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  #11  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustert View Post
rewind it for less money. hd uses a 15awg magnet wire.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Lwr3USwM_I
Quote:
Originally Posted by bustert View Post
I quoted bustert's stator rewinding videos here as that may be how I fix this.
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  #12  
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Originally Posted by Scuba10jdl View Post
You don't have to remove the clutch cable to do a stator job. On the Sporty the cable is long enough you can just pull the primary cover off and lay it off to the side on the ground, a stool or crate, etc.

Saves a fair amount of hassle of having to remove the clutch cable. Plus, lots of people end up stripping the end that goes in the cover by over torquing. And less steps for you next time!
I agree, it's easier just to hang the cover.
I went through the steps to get the pics.
Then the lighting in my shop doesn't like cameras..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
I agree, it's easier just to hang the cover.
I went through the steps to get the pics.
Then the lighting in my shop doesn't like cameras..
haha Always something, right?

Excellent photos still. Good job documenting it.
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  #14  
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Thanks.

I have been snipping areas testing for grounding.
You can see how the wire jacket just breaks off when bent (although that was done with the crowbar).
The gooped area has a solid connection. I was concerned about output wires melding together near the goop.
That area seemed hard but that may have just been heat that hardened the jackets.

I cut the pigtail off and it tested out OK.
From the two coils (L and R) opposite the output wires, I cut the feed wire to each next coil and the two center coils were fine.



Then I checked the other coils (still in line but cut loose from the two center coils).
Should be an open circuit but they are all grounding to the stator frame.
So I started unwrapping the wire and retesting and still haven't the one that is grounding to the frame.



So the problem is either that the plastic on the frame to protect the wire is melted somewhere or the very brittle jacket on the wire is cracked/broken with the wire touching the top of one or more 'fingers' of the stator frame.





Plastic is pretty mangled on the offending post but the edge on the right side of the post has plastic melted down to the metal.



Question:
Is the plastic protection rebuild-able?
I know POR15 dries to a plastic like surface. I'll pull all the wire and take a pic.
But there are several if not most of the posts with plastic melted on the edges but not like the offending one.

Last edited by Hippysmack; 3 Weeks Ago at 04:25..
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  #15  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
Remove the stator.
The cable holder on the case has to come off but it's behind the shifter shaft assembly, which needs to come off..
my bolts there had screwdriver slots in them

I ground a screwdriver head at approx. 30 degrees and it enabled me to remove and replace screws with our disturbing gear change mechanism

your photos look good and provide a good guide to anybody else having to do this
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Very nicely done, kudos to you!
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  #17  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waiteitei View Post
my bolts there had screwdriver slots in them

I ground a screwdriver head at approx. 30 degrees and it enabled me to remove and replace screws with our disturbing gear change mechanism

your photos look good and provide a good guide to anybody else having to do this
Thanks. That's a good idea modding a screwdriver to access the screws.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterpaul View Post
Very nicely done, kudos to you!
Thank's again.

I'll take all I can get til I get to the end of this thread where everything goes wrong.

I cut out some of the sides and top to loosen the adhesive so I could pop it up and out with a small screwdriver.







This is what I was after.
I wanted to see how they connected the solid and stranded wires together.



I need to remove all the plastic and start over with frame insulation.
I've read of a few ways to do it including 'special' dialectic powder coat.
But I'm not sure what I can get a hold of and / or manage to do.

Here's the frame cleaned up.
You can see where the wire melted in on the corners of the plastic on most of the posts.
I've also read this can happen from age of the insulation as well as power surges.
The insulation gets brittle over time and cracks / breaks causing vibration between the strands.
This causes heat buildup and insulation melting as I have here.



The wire size is #15 awg as bustert said.
This stator has 26 turns per coil and each coil is just shy of 65" each.



I was looking at these specs on Cooner Wire's site and I can't tell the difference compared to what I have.
https://www.coonerwire.com/magnet-wire/
Especially since mine is in different thicknesses being used.


Last edited by Hippysmack; 3 Weeks Ago at 00:09..
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  #18  
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Nice write up. Very detailed and excellent pics.
One minor point of contention on my 05 and probably on all rubbermounts. The primary cover screws, unlike the cam cover, are all the same length. No need to keep track of where they were removed.
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Good write up, enjoying it.
Have you a screw loose on the securing plate on front sprocket?
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need a form??
i probably have a sportster or bt in my shop.
the bt will work also, it does have a slight diff in dimensions but sould work.
the hd system is engineered to just work with no over-head or fudge room. you can always up the gauge as long as there is clearance.
i know your problem and easy to fix.
slow down!!!!
all that grin factor speed and rpm increases ignition current draw, a horse can only run so far and then it will slow down and beating it never works!
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