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  #1  
Old 15th June 2018
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Lightbulb Possible ignition module going bad again and throwing timing off...

I previously had a screaming eagle ignition module that after a few years or so, when module got HOT, from engine being hot, would throw the ignition timing all out of whack and the engine would sound like a sewing machine.

Took me a LONG time to figure that one out. Issues would go away after engine cooled down, and everything would run normal. Drove me nuts for a couple years figuring that out and anyone else for that matter. I always wanted a new ignition module anyways.


When I got the Daytona Twin Tech 1005S module all those issues went away for a long time, and I finally realized what the issue really was . I am wondering if the same issue is popping up again with this cone ignition module starting to go bad getting too HOT, like the screaming eagle cone module. Or maybe I just need to get it a custom map?

I just rebuilt the engine, broke in piston rings, and she loved to ride strong at 90 passing cars etc, then after slowed down or stopped at light etc, would start to run a little funny, like overheating?

Started doing this last year riding the black hills during the sturgis rally. Would sound strange like overheating, then when got back on it, more air to cool engine, then run normal again.

Previously was the screaming eagle ignition module going bad, then would always sound like a sewing machine when got too HOT riding long distances. Always thought it was pinging, detonation, low on oil, viscosity in oil broke down etc. But it ended up simply the ignition module went bad after so many HOT engine cycles over the years and it would change the ignition timing drastically when it got passed the threshold of too HOT for the module, and electronics slowly going bad.

Any one else ever have similar issues with a hopped up engine that when got HOT, ran kind of funny, then ran normal when cool?

Wandering what the life cycle of cone ignition modules may be especially with hot exhaust pipes underneath the cone area, and so many thermal cycles.

Thanks for any feedback


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  #2  
Old 15th June 2018
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hummmm?!? my compu-fire been kicking since 1975
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Old 15th June 2018
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Originally Posted by bustert View Post
hummmm?!? my compu-fire been kicking since 1975
How hot rodded is your engine? Mine runs HOT, and has great mods. I've already been thru one screaming eagle ignition module from heat issues that went bad. I'm not sure if Daytona Twin tech 1005 cone is starting to do the same as last module though.

What model compu-fire are you running? I would like to look it up and check out the specs.

Thanks
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Old 15th June 2018
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Get yourself some cold spray - When the symptoms occur, hit the ignition control module with some cold spray and see if the symptoms go away...

Intermittent problems require that you pin down exactly when the problem occurs so that you can actually tell if the attempted solution really solves the problem or if it went away on it's own (being intermittent)...

So try to figure out exactly what circumstances exist when the problem occurs - If you can recreate the problem, then you can test various solutions to see how they affect the symptoms when you are actually having the problem...

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Old 16th June 2018
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the 74 ch has seen no mercy. yep, i got the scars to prove it. we made florida runs 1000 miles one way hardly ever dropping under 4k which on my gearing is 80mph, the thing will top out at 133mph @ 7.5k.
i did up the ponies a few years back with S&S wheels and y cams and bumped the compression a tad. hardly run her hard these days since i have the sport, still handles better than the sport though.
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  #6  
Old 16th June 2018
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Lightbulb

Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Get yourself some cold spray - When the symptoms occur, hit the ignition control module with some cold spray and see if the symptoms go away...

Intermittent problems require that you pin down exactly when the problem occurs so that you can actually tell if the attempted solution really solves the problem or if it went away on it's own (being intermittent)...

So try to figure out exactly what circumstances exist when the problem occurs - If you can recreate the problem, then you can test various solutions to see how they affect the symptoms when you are actually having the problem...

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Thanks! That is actually a great idea. I usually have water on the bike when going long distances also. Or find some small aerosol freeze spray can to put in the bag also.

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Old 17th June 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by groovemeisterus View Post
I usually have water on the bike when going long distances also.
Careful - I would NOT put water in there --- The proper cold spray will evaporate (that's how it becomes cold) and not contaminate the gear case cavity...

Use a product like this, intended for electronics:
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-.../dp/B000Z99ZCA

Careful around your fingers and hands...

Can also be used to identify heat-related coil failure...

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Old 18th June 2018
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Lightbulb

Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Careful - I would NOT put water in there --- The proper cold spray will evaporate (that's how it becomes cold) and not contaminate the gear case cavity...

Use a product like this, intended for electronics:
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-.../dp/B000Z99ZCA

Careful around your fingers and hands...

Can also be used to identify heat-related coil failure...

IXL _ ___ _____ _______ >>>> My Build & Ride Reports Are Here <<<<
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Thanks... I wouldn't spray on dials or anything, just the aluminum housing with easier access to.

:xlreocks
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Old 18th June 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Careful - I would NOT put water in there --- The proper cold spray will evaporate (that's how it becomes cold) and not contaminate the gear case cavity...

Use a product like this, intended for electronics:
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-.../dp/B000Z99ZCA

Careful around your fingers and hands...

Can also be used to identify heat-related coil failure...

IXL _ ___ _____ _______ >>>> My Build & Ride Reports Are Here <<<<
2 Relax
FREE Organized Tech Info - Check Out The XLForum Sportsterpedia
Or just take off the nose cone covers to ignition cone module would allow more are to cool it off t=without the covers holding in the heat.
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Old 3rd July 2018
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Talking Problem solved...

After my buddy fabricated a custom ignition code module cover with a big hole in it for airflow so I could get air to module with heat index of 105 in indiana... I noticed the green VOES light was NOT coming on. I got my vacuum checker out, and yep... the VOES was bad and never closing (being normally open) and NOT changing the ignition curves. SO when riding 95 MPH all was good, as soon as cruising speed, stoped, etc, is when the symptoms started, while not using the right curve for idle and normal cruising. Sorry took so long, had to order a VOES with 6 in Hg from Amazon since no Harley shop had them in stock. Go figure.

Hope this helps others. I added a video to show nose cone module, and a couple burst of throttle.



https://youtu.be/qWSpuCsHGLo
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