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  #11  
Old 20th November 2009
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IronHead78 IronHead78 is offline
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This is really good and will be very helpful, your pictures are great. There always seems to be someone with transmission questions and this should be a great tool. Thank You
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  #12  
Old 20th November 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thefrenchowl View Post
Hi scottericsonon,

Thanks for the photo sequence...

I would just add, when you check your dogs clearances, it's not just good enough if they are within tolerances, .028 to .058, they have to be equalized as well.

So all the spacings should be more or less the same. Don't ride with some at .028 and others at .058

"Equality" is achieved in a variety of ways depending where are your lows and highs: Wider or thinner selector forks (they use to sell them with +.020 and -.020), inserting or deleting the special washers between whole shifter assembly and trap door.

Patrick
patrick.yes i knew that....i also have them set at the low side of the specs for more dog engagement.........

asi said i'm just winging this and i KNOW theres stuff i did but missed it in my captions
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  #13  
Old 20th November 2009
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Excellent post! I'll be pulling my '78's tranny this winter to fix an intermittent 2nd gear slippage so this tutorial is very timely. Thanks for the hard work.

Eric
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  #14  
Old 20th November 2009
scottericsonon scottericsonon is offline
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eric...does it "pop out" under load? and then go back in when you get off of the throttle???

mine was doing the smae thing except in 4th.....

check the gear dogs for wear....maybe a bent shift fork too
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  #15  
Old 20th November 2009
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oh yeah to answer questions about the radio on my desk..........

its a kenwood TS-940Sat ham radio......
i hold an amateur radio license with the call sign of W3ODD
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  #16  
Old 20th November 2009
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well here we are with the last installment of the trans already......

getting the shifter on (i need to pull the peg out of my old one)



get your drive chain around the sprocket loose....yeah ou can wait and install the cover first but y make more work for yourself??



get the cover on swearing at yourself for getting fingerprints all over it



get the bolts in and try to clean up the cover a little bit



kickstarter spring... just muscle it on....i grabbed the outer end with a pair of vice.grips and the really helped alot...you want that spring under a little tension



get the kickstarter on with the pinch bolt



get the chain around your rear sprocket and hook your master link with the CLOSED ROUNDED end of the master IN THE DIRECTION OF TRAVEL.....

that means if you hooked it on the bottom side of the sprocket the CLOSED END should be towards the REAR of the motorcycle!! got it??



adjust your chain etc.....i shouldnt have to tell you how to do this...look in your manual

grab your coffee and go back over to the left side of the motorcycle

get your 2 threaded 1/4 rods that you used in your clutch compressor and put them in the cases like this



slip your new gasket over them like this



oh before i forget ..........get your clutch cable threaded back into your primary cover and hook it up



slip your primary cover over your 2 threaded rods making sure you leave a tiny gap.....in other words dont seat it all the way

get all your screws started using the gap to see that they go thru the gasket correctly..... once they are all started go ahead and GENTLY tap on the primary cover with the heel of your hand to seat it.....once it's seated snug up a couple screws and then replace the threaded rod with the proper screws.....

tighten these all up using a criss-cross kinda pattern so as to not warp the primary cover



adjust your clutch per the FSM fill her up with oil put your footpegs and pipes back on and go bang some gears! youre done!!

actually i'd take it pretty easy on the trans for your first couple rides and make sure i went back and retightened a handfull of bolts after a few hot/cold cycles of the motor

i hope you found this thread both entertaining and informative........

i know i sure had a blast doing it as well as learning alot

maybe it will inspire some of you to write a little something about your own project

now get out there and enjoy your ironhead whether you're going out for a ride...turning some wrenches.....planning some future mods or just daydreaming about past rides!!
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  #17  
Old 21st November 2009
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i put new main and countershaft bearings in my trapdoor so i could reuse it so i know everything will line up with my case.....

Did you measure the case race ? Or just go with new stock size rollers ?

And did I read somewhere that it's a good idea to hone the case race if you install a new m/s trap door bearing or is it only if you remove/replace the case race that it needs to be honed ?
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  #18  
Old 21st November 2009
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I've only pulled apart 3 trannies but everyone of them had a clearance problem between low and 3rd on the countershaft. The bushing in the low gear wears and it becomes impossible to shim it out...plus, as you shim it you push it out towards the case which causes another clearance problem.

I know trap doors have to be fit to cases if they are not already matched. An they say you have to hone the race when instaliing a new trans but I am unsure why or how. Maybe someone could educate some of us on this....???
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  #19  
Old 21st November 2009
scottericsonon scottericsonon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrous Head View Post
i put new main and countershaft bearings in my trapdoor so i could reuse it so i know everything will line up with my case.....

Did you measure the case race ? Or just go with new stock size rollers ?

And did I read somewhere that it's a good idea to hone the case race if you install a new m/s trap door bearing or is it only if you remove/replace the case race that it needs to be honed ?
we measured my old rollers and found them to be just a HAIR under standard size .....so to accommodate for wear i figured they were stock so i just got a set of standard size ones..


according to my indy you SHOULD hone the cases IF you replace the trapdoor......if you reuse your door it should be good to go.....thats why i swapped everything onto my door.........

they DO make a 500 dollar tool that your'e SUPPOSED to hone your case with if you use a new trap.i think that's where the O/S rollers cme into play

ferger.....buy new C/S low gear washers.... as well as the washer that sits between low and the bearing in the case

they make different thickness ones....

get your low gear spacing right with those washers and then when you install trans use the variable C/S washer to get your endplay in line
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  #20  
Old 22nd November 2009
scottericsonon scottericsonon is offline
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WOO HOO!!!!!!!!!!!!

SUCCESS!!!


got everything wrapped up and was able to get the bike out for a bit today

thing shifts like a dream with that new trans..... low effort and a nice solid "SNICK" into each gear......

the shifter "throw" feels a bit far but it might just be that my right ankle isn't used to shifting anymore(i had got rid of the funky 1975 "crossover" and went back to right side shift while i had it apart)........i'll pick it back up fairly rapidly.........i only tried to shift with the brake 2 or 3 times in the 60 or so miles i rode today

got the clutch spot on the first shot so im pretty pleased with that...no leaks or anything......

still need to get a rear brake light switch going (i rarely use the rear brake so that's not REAL important but it's not something i want to put off for very long either)

i already figured out how i'm gonna do it but i need to get to the hardware store for a stainless Ubolt

next project will be flush and fill/bleed on the front brake as well as installing my new ceramic pads..........

scott
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