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  #1  
Old 25th April 2010
Screw Loose Dan's Avatar
Screw Loose Dan Screw Loose Dan is offline
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Default XR1200 brakes on a 1200R...lots of pics

I've been running the Brembo brakes on my 883L for a while now and love them. When I purchased the 1200R last year, I recognized there was no great need to immediately upgrade the brakes. But, I can never leave well enough alone...understand, that I don't feel there is any "need" to upgrade the 1200R stock dual brake setup. I just wanted to.

Much of this thread will be very much like my Brembo install thread. In fact, I'll probably be stealing some pictures and plagiarizing from there at times.

A few disclaimers...

WARNING/DISCLAIMER:
Quote:
I rarely look at my service manual...I probably should, but don't. I probably do some things they don't recommend or have a different approach on. Please, refer to your manual and take everything I say as rubbish. This is just what works for me, not necessarily the "proper" way to do things.

People call me Screw Loose Dan. You have to decide whether you really want to listen to someone that friends call Screw Loose. Think about it. I'm not an expert. I'm not an engineer. I'm just a guy that has figured out how to do this.
The XR1200 brakes will NOT work with wire/laced wheels. Sportytrace tried on her 1200N and the caliper would NOT fit. I doubt the Custom wheels would give enough clearance either, but haven't tried.

The actual install was rather easy. Really just a matter of unbolting parts and bolting other parts back on. If you are familiar with doing brakes (either on a bike or car), this will be a breeze. If it's the first wrench you are ever going to turn, I would recommend having someone with a little experience help you out. And if you've never worked on brake lines before...plan on having PLENTY of rags on hand and don't let the brake fluid get on anything you care about (like paint).


Parts List - Prices are current for when I bought them from online discount places (ie Zanotti, Phat Performance, and J&P). Prices obviously change...

42943-08 Caliper, Frt Lft $144
42944-08 Caliper, Frt Rt $144
42941-08 Master Cylinder Silver lever $73 (42941-10 should be the same but have a black lever as the 2010 XR's come with black levers)
41736-04 Caliper Banjo (x2) - can be reused from old setup $4 each
41737-04 Master Cylinder Banjo - probably can be reused from old setup $5
44358-00* Front Rotor, floating (x2) $96 each
41743-04 Master Cylinder crush washer (x2) $2 each
Goodridge copper crush washers 10mm - Calipers $4/box
Goodridge Ebony brake hose (measure for your handlebar/setup) ~ $55 total
Goodridge 592-03-M12CH - This is one of the few banjo bolt fittings I could find to fit the Master Cylinder. $18
Drag Spec. Brake Tee (from J&P - here) $15
Russel 1/8″ 90° male pipe fitting, AN-3 male end (from J&P here...but Goodridge and other make similar) $8
Rags...and more rags
Brake cleaner

* - The rotors are standard floating rotors for XL. You may choose from any that will fit the XL. The XR uses the same as the XL (just different patterns). The ones I listed are the Vivid Black Floating rotors for XL's. You are presumably doing this to improve your brakes, so don't be cheap and use stock rotors...get floating ones.

Tool List

(this is pretty much taken right from my Brembo thread)
9/16", 3/4", 5/16", 8mm, 10mm, 12mm sockets, T40 Torx socket, 4mm, 3/16", 1/4", 5/16" hex drives (could use allen wrenches), ratchet, 3/8", 7/16", 1/2" wrenches, Screwdrivers, loctite, vacuum pump (to bleed the brakes)



Now understand that I also swapped a fair number of other parts during this process (forks and handlebars for example). I will try to keep this thread about the brake work, but you'll see some parts change color.

What I started with this:


Before I even got started I pulled the front fender and gas tank off. While you don't need to pull the tank...mine is freshly painted - why take a chance. Takes very little time.

Use a 1/2" wrench and 1/4" allen to undo the front fender, two bolts per side. Hint: Leave bolts in place until all of the nuts are off, prevents the fender from dropping until you have both hands free.
Full view

To remove the tank, start by removing the seat (large philips). Then undo the gas line from the tank. This is like a quick disconnect air coupler, just pull it up as you pull the line out. You'll lose a couple drops, so have a rag handy.
Full view

Next pull the vent hose off and disconnect the wire harness for the tank at the frame. The vent hose just pulls off (may take some wiggling). The harness connector is usually a little tight, but simply push the release and pull apart.

Full view

Full view

Next remove the rear bolt holding the tank on, 1/2" wrench and 1/4" allen.

Full view

Next is removing the front bolt, again using a 1/2" wrench and 1/4" allen. Once you pull this bolt out, the tank is free. You will want to be ready to put it somewhere safe. Be careful at this point as it's easy to scratch the front of the tank on the triple trees.


(sorry for the ugly mug)
I usually have a towel somewhere in the corner of the garage to put the tank onto. I also use a block of wood under the rear mounting point when setting it on the ground so it isn't resting on the fuel line coupler.

Now with the tins out of the way, we can really get down to it!

My first step was to remove the old brake system. This time, I pulled the brake system off without undoing any brake lines, which means less mess!

Take the turn signal off the master cylinder (4 mm allen). Be holding the turn signal as it takes just a couple turns and the blinker will fall out of the socket.

Full view

Take the mirror off the master cylinder (1/2" wrench).

Full view

Then take the master cylinder off. Start by putting a piece of cardboard or something to slightly "squeeze" the lever. This will prevent the lever from destroying the brake switch during disassembly.

Full view
(note - this is actually the new master cylinder...same idea when installing the new one. Harley ships the new master cylinder with a piece of cork)

Loosen the two switch housing bolts (T25 torx). You probably don't need to remove them the whole way, but you can.

