invention.
When I asked John why he was doing this he told me "Nothing else works."

If the top fuel bikes are running battery/coils then they must have found them to be OK.

I was also trying to keep away from batteries all together. They are just another problem area.OK maybe for 8 seconds but my bikes run for 20 minutes at a ttime. I've had enough DNF'd from dead batteries to last me a lifetime.

When I look at the Top Fuel cars the ones I see are all running mags. But that may well be due to dwell time rather than spark intensity.

On the point of spark intensity I have seem the spark mine throws and you could weld with it.

I do have a mag on my 66 CH and it's a street bike. But it's getting so I won;t rife it if it doesn't start on the first 3 kicks. I'm too knackered after that to go anywhere. I jump on my 74 and just push the button.
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You can see John's efforts here. Lot of trouble to go to.


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All business.

Interesting the compensator was retained.

Shovelheads?
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Yeah, Pan heads with one reversed.
Cases are his own. Gearbox mainshaft is closer to the engine sprocket shaft.
John was very "innovative". I watched John pass a Period 5 Kawasaki coining onto the main straight at Broadford while riding his "Old Nail". His "Old Nail" is probably putting out 100 HP. His "Fast Bike (pic above) is putting out a LOT more than his "Old Nail:.
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I made a request to Morris Magneto tech support to find out which coil is a correct one to be used with their rare earth magnet rotor.

I was going to believe that one of my coils that has a less than 1 Ohm primary winding resistance has a shortage inside, but while browsing through different Fairbanks Morse coils on ebay, I found one that stated in the description that it has 0.28 Ohms primary winding resistance, which is close to mine.

My physics/electricity knowledge is pretty limited, but I believe that a 0.28 Ohm primary /9220 Ohm secondary coil would produce a stronger voltage (and spark) than a 7 Ohm primary/11970 Ohm secondary coil. Still no spark between coil terminals (cap off) when I rotate it by hand, and that is with MM rare earth rotor.

Winter is here, snowing every day, so I do have plenty time to get it right untill the middle of April.
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