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  #21  
Old 18th October 2017
Hotsauce Hotsauce is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: Ironhead 1000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Did you have the carb apart to service or clean the internal parts (like jets)?

You still need to check that the slide is operating correctly (no torn slide diaphragm)...

YouTube Video of GOOD working slide
YouTube Video of MALFUNCTIONING slide

Also check that the Needle Jet is installed correctly - It should stick into the venturi a little bit where the needle goes into it...

See the reference to the Needle Jet here:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...ur_information

And, be sure to close off that air nipple if you aren't using the VOES or the vacuum petcock...

The instructions for the Dynatek 2000i do recommend using the VOES - Is there some reason you are NOT using the VOES?

IXL 2 Relax
>>>> My Build & Ride Reports Are Here <<<<

Reference the Sportsterpedia
A FREE XLForum collection of technical info & advice


I did take the carb apart to clean it when I first got the bike but it hasn't been apart since then. I did remove the top cap that goes over the slide diaphragm when I moved the choke, but it was installed correctly. I looked last night and the slide is working correctly and the diaphragm up top is not torn.

The needle jet also seems to be correct according to the sportsterpedia page.

I did not wire in the VOES because at the time I installed the ignition (December of 2015) I had read on chopcult and xlforum several differing opinions on the importance of it. At the time, it seemed like it wasn't a big deal if I left it off. Maybe it's time to revise that decision.


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  #22  
Old 18th October 2017
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IXL2Relax IXL2Relax is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotsauce View Post
I did not wire in the VOES because at the time I installed the ignition (December of 2015) I had read on chopcult and xlforum several differing opinions on the importance of it. At the time, it seemed like it wasn't a big deal if I left it off. Maybe it's time to revise that decision.
At a minimum, you need to close off the vacuum nipple on the carb...

As to the VOES, be sure you are tuning for the choice you make...
See the Tuning Tip in the instructions:
https://www.mpsracing.com/instructions/Dynatek/D2Ki.pdf
http://www.vtwinmfg.com/instructions/32/32-9153.pdf

It would be good to simply go down the entire list provided on the Sportsterpedia and give us some idea of what your COMPLETE configuration is - Be sure to include the specific carb parts & settings but don't leave out the other stuff... We may notice something that needs checked...

What jets are you using - Main? Slow/Idle?
What needle are you using? DJ? Stock? N65C? Other?

When troubleshooting long distance, more information is always better, but it must be accurate and not simply a guess or surmising... You need to be the eyes-on-site for a long-distance look... Methodical, Thorough, Accurate & Descriptive...

IXL 2 Relax
>>>> My Build & Ride Reports Are Here <<<<

Reference the Sportsterpedia
A FREE XLForum collection of technical info & advice
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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 18th October 2017 at 20:22..
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  #23  
Old 18th October 2017
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bustert bustert is offline
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voes is basically an emissions thingy. on a stock machine there should be zero issues. with the adv coming in early, fuel burn is increased and less emission and at near wot, the voes will switch to retard to cut down on heating issues that may or may not lead to detonation. when using it, there will be better throttle response and mpg can benefit.
however, once you start to deviate from stock there comes a point where voes sucks. i had to eliminate mine because the early advance was causing clutch off ping and roll-ons and part throttle issues brought on by ambient conditions.
i now use rpm based advance and that cut out the early advance ping issues. it works out for me since it achieves full advance where i ride or cruise. the map system is way better than voes.
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  #24  
Old 18th October 2017
Hotsauce Hotsauce is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: Ironhead 1000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustert View Post
voes is basically an emissions thingy. on a stock machine there should be zero issues. with the adv coming in early, fuel burn is increased and less emission and at near wot, the voes will switch to retard to cut down on heating issues that may or may not lead to detonation. when using it, there will be better throttle response and mpg can benefit.
however, once you start to deviate from stock there comes a point where voes sucks. i had to eliminate mine because the early advance was causing clutch off ping and roll-ons and part throttle issues brought on by ambient conditions.
i now use rpm based advance and that cut out the early advance ping issues. it works out for me since it achieves full advance where i ride or cruise. the map system is way better than voes.


What is your ignition system that it would be able to use RPM's to determine advance? The motor on my bike is stock, and I have the dynatek 2000i ignition system but I have selected the "No VOES" option I believe.


