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  #51  
Old 26th February 2019
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rejeanprimeau rejeanprimeau is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post

Thread regarding the puck system
Why pay for a 100$ stupid puck when a simple hose clamp is all you need???

Double
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  #52  
Old 26th February 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rejeanprimeau View Post
Why pay for a 100$ stupid puck when a simple hose clamp is all you need???
Not me that's for sure.
But people do things in different ways rejean.
And that's OK as long as the end result is the same.
6 in one hand, half a dozen in the other.

Your way is not right or wrong, it's your way and I respect that.
I'm not passing judgement, I'm presenting the evidence as best I can.
If someone else wants to pay for a puck, I respect that also.
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  #53  
Old 26th February 2019
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The evidence suggest that a possible quart could be left in the sump when you add new oil.
In practice, you've run the bike for about 30 mins. before doing an oil change.
In theory, most of the solids are suspended within the oil and carried to the tank.

That doesn't mean all of the solids are in the tank.
And with the tank drain above the bottom of the tank, solids will still be present in the tank.
This will also not drain oil from the feed lines to the engine.

Removing the case plug on Evos won't work.
The Evo case drain will not drain the sump as the drain hole doesn't enter it.


Therefore, there will be a certain amount of used / old oil that will stay in the system and will mix with the new clean oil.
This will also dilute the new oil to an extent.

But using regular change intervals as suggested by the MoCo (not aftermarkets) it will not hurt your engine if you don't scavenge it.

Now this is assuming you don't have anything busted or exploded in your engine.
If so, the scavenge change (among other) would be a good start after whatever has been fixed.
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  #54  
Old 26th February 2019
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It will be so simple if a drain plug, like a L7 dry sump corvette engine, was under the engine. Drain the tank, the base then idle 15 second and add about a quart of oil.

Some Ferrari need a scavenge oil change after each ten hour of running or no more warranty. With the price of the Scrudderia engine no one argue about do or don't do it. Sportster engine are not wet sump engine and I never had problem related to lube with any of the five dry sump motorcycles I've own.

Aircraft maintenance worker will loose their license if not scavenging the oil to new when changing oil.

How many piston scuffing problem people have with H-D engine???? Only on this forum hundred of pictures can be seen.
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  #55  
Old 26th February 2019
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Yes but the problem with that is there is no way to nail down the fact that an improper oil change caused the problem.
Too many variables.... bad pump, check, low oil to begin with, air leak etc.

I revert back to cantolina's conclusion.
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  #56  
Old 26th February 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rejeanprimeau View Post
Where are the oil analysts junkie, if they start to do oil scavenge, they will be surprise and become advocates of the right way to change oil in a dry sump engine. My tech teacher taught me about doing it in 1976.

We have a dry sump system so we shall do a scavenge oil change.
The naysayer are just plain wrong.

Even Aaron agree. What else can convince you???
I did an oil analysis on my engine for approximately the second 100,000 miles. And my engine lasted for 206,000 miles and would likely have gone more had I not made a stupid mistake and let something fall into the oil tank.

If I am so wrong then so is Harley and hundreds of thousands of other owners and bike shops. If simply draining the oil is so wrong where are all the dead engines or engines blowing smoke all the time?

We can agree to disagree and that is fine. I have no problem with someone spending the extra amount of time if they wish, or changing their oil at half the recommended intervals, or anything else if it makes them happy or comfortable with their bikes.

Unfortunately I cannot post it from work because the site that hosts my photos is blocked as a file sharing site. If I remember I will do so this evening. I also have photos of the inside of my rear cylinder just before I killed the engine and I could still see the cross hatching, I will post that as well
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  #57  
Old 10th June 2019
jazzman jazzman is offline
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Hi Parrothead,
What were your oil/filter change intervals?
And oil used?
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  #58  
Old 11th June 2019
boomerguy boomerguy is offline
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I don't know what the big deal is about oil always being in the engine sump. If the oil gets changed regularly, the engine does not get damaged.
My 2 cents' worth: From what I've read in the Factory Service Manual and my personal experience:
The engine sump will always have .8 quart in it.
The total system holds 3.6 quarts.
When you change the oil, you drain what is in the tank which is usually 2.8 quarts or less if it has burned any (assuming you change it when it is hot and before it drains back into the engine sump).
The engine sump keeps .8 quarts.
You add 3.0 quarts and then "burp" the drain line by letting it drain until the air stops coming out of it. This is about a .2 quart loss, leaving about 2.8 quarts in the tank.
Add 2.8 quarts in the tank to the .8 quarts already in the engine sump and you have 3.6 quarts total in the entire system. This is the amount the Blue Bible says is correct.

Granted, you're mixing new oil with old oil but if you're like me and change it more frequently than the recommended 5K mile intervals, you always have good oil in the bike. It's not 100% new oil but it is clean and mostly new oil.

When my 2005 XL883 is at the full line when hot, it will register exactly midway between low and full when cold.

Just use good oil and keep it changed at regular intervals. Change it when it's hot so the solids are suspended in the oil -- and the maximum amount of oil is in the tank to get drained. Use a good oil filter. Change it at the same time you change the oil.

It's your bike, do what you want with it. Don't sweat the small stuff in life.
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