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  #21  
Old 29th February 2020
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well, metal relaxes over time so the beam wrench should be checked especially if used a lot.
i hear a lot of people say they are good but not the PROPER way to use it, sooooo, in the wrong hands, no diff that a clicker as you call it.
also, the value you are seeking determines largely what type to use.
a beam on 1500+ #/ft would be a bear to use
the same for the clicker on 10 in/lb
working on large engines, over 40 years, the clicker held up nicely but on critical fasteners, you must use one that is calibrated and yep, you can do that yourself.
on ball ring bolts, we used hydraulic wrenches and are pretty much spot on.
however, things are changing with stretch spec's. applied value plus so many degrees.
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  #22  
Old 29th February 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NLXL View Post
Interesting info. I have both. Can you tell why a clicker is the worst enemy of bolts? Is it just because people use the wrong settings or are clickers just more innacurate...?
You know man with instruction; most of them they throw the book in the garbage can. You forget to go to zero to store the clicker, later you adjust for lower torque and go at it, then wonder why you brake the bolt!!!!: d'oh

The torquing with an old beamer rely on a dial, not a click.

Why choose a tool that can cause havoc when cheaper ones are fool proof?
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  #23  
Old 29th February 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rejeanprimeau View Post
You know man with instruction; most of them they throw the book in the garbage can. You forget to go to zero to store the clicker, later you adjust for lower torque and go at it, then wonder why you brake the bolt!!!!: d'oh

The torquing with an old beamer rely on a dial, not a click.

Why choose a tool that can cause havoc when cheaper ones are fool proof?
Yeah, good point. I still have that old beamer and switched to clicker because I thought it was easier and more accurate.
[But..don't tell anyone...when I adjust it to a certain torque...I first put in in the vise to see if it actually 'clicks' before using it on the bike.... I guess I don't trust that 'click' either]
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  #24  
Old 29th February 2020
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  #25  
Old 29th February 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NLXL View Post
Yeah, good point. I still have that old beamer and switched to clicker because I thought it was easier and more accurate.
[But..don't tell anyone...when I adjust it to a certain torque...I first put in in the vise to see if it actually 'clicks' before using it on the bike.... I guess I don't trust that 'click' either]
I just got a couple of the Harbor Freight cheapies, they've always worked for me. I do the same thing, or test it on a bolt that I previously torqued to the same spec. I always store them in the original box with no tension on the spring, and once or twice a year I go to a friend that has a fancy SnapOn torque wrench tester in his shop and they're always right on the money.
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  #26  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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how about parallax error????
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  #27  
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  #28  
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Has anyone tried the digital ones yet? Do they stay in calibration and yield reliable results?
For $40 it seems like it's worth owning if it's better than a clicker type.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GLISI0...osi&th=1&psc=1

I'm a rider who does routine maintenance. I have an old craftsman beam type, an inch/lb 3/8ths and 1/4" drive and a ft/lb 3/8" clicker types of varying quality.
They are all mostly way out of calibration. Exept for the beam type, when I check them they don't give the same value twice in a row.
I move my car out of the garage vs you who have a real shop to work in so it's rarely worth the effort to do the calibration unless I'm doing something pretty serious.
Most of the time, I just go by feel unless it's a critical fastener.
Go ahead, say it.
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  #29  
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yes the piezoelectric gauge are good
however, they do not handle abuse that well and i am not talking about torquing its hitting the floor.
and yes, they can fail also.
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