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  #25  
Old 18th October 2017
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look at the tech info for your module and you will see adv curves with and without voes grounded. i basically have the same but diff name. each curve selected has a specific curve, on mine, i even had to retard the module a tad.
at present, i am using curve #4 and it comes in around 3k but since i retarded the module, probably 2.8k. now if the ambient is correct, i can get more aggressive with the curve but really can't tell any diff with the butt dyno. if i connected the voes then on curve #4 it would be adv around 1.5k.
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  #26  
Old 19th October 2017
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I'm late to the party, and I see the throttle cable issue has been cured. The carb was last cleaned when you first got the bike, so start there. Take that carb apart and make sure everything is clean, and that you can blow carb cleaner through every orifice. Clean that emulsion tube really good, and observe the direction that the needle jet goes in (larger opening up). Make sure the diaphragm is intact with no holes or tears. Throttle pump diaphragm too.

While the carb is off, replace the intake manifold seals (lightly grease them) and reinstall the manifold and carb.

Adjust the pull throttle cable first and when it's right, bring the return cable to where it is able to return the throttle when you twist it back, but if you tighten it past the normal gap, it will make the throttle stick. So make sure it is a bit loose.

Oh, while the carb is apart, write down the numbers on everything. Main jet, pilot jet, etc.

Then we will all know where you are right now, and knowing where you are is important in knowing where to send you from there.

And until this is right, don't start another project. One thing at a time will make it easier to know what each change is doing.
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  #27  
Old 19th October 2017
Hotsauce Hotsauce is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: Ironhead 1000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wedge View Post
I'm late to the party, and I see the throttle cable issue has been cured. The carb was last cleaned when you first got the bike, so start there. Take that carb apart and make sure everything is clean, and that you can blow carb cleaner through every orifice. Clean that emulsion tube really good, and observe the direction that the needle jet goes in (larger opening up). Make sure the diaphragm is intact with no holes or tears. Throttle pump diaphragm too.

While the carb is off, replace the intake manifold seals (lightly grease them) and reinstall the manifold and carb.

Adjust the pull throttle cable first and when it's right, bring the return cable to where it is able to return the throttle when you twist it back, but if you tighten it past the normal gap, it will make the throttle stick. So make sure it is a bit loose.

Oh, while the carb is apart, write down the numbers on everything. Main jet, pilot jet, etc.

Then we will all know where you are right now, and knowing where you are is important in knowing where to send you from there.

And until this is right, don't start another project. One thing at a time will make it easier to know what each change is doing.


Pulled the carb apart, everything was pretty clean. The intake manifold seals are new, they were replaced in the last few weeks when I put the heads back on. And the diaphragm on the top was not torn.

While the carb was apart I looked at the jetting, 160 Main, 42 Pilot, the Needle itself had no markings other than NOKK, which I'm assuming is a brand or model number?

I have ordered new cables because the bars that I purchased when I redid everything were a few inches taller and I think the old cables were a tad short. I could get them hooked up, but the butterfly never fully shut when they were hooked up and the carb was installed.


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  #28  
Old 19th October 2017
Hotsauce Hotsauce is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
At a minimum, you need to close off the vacuum nipple on the carb...

As to the VOES, be sure you are tuning for the choice you make...
See the Tuning Tip in the instructions:
https://www.mpsracing.com/instructions/Dynatek/D2Ki.pdf
http://www.vtwinmfg.com/instructions/32/32-9153.pdf

It would be good to simply go down the entire list provided on the Sportsterpedia and give us some idea of what your COMPLETE configuration is - Be sure to include the specific carb parts & settings but don't leave out the other stuff... We may notice something that needs checked...

What jets are you using - Main? Slow/Idle?
What needle are you using? DJ? Stock? N65C? Other?

When troubleshooting long distance, more information is always better, but it must be accurate and not simply a guess or surmising... You need to be the eyes-on-site for a long-distance look... Methodical, Thorough, Accurate & Descriptive...

IXL 2 Relax
>>>> My Build & Ride Reports Are Here <<<<

Reference the Sportsterpedia
A FREE XLForum collection of technical info & advice


I'm not 100% sure I understand the VOES switch importance. I understand that under normal driving conditions the timing advance is a set degree before top dead center (I believe I read 35 degrees). When the VOES kicks on, it will retard timing 10 degrees. So, under normal driving conditions unstressed the spark plug will fire a spark 35 degrees before top dead center on the power stroke and at 25 degrees when the VOES has grounded. What is the benefit of the 10 degree retard?