Full view

Full view

Next loosen the master cylinder clamp bolts (T27 torx - NOTE - this is different than the switch housing!!!). Once loose, wiggle the master cylinder free from the switch housing. Then remove the bolts completely. This leaves the master cylinder free!

Next take off the brake line clamps holding it to the triple trees. The one on the back of the triple tree is 8 mm. The one on the bottom is 3/16" (?) allen.

Full view

Full view

At this point I used a short bungee cord to hold the master cylinder out of the way while I removed the calipers.

To remove the calipers there are two 12 point bolts. This is not a special socket or anything, but sockets are sold as either 12 point or 6 point. You WILL need to use a 12 point 10 mm socket for these bolts. No way around that. But, they simply unbolt.

Full View

And the stock brakes are off!! WOOT!!!

Full view

Next you'll remove the front wheel to swap the rotors. I apparently got lazy taking pictures, so I'll insert some from my Brembo thread...

Remove the 3/4" axle nut:
Full view

Loosen the axle pinch bolt (9/16" wrench and 5/16" allen).
Full view

After this the axle just pulls right out (and spacers drop to the floor ).
Full view

With the wheel off, I removed the rotors. There are 5 T40 torx per rotor. Expect them to be very *snug*. I use a hand impact driver to help break them free. Then use a regular ratchet to remove the rest of the way.

Full view
(I found the corner of the garage a good solid place to hold the wheel in place as I banged on it.)

Full view

That's the end of disassembly!!! Time to start putting the new parts on. I don't have as many pictures as you can probably figure out how to reassemble what you took apart...or at least pictures won't help much.

Put the new rotors on the wheel. Start all the bolts by hand then snug them up in a criss-cross pattern. Torque to spec (16-24 ft-lbs).
Full view

Next put the wheel back on the bike. It helps to have the lift height so you don't need to lift the wheel much (if at all) when putting the axle back in. The small spacer goes on the side with the pinch bolt and the larger spacer goes on the side with the axle nut. You should make sure there is anti-seize compound on the axle prior to assembly. I'll post what the FSM says for tightening and aligning the axle:
Quote:
On models with dual front brakes, align calipers to brake discs.
a. Tighten axle nut to 50-55 ft-lbs (68-75 Nm).
b. Loosen axle pinch bolt nuts. (SLD - won't be tight yet!)
c. Insert 7/16 in. drill bit into hole in axle as far
as it will go.
d. Position fork leg against edge of drill bit. Contact point must have the edge of drill bit touching the edge of fork leg.
e. Tighten axle pinch screw to 21-27 ft-lbs (28.5-36.6
Nm) and withdraw drill bit.
Full view

After putting the wheel back on you will probably want to clean the rotors. Grease and brake rotors don't mix. I also re-clean everything prior to the first ride.

Next bolt the new calipers in place. Pretty straight forward, just tighten to spec (28-38 ft-lbs).

Full view

Next I mounted the new master cylinder. Loosely assemble the clamp around the bar and fit the master cylinder to the switch assembly (make sure you have the cardboard/cork in the lever). You will want to be very careful about not pinching the wires running to the switch housing. Before tightening, make sure the throttle assembly is pushed the whole way on the bar and the switch housing and master cylinder are tightly fitting together otherwise your brake light might not work. Once everything is aligned properly tighten everything back up.

Next run the brake lines. I use universal brake lines and get lengths to fit my particular bars and forks. Be aware that all 2004+ Sportster with dual calipers use a 12 mm banjo at the master cylinder. This is a TRUE 12 mm and unless marked as such most 12 mm brake parts will actually be 7/16" and will not work. Ask me how I know...

I used a brake tee fitting with a mounting hole that worked out well (thanks to ReddTigger and Rod for the help!). It also requires a 90° male pipe fitting to AN-3 fitting. Looks like this installed:
Full view

Make sure all the brake fittings are "good and tight". Then fill the brake reservoir with appropriate fluid (I use a DOT 3/4 synthetic). Bleeding brakes can be a bit time consuming. I use a suction pump and apply just a slight bit of suction to the caliper (using too much suction just seems to pull air in). Also, tapping on the lines gently seems to free air bubbles. I also bleed the brakes again after the first ride or two to make sure all the air is removed.

And I'm done!!

Full view

Full view

These brakes JUST barely fit with the stock wheels. And by "just" I mean they will likely let me know when the wheel bearings go...

Full view

A few short trips, no full-on testing yet. I ultimately want to do a comparison of the Brembo's vs. the XR's. But, it's too early to say yet. I will say from my limited riding with the XR1200 brakes, they are at least as good as the Brembo setup.
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Last edited by Screw Loose Dan; 21st February 2018 at 20:19.. Reason: Updating link to pictures
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  #2  
Old 25th April 2010
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Looks great Dan.
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  #3  
Old 25th April 2010
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Great write up, and great pics, as usual Dan!

Rep to you as soon as I can.
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  #4  
Old 25th April 2010
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Jealous!!!
Awesome write up! Great pics and instructions as always. Looking forward to hearing more about their performance over time.
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  #5  
Old 25th April 2010
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I really enjoyed reading the disclaimer. Great writeup and project.
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Last edited by rottenralph; 25th April 2010 at 04:04..
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  #6  
Old 25th April 2010
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Awesome!
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  #7  
Old 25th April 2010
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Thanks for the kind words everyone! It was a fun little project. And I suspect these brakes are going to perform superbly.
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Old 25th April 2010
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Excellent instructions and pics Dan, enjoyed your posts.
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Old 25th April 2010
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I found the XR brakes to be much more sensitive and require much less finger pressure than my Roadster brakes. Be careful about locking up the front tire.
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Another great write up dan, I pretty much used your previous one to do my dual brembo conversion. I will also be very interested to hear how these compare to the brembos. I hope they're not too much better or I might have to start surfing ebay again
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