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  #1  
Old 6 Days Ago
class of 82 class of 82 is online now
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Default wiring-VOES-delete?

hey Guys, while the bike is in shop for the tranny install.

I have some ?s on the wiring and a IGN. unit that has VOES wire?

this bike is a piece it together project and the headlight bucket/main harness/ hand controls/key/circuit breakers/Gen/oil wires/starter/brake switch/tail light wire.

all seem to be in great shape/little stiff and exact copy of my 82 sporty xlh, super find for 40$ & excellent shape for 40yrs old. BUT- i did not get a Ign. module with it. another cheap 82-3ish harness that was cut up a little here and there had a Ign. module but has an extra wire that my 82 module does not have. I ASSume this is the VOES wire from looking at wire layout in the book.

my understanding is the timing is retard until the VOES gets VAC and then module advances the timing.

1) Do I need to have the VOES because the module has the wire for it to run correctly?
2) can the VOES be bypassed by grounding the wire and the module work correctly without the VOES switch?
3)should I source another module that does not use a VOES switch over a bypass?

another thing on the list is duel plugging the heads.

when wiring the coils, do I wire one up and use jumpers to the other coil?

my Accel super coil fire both plugs each time so jumping over to a 2nd coil all 4 fire at same time correct?

TIA
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VOES is like a vacuum advance, it is a good thing on a street bike. Easier starting better economy.

Dual plugged it will not need as much spark timing.

You need a manual for your ignition to see what coil setup you should use and how to wire it.

They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm hard headed
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Here's the Sportsterpedia section on aftermarket Ignitions:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...k:ref:engctl01

And here's the section on the VOES:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...lectric_switch
(This is in the EVO section, but it explains the VOES & applies to Ironheads as well)


A lot of guys buy the Ultima Ignition. It's less expensive than the Dyna 2000i but has similar capabilities - But the built in curves are different between the two. They are both capable of being programmed with custom timing curves to match the needs of your engine.

They are both nosecone igntions, meaning the ignition electronics are built onto the sensor plate that mounts behind the timing cover.

In this case, either one is capable of dual-fire (wasted spark) or single-fire (separate front & rear firing). In most cases, you can use one dual-fire coil to fire both plugs of each dual-plugged heads. In the single-fire situation, each of those coils would be fired separate by a wire from the ignition module. In a dual-fire configuration, both of those coils would be fired together, every time either one needed a spark. That would use only one wire from the ignition module.

Most guys prefer single-fire when it's available. It's not a power boost (most times) but it can provide a smoother idle.

Both units are setup to use the VOES.

There are other options (see the link above), but these are very popular and relatively simple to install.


As Rick mentioned, the VOES helps idle & cruise situations, where the engine spends the most time. It adds timing in these situations (plenty of vacuum) but drops back the timing when you crack open the throttle for acceleration (vacuum drops).


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thank you for those links. a lot to adsorb so a couple re-reads needed for homework.

tremendous help as i am not computer friendly..I was told that a computer is only as smart as the user. I have a pretty dumb computer.

what I did catch first read and will have a look see again is I need to confirm the wire I am talking about is the Violet color wire in the write up.

the project engine has had the cam cover off for bushing work/cams in-timed/ cover on and Ign. cup installed with plate still unbolted.

that is on top of the list when it returns from the shop.

I will need to study up on the how to set static timing and lock the plate down. then finish up coils & VOES issue.
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I HAD an Ultima single fire ignition for2 years. Worked great AFTER I reprogrammed it for an Ironhead advance curve of full advance at 2000 rpm. That key work, HAD . . . Damn Dyna knockoff crapped out. NONE of the preset advance adjustments were actually right, they are programmed for the EVO engines. So I'm back to hi tech basics. Dyna S dual fire system (Hall Effect electronic trigger) with OEM breaker points advance unit. Spark advance curve is just like it came from the MoCo. NO VOES. FYI - Dyna S dual fire unit (no coil) is around $100. A premium advance unit is around $75. Easy wiring it, white to power side of coil and blue wire to the other side.
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A Dyna S is not an electronic ignition, it is a points replacement system. It has no smarts and I would not pay half of what they are asking for it. The only thing good about it is that it is stump stupid.

No timing control
No current limiting
No vacuum advance - this adds load sensing
Will not run high output coils

A Dyna S should not be allowed to call itself an electronic ignition. *Spit!*

A failed Dyna S caused a melted piston for me, so I REFUSE to even consider using one. Trash........


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