Also, I have a stock CV. It's got the stock Keihin components. (Pilot is 42, Main is 160, needle appears to be stock. Slide spring is stock length with no tears in the diaphragm.) I am running a mooneyes Air Cleaner on it instead of the stock air cleaner and the original ignition system was fried about a month after I bought the bike so I replaced it with a dynatek 2000i. At this time I also set it up for single fire as it came as an option in the dynatek kit. The heads are stock as well. I rewired the bike, but most of that was accessory type stuff. (Head light, turn signals, speedometer, brake lights, RFID keyless ignition lock)

Did I miss any info? I tried to remember everything.


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  #29  
Old 19th October 2017
John Harper John Harper is offline
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NOKK is the needle part number. My 883 with upgraded intake and exhaust now has a 45/180 jet combination. You could probably go with 45/190 if your motor has been upgraded.

John
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  #30  
Old 19th October 2017
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IXL2Relax IXL2Relax is offline
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I don't believe the VOES is the current issue - But your understanding of its operation is not quite correct...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotsauce View Post
I'm not 100% sure I understand the VOES switch importance.
Here's the Sportsterpedia section on the VOES:
VOES - Its Operation & Adjustment

==============================
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotsauce View Post
Now when I roll on the throttle it starts to die.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotsauce View Post
This is the first time the bike has been put together enough to run since probably May of 2016.

The bogging down: I've just had it in neutral, so there hasn't been much load on the bike. When I rolled on the throttle the bike bogged down in that the RPM's seemed to die down. It was almost like when you turn the peacock off and let it run out of gas. But I saw the injector pump actually squirt gas out when I rolled the throttle.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotsauce View Post
I have a stock CV. It's got the stock Keihin components. (Pilot is 42, Main is 160, needle appears to be stock. Slide spring is stock length with no tears in the diaphragm.) I replaced the ignition with a dynatek 2000i. At this time I also set it up for single fire as it came as an option in the dynatek kit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotsauce View Post
Pulled the carb apart, everything was pretty clean. The intake manifold seals are new, they were replaced in the last few weeks when I put the heads back on. And the diaphragm on the top was not torn. - While the carb was apart I looked at the jetting, 160 Main, 42 Pilot, the Needle itself had no markings other than NOKK, which I'm assuming is a brand or model number?
Please confirm - You are not riding the bike, it is just sitting still while running - and when you 'roll on the throttle' the engine begins to die, like a loss of fuel?

I've taken the list from the SP and populated it with what you said in multiple posts:


You're working on a 2003 883 (You might want to update your profile to add this bike)

Engine Size - Stk883
Heads Installed - Stock 883
Cam Installed - Stock D
Compression Test - ???

Ignition Module - Dynatek 2000I set for Single Fire
VOES being used - N
VOES Vacuum Mod'd - N

Air Cleaner - mooneyes Air Cleaner
Breather Venting - ??? - (???Head Into Carb, Head Out to Air, Crankcase)
Exhaust - ??? - (Stock, Specify Brand/Model/Baffles/TqCones)

Spark Plugs Used - ??? - (Stock, Specify Brand/Model#)
What Model Carb - Stock CV
Check for Intake Leak - Y - (brake cleaner)

Also
Stock Vac Petcock - ??? - (Y/N, Modified, Replaced-Brand/Model#)
Enrichener Cable Seated - ??? - (Y/N)
Vacuum Line No Leak - ??? - (Y/N)

Inside of CV Carburetor:
Slow Jet - 42 Keihin
Idle Mixture Screw - 1.5 out
IMS set by Idle Drop - ??? (Y/N - Did you change it?)
Drilled Slide - ??? - (Y/N - Based on who's recommendation?) Check the SP
Altered Slide Spring - N - Did you check the SP

Jet Needle - NOKK Keihin
Emulsion Tube - Appears Stock - Did you check the SP?
Main Jet - 160 Keihin

Fuel Float Level Set - ??? - (Y/N - Stock, Other)
Fuel Float Valve - ??? - (Y/N - Cleaned & Checked, Replaced)

Check and/or answer the remaining questions...

IXL 2 Relax
>>>> My Build & Ride Reports Are Here <<<<

Reference the Sportsterpedia
A FREE XLForum collection of technical info & advice

Last edited by IXL2Relax; 19th October 2017 at 16:03..
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