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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #11  
Old 19th August 2018
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Front runs leaner = runs hotter, or maybe if you like, rear runs richer = runs cooler.
.....Davi.
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  #12  
Old 19th August 2018
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Yes Davie has it, front always runs leaner and is lighter than rear. Air flow dynamics and path of least resistance cause this.
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  #13  
Old 19th August 2018
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The difference between the front and rear is more determined by how bad the points cam wobbles.

Plug color is no longer relevant as today's fuel will not color the plug unless is is way rich. A light grey shadow of ash is all you should see when the mix is right.

Another thing that can affect the balance between the cylinders is the exhaust. Many systems shorten the rear pipe or. 2-1 that does not have a flow enhancing merge will reduce the VE of the rear cylinder.

They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm hard headed
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  #14  
Old 19th August 2018
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Well on my 74 XLCH no matter how good I have the points set are valves adjusted.I found that running a hotter plug in rear fixed my problem.
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  #15  
Old 21st August 2018
smac74 smac74 is offline
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I literally just put a hotter plug in my rear jug 'cause my rear plug keeps fouling. I was about to post a question about it all here until I read this post, but I'll just hop in here. My question is how hot a plug are you guys running? I read in the FSM that a 3, 4, or 5 should be used, 5 being the most practical. I've been running a Champion H8C as was recommended by my local guy (I forget why he recommended them now) and my plugs are dark brown in the front and sooty black in the rear. It seems as though my rear cylinder keeps fouling and I'm just trying to figure out why. I just replaced the rear with a NGK B6L and took it for a 30 minute scoot. I'll have to check tomorrow to see what the plugs look like.
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  #16  
Old 21st August 2018
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I run the same in both and deal with it. They can be swapped as necessary. The nickel plated electrode helps a magneto out a bit. Modern 4316 or the old solid nickel ones DD recommends. IIRC, ATM 42?? Will have to check my stash to seem...
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  #17  
Old 21st August 2018
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AT 42 like these

https://www.ebay.com/i/192610631176?chn=ps
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  #18  
Old 21st August 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smac74 View Post
I literally just put a hotter plug in my rear jug 'cause my rear plug keeps fouling. I was about to post a question about it all here until I read this post, but I'll just hop in here. My question is how hot a plug are you guys running? I read in the FSM that a 3, 4, or 5 should be used, 5 being the most practical. I've been running a Champion H8C as was recommended by my local guy (I forget why he recommended them now) and my plugs are dark brown in the front and sooty black in the rear. It seems as though my rear cylinder keeps fouling and I'm just trying to figure out why. I just replaced the rear with a NGK B6L and took it for a 30 minute scoot. I'll have to check tomorrow to see what the plugs look like.
i've been running B6Ls in my bike too for a long time, and just recently tried a B4L (one step hotter) in the rear cylinder to see what difference it would make in the carbon fouling i was getting with the rear cyl. seems to have worked. then i changed my plug wires and that also made a noticeable improvement above what the hotter plug did.
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