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  #1  
Old 10th October 2018
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Default Rigid EVO Oil Check Ball & Spring

For the oil filter mount check ball and spring, which installs first, the ball or the spring?

The Parts Catalog for '86-'90 shows the spring first, then the ball, then the oil filter adaptor fitting.
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  #2  
Old 10th October 2018
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That's what my 91 FSM shows too. I think we determined that the checkball actually builds "back pressure" in the filter and housing so the light goes off, then flows into the housing. A member on HDF had a flickering light and we determined the spring was weak, which caused insufficient "back pressure" to trip the oil light. I think it was over on HDF, but it could have been here. It was my theory about the weak spring, and when the guy replaced it the problem was solved. The oil sensor is BEFORE the check ball, not after. That was a big clue to his problem.

John
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Spring then ball for sure
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  #4  
Old 10th October 2018
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the spring is to prevent wet sumping, has zero to do with oil pressure. oil pressure is determined by the restriction in the engine. on some models, hd did have a regulator of sorts but it was not designed to block flow, only divert it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustert View Post
the spring is to prevent wet sumping, has zero to do with oil pressure. oil pressure is determined by the restriction in the engine. on some models, hd did have a regulator of sorts but it was not designed to block flow, only divert it.
Well, when the guy's engine was hot, without enough spring pressure on the ball, the oil light was coming on at idle. Replacing the spring solved the problem. Actually stretching the old spring a bit solved it, but he went and bought a new spring after we figured out what was happening. He had previously paid to have his oil pump replaced, which did not solve the oil light on when hot issue!

You can always test my theory by removing the spring, getting the engine hot and see if the oil light comes on at idle. I wish I could find the guy's post about this issue, you could decide for yourself. Since the pressure sensor is before the check ball, sufficient back pressure must be needed at hot idle to keep the light off. All I know is this solved his problem after trying everything else.

John
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustert View Post
the spring is to prevent wet sumping
This true. The spring pushes the ball to close off oil flow when the engine is not running to stop wet sumping due to gravity of the elevated oil tank.

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Harper View Post
Since the pressure sensor is before the check ball, sufficient back pressure must be needed at hot idle to keep the light off.

John
This is also true.
The back pressure also guards against a condition of some but not enough hot oil getting to the engine.
As in the case of a worn or defective pump as well as deteriorated oil viscosity etc.

The back pressure is however useless on a cold start-up when the oil is thick.

The oil pressure switch is diaphragm operated and the pressure generated by the thick oil trying to pass thru the outlet is greater.
This opens the oil switch contacts apart even though less oil is traveling into the engine at that point.
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There is enough area in the threads above the switch to collect debris and clog or restrict the switch.
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been there done that and is posted on this forum.
i took a standard spring and measured the coil bind and then did a stretch in stages and posted the increase coil bind pressures and as was expected, it increased, matter of fact, there is science that explains why. but here is an issue that you did not thing of. according to the science of it, you drastically alter the science of the coil tension rate of compression and actually shot yourself in the foot! did you really help the issue, nope! when in operation, the ball IS NOT all the way back, look at how it is installed! it is NOT in a tube so the oil must force it back to open a port, NAW, the ball is open backed so the oil slips around it and probably moves very little off seat, remember, the engine is about volume, not pressure. that said, you actually decrease closing pressure at part opening, remember, the spring is rated 7# at bind not seat.
the fact is, oil pressure is controlled by the restriction of the engine. if you reduce flow rate, you reduce pressure, why, because there is LESS oil trying to force its way through the galleries. would the oil light come on, sure, it does it with the spring/ball in there also.
also of note is if you have a gauge installed, running at idle at temp, would be around 3>5psi, not 7. if the pressure sensor is set at 3, yep, light would probably flicker, death idle is hard mistress. also think of it, if the seat was at 7, then no oil would pass but remember, the seven is bind.

Last edited by bustert; 10th October 2018 at 19:55..
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All good information. Thanks fellas. I had replaced the spring and ball with new ones in hope that it would reduce wet sumping. I shall see.
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Old 5th November 2018
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The new ball and spring did not reduce parked wet sumping. It is still about the same, at 3/4 of the tank in 2 weeks.
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