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  #11  
Old 24th March 2020
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Steve9 Steve9 is offline
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Default 17-7

Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Be careful where you choose to use Stainless Steel Bolts

================================================== ==
"A common question is whether stainless steel is stronger that a grade 5 or grade 8 bolt. Stainless commonly comes in grades 18.8 (304) or T316. Stainless steel bolts are rated for corrosion resistance. Bolt strength is rated in PSI (pounds per square inch). A stainless steel bolt has the same PSI rating as a grade 5 bolt (125,000 PSI). A grade 8 bolt has a stronger rating with a PSI of 150,000."
https://www.nutsandbolts.com/v10-sta...eel-grade.html

================================================== ==
"Stainless steel is an alloy of low carbon steel and chromium for enhanced corrosion characteristics. Stainless steel is highly corrosion resistant for the price. Because the anti-corrosive properties are inherent to the metal, it will not lose this resistance if scratched during installation or use.

It is a common misconception that stainless steel is stronger than regular steel. In fact, due to their low carbon content, many stainless steel alloys cannot be hardened through heat treatment. Therefore, when compared to regular steel, the stainless alloys used in bolts are slightly stronger than an un-hardened (grade 2) steel but significantly weaker than hardened steel fasteners. Unless great care is taken, stainless fasteners are susceptible to seizing up during installation, a phenomenon known as galling.

Most stainless steel fasteners are much less magnetic than regular steel fasteners though some grades will be slightly magnetic.

Stainless 18-8 - 18-8 refers to any stainless steel containing approximately 18% chromium and 8% nickel. This is the most common stainless designation for hardware. For information on 18-8 stainless steel material properties see our Material Grade Identification and Properties Chart.

Stainless 316 - A highly corrosion resistant grade of stainless steel. Ideal in salt water and chlorine environments. More expensive than 18-8.

Stainless 410 - A stainless alloy that is harder than 18-8 stainless steel, but not as resistant to corrosion."
https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...materials.aspx

================================================== ==
I'm sure the better grades of SS are quite expensive:
See: 410-HT & 416-HT Martensitic Stainless Steel-Hardened and Tempered
https://www.americanfastener.com/mec...ous-fasteners/

================================================== ==

To Compare Steel Fasteners, see here:
https://www.americanfastener.com/ast...teel-fasteners
================================================== ==


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Now we have 17-7, 17-4 which when purchased in condition C (hard) may be heat treated up to Rockwell 50's. That's mother-in-law hard

But really no application for our stuff. Very expensive
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  #12  
Old 24th March 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tincan View Post
I found a source of the highest quality stainless steel hardware. I purchased rotor hardware as well as a primary side screw kit and received them today. I am super satisfied with my order. These are not the fancy ass polished crap made in India or shit Colony chrome crap. I can't see paying for ARP unless its a critical part but these will never rust like chromed screws and bolts eventually do and are far superior to the stock harley parts.
http://vulcanworks.net
The company is in Manchester NH. I spoke on the phone with Joe who was most helpful.
Thanks for the site.

I am thinking about getting a 34 tooth sprocket to eliminate the compensator on my dyna. I haven't ordered because I don't want to get chinametal!

These people make quality stuff, reckon I found a source!
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  #13  
Old 24th March 2020
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I used diamond engineering bolts on my bike. I used them on my primary cover, cam cover, head bolts, rocker box cover, brake calipers, upper motor mounts, the bolts for my switch housings, etc. I tried using one of there bolts for my upper shock but it ended up bending so I switched that out for a better bolt.
I can't find it now but they used to have kits for sportsters. I see one for 2005 bikes but not solid mounts.
When I ordered all the nuts, bolts and washers I ordered I ended up making a custom order of the parts I wanted rather than buy there kits. I think one of the items I did buy was a kit but the rest were all ordered in the amounts and styles I wanted because I ordered some Allen head bolts, a few of there 10 point bolts.
I also had them make me some custom spacers for my shocks since I use the ricor shocks and they are wider than my old progressive shocks. But I had problems with there spacers because they could not cut 2 the same size to save there lives. Every spacer was a different size. I called and they sent new ones and they came different sizes again. After the third time I just used the 2 that were the closest in size that I needed. The company was easy to deal with and was very quick to have new ones sent free of charge.

https://www.depss.com/
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Last edited by mikeLI_77; 24th March 2020 at 14:56..
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  #14  
Old 24th March 2020
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Another thing I learned (the hard way) recently about SS hardware is to NOT use power tools with SS nyloc nuts, galling is very likely and the SS parts can lock up so hard that the only option is to cut or break them...using hand tools avoids this.

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...d-galling.aspx

https://www.fastenal.com/content/fed...%20Galling.pdf
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  #15  
Old 24th March 2020
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'Tincan' was concerned enough to send me a couple PMs about my posting. He suggested I was dissing this company, their products and their reputation. That I was putting him down for trying to help people. He said he and the owner were talking about this thread.

I'll leave his vulgarity out of the picture, but simply say...

Nothing I posted challenged the reputation of this company or the quality of their products. I didn't even mention this company or its products. I don't know the company, the owner or the quality of their products.

Many people have a misconception about Stainless Steel hardware and my post was providing sources where others could evaluate the qualities of Stainless Steel hardware versus typical grade-5 or grade-8 Steel hardware. It's not appropriate for all applications.


I'll keep my assessment of Tincan to myself.


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  #16  
Old 25th March 2020
John Harper John Harper is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott View Post
Don't forget your anti-seize when using stainless fasteners.
+1

John
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  #17  
Old 25th March 2020
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Any same metals will gall if friction produces heat, yes stainless is pronounced and Ti is verboten. Lube your screws gents.
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  #18  
Old 25th March 2020
Tomcatt Tomcatt is offline
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Stainless on stainless can be a problem. Particularly cheaper stuff that isn't well hardened. Simple "fix" is to use dissimilar alloys, like a 309 bolt with a 316 nut or the reverse or a carbon steel / stainless pairing. On industrial piping we used carbon steel nuts on 316 bolts a lot. The flanges could be unbolted easily (instead of using an air-arc) or the nuts easily replaced if they were disintegrating.

I would do the same on collector flange fasteners. 309 bolts with carbon steel nuts. Easy to deal with going back and forth thru mufflers or running collectors.
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  #19  
Old 27th March 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomcatt View Post
Stainless on stainless can be a problem. Particularly cheaper stuff that isn't well hardened. Simple "fix" is to use dissimilar alloys, like a 309 bolt with a 316 nut or the reverse or a carbon steel / stainless pairing. On industrial piping we used carbon steel nuts on 316 bolts a lot. The flanges could be unbolted easily (instead of using an air-arc) or the nuts easily replaced if they were disintegrating.

I would do the same on collector flange fasteners. 309 bolts with carbon steel nuts. Easy to deal with going back and forth thru mufflers or running collectors.
Depends on environment, good idea in salt free condition...marine or close to coast, not so much due to galvanic action.
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  #20  
Old 3rd April 2020
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Originally Posted by Ireeman View Post
17-4 is medical grade, not bad in marine and rather strong.
17-4, 17-7 may be heat treated up to 50+ rockwell "C"

none of the 300 series, 304, 316 etc, can be hardened.

All the 400 series rusts just like mild steel

I made a bunch of surgical prototypes last year and we tried 301 high yield which has the highest ksi of any cold-worked stainless, ended up with 17-7 machined condition C, treated to rockwell 53. Gave us the most memory.

These were for a knee-replacement system. Probably overkill for our purposes
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