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  #21  
Old 24th August 2018
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Ok i got the tool from JIMS. Drilled out the stud on bike. Ran tap through to clean the threads. When i look into the hole it seems the first half of the hole is perfect. The second deeper half looks to have no threads. What is strange to me is that the deeper half has no threads uniformly around the circumference. Looks like it was only threaded 1/2 inch deep. Rather than full depth of 1 inch.

The stud screws in all the way too with no resistance and bottoms out at full depth of 1" (HD Stud).

Should I loctite it to death with high temp loctite? I figure if the threads are screwed up I'd need to pop the head to fix it either way so may as well get some more ride time before i have to do that.

Anyone want to shed opinion?

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  #22  
Old 25th August 2018
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I wouldn't loctite it, the heat will seal the stud in there. That extra space behind the threads, IMO, is so you can adjust how far in or out you want the stud and leaves space for a heli-coil if the stud breaks (just an educated guess).
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  #23  
Old 25th August 2018
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Very interesting info on technical use of studs, you learn something new every day.

Has anyone got a spare cyl' head kicking around to see if this space at the back of the threads is normal?
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  #24  
Old 25th August 2018
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Seems like the only thing stopping you from using the next size larger studs would be getting a wrench or socket on the nuts to tighten them, the way the exhaust flanges are constructed on a Harley. Has anyone every tried drilling and tapping the holes out to the next size that gives the threads a full bite. Seems to be plenty of meat in the head to go over-size on the holes. I never stripped any out, so it is just speculation. I have replaced bolts and studs in other equipment with the next next larger size. Using the drill and taps charts you could go to the next larger in either metric or SAE to get a good thread and it should solve the problem if the threads are damaged beyond any possibility of repairing them.

Using a special stud with the inner threads larger and the same stock outer might also be a possibility.
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  #25  
Old 27th August 2018
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Default Interference Threads Hold The Exhaust Stud In Place

Quote:
Originally Posted by Graywolf View Post
Seems like the only thing stopping you from using the next size larger studs would be getting a wrench or socket on the nuts to tighten them, the way the exhaust flanges are constructed on a Harley. Has anyone every tried drilling and tapping the holes out to the next size that gives the threads a full bite. Seems to be plenty of meat in the head to go over-size on the holes. I never stripped any out, so it is just speculation. I have replaced bolts and studs in other equipment with the next next larger size. Using the drill and taps charts you could go to the next larger in either metric or SAE to get a good thread and it should solve the problem if the threads are damaged beyond any possibility of repairing them.

Using a special stud with the inner threads larger and the same stock outer might also be a possibility.
Harley's interference threads hold the stud in place not loctite.
When I buggered up the hole a threaded insert was installed. That way the stock studs would fit.
Suggest making changes only where necessary. Bigger studs could cause other problems like fitting exhaust flanges to the head.
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  #26  
Old 28th August 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo Sporty 48 View Post
Harley's interference threads hold the stud in place not loctite.
When I buggered up the hole a threaded insert was installed. That way the stock studs would fit.
Suggest making changes only where necessary. Bigger studs could cause other problems like fitting exhaust flanges to the head.
I wish to restate that when I attempted to install the new harley branded stud, the stud did not fight or 'Interfere' on its way all the way to the bottom out depth of 1". This is why I am considering the use of high temp loctite here for 2 reasons:
0
Firstly, to reduce the torque exerted on he aluminum threads (which clearly have been reduced by the drilling) by increasing the surface contact area with the loctite. Stressing the aluminum more evenly when torquing down the exhaust flange.

Secondly, my intention is to use an interference threaded nut on the stud. I have used one before to replace a lost exhaust nut on this bike and they don't require much torque to move and they set in place solidly. In fact the other stud on this cylinder was using that interference nut and it had not moved a degree and came off W/O any trouble. Using these as replacements will reduce the required torque for the exhaust flanges to stay in place.

Lastly, since the threads are apparently reduced anyway, it will likely require an insert installed no matter what. Anything I do will just be delaying the inevitable. If it works then it works. On the other hand if it does not work and worst case the threads strip out then it was getting new threads anyway. Nothing to lose as I see it.

The odds of it working with these conditions are in my favor and personally i do not view any of it as an inconvenience to wait on the insert. To me i see it as getting the most out of it before necessary repairs.

Like going out and burning up a set of tires you know you are going to replace in a couple of days.

Does anyone agree/disagree with this line of thought?

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  #27  
Old 28th September 2018
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Installed the new stud with plenty of loctite 271. Marked the head of the stud to monitor it in case it moved. Replaced the harley nuts with a locking nut by the brand JetNuts. High temp and corrosion resistant. Torqued the flanges down evenly and have ridden ~300 miles without any movement at all.
I recommend these jet nuts and will probably use these in any future builds of mine

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  #28  
Old 2nd October 2018
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If it moves I'd order some higher temp locking adhesive online.

Even if you eventually use an insert, it's worth remembering even interference fit threads don't exclude all locking compound any more than an interference fit sleeve. Anaerobic locking compounds are used for both. Industry doesn't use them without reason or testing.

https://www.assemblymag.com/articles...erference-fits

I don't install threaded fasteners dry in aluminum because either locking adhesives or anti-seize exclude moisture which causes corrosion and fastener seizure. I've been wrenching since 1978 and never stripped pr wrung off a fastener I installed with either.

I use industry references and assume nothing. Chemistry is constantly advancing the state of the art. It's a great time to be a mechanic.
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