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  #21  
Old 24th October 2017
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I saw no mention of motor work in the OP.
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  #22  
Old 24th October 2017
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I don't see where anyone suggested re-jetting a CV40 would get you 90HP.
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  #23  
Old 24th October 2017
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i run a 200 main and if i discount the engine mods, i doubt the 180>200 change would give much more over stock. it would have probably experienced mix issues and a drop in mpg.
the thing is, it has to be a system that plays well with each other. if you change one thing, high chance you changed something else.
i have long said i need to copy rocketman's build as the carb goes since i am hobbled at present and the machine could go some more with what i have mod wise.
if you observe the builds by others, you get a great insight as to what does and what does not. do i feel ashamed i copied, nope!! maybe the guy i left behind will.
a vast sea of knowledge abounds here, just need to navigate your boat to your goal.
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  #24  
Old 27th October 2017
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Just checked mine,

Main-160
Slow-45
Needle -N9EY +1shim

So i am guessing totally stock? or has someone put a shim in?
Runs superb apart from slightly woolly in the mid range. Might go for a different needle.
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  #25  
Old 27th October 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harley506d View Post
Slow-45



So i am guessing totally stock?
Stock slow jet is 42, not 45.
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  #26  
Old 27th October 2017
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Most of the information you seek has already been figured out ...... decades ago, and well documented in the carb sticky section. (I think) Hammer performance has dyno sheets that demonstrate the hp limitation of the CV carb. At some point in desired hp and cost, a Mikuni carb makes more sense than modifying a CV. The main advantage of a CV is it maintains air fuel mixture over a wider range of altitudes.

No carb will work properly if not set up correctly to match engine and various mods. As you stated before, the hard part is shifting through all the BS.
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  #27  
Old 27th October 2017
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Neither was the needle shim !
That may have come with a 175 main so you could be lean now
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  #28  
Old 27th October 2017
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42/180 is stock on the 05 1200. No shim.
Mine had a 45/170 with the dynojet kit but dynojet jets also don't flow the same as stock jets nor does the main fit in the stock emulsion tube. The dynojet tube has like 2 or 3 holes in it. The stock one has like 15 or something like that.
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  #29  
Old 28th October 2017
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Best upgrade I can think of would be an EZ-just mixture screw. That way you can easily tune for conditions, like a cold morning and a hot afternoon or heavy humidity. I go out some early mornings it's 35-40F, then warms to 75-80F. That's a big swing from lean to rich.
You've always got to remember
Hotter Air ................................................. = Less Oxygen :- Richer
Colder Air ................................................. = More Oxygen :- Leaner
Higher Barometric Pressure Or Low Altitude....... = More Oxygen :- Leaner
Lower Barometric Pressure Or Higher Altitude ... = Less Oxygen :- Richer
Higher Humidity.......................................... = Less Oxygen :- Richer
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  #30  
Old 28th October 2017
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Adjusting air mixture screw has greatest effect at idle to 1/4 throttle settings, but has minimal to no effect at half to full throttle.
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