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4th June 2009
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Senior Chief Master Mechanic
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 990 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200C Sportster/Buell Year: 2001 Other Motorcycle Model: Fairlane 500 Other Motorcycle Year: 1964
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When to replace brake pads?
The rear brake on my '01 1200C has been squeeking on and off for the past couple of months. I was wondering - how do you know when it's time to replace the pads? Is this my Sportster's way of telling me it's time?
The funny thing is that the brakes were serviced by a BMW guy in town before I purchased the bike from my father in law about a year and a half ago. Sounds like it's too soon for another service...
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4th June 2009
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Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 4,951 Sportster/Buell Model: XL 883 Sportster/Buell Year: 2007 Other Motorcycle Model: BMW R1150R Other Motorcycle Year: 2004
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How many miles and what is your riding style? Me, I replace the pads every 8k. I'm a heavy braker 
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aka - 'Bubba' of the Hells Beerguts MC
When we ask for advice, we are usually looking for an accomplice.
Marquis de la Grange (1639 - 1692)
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4th June 2009
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Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
Posts: 5,074 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200C Sportster/Buell Year: 2006
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Just because a bike has been serviced doesn't mean that the brake pads were changed. A year and a half ago they were probably fine. If they are squealing, it's most likely time to put new ones one. FSM spec is to change the brake pads when there is 1.02mm or less left on the pad itself (that's about .040 inches).
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Lenster's 1250 2006 XL1250C, Hammer Crush Heads, 15 Degree Pistons, 10.5:1 CR, S&S Roller Rockers, Fixed Length Pushrods, Jim's Powerglide II Hydraulic Lifters, RedShift 585 Cams, Energy 1 Clutch w/ 15% Stronger Spring, Hammer Performance Billet Intake Manifold, Mikuni HSR 45 (25 Pilot, 157.5 Main, 96 Needle 2nd Clip from top, Y6 Needle Jet), Offset Crush AC, Cobra Power Pro HP 2:1 Exhaust and a Daytona Twin Tec TC88A with a Kickass Map by Rico 05R.
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4th June 2009
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Senior Chief Master Mechanic
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 990 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200C Sportster/Buell Year: 2001 Other Motorcycle Model: Fairlane 500 Other Motorcycle Year: 1964
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Thanks guys.
I ride mainly in-city on a daily basis, meaning I spend a lot of time doing the stop and go thing. Get up to 2nd gear, stop. Get up to 3rd gear, stop. If I'm lucky once or twice on the way to work, get up to 4th gear, stop.
How do you check the thickness of the pad? Can you just hold up a ruler to the pad while it's on the bike? I'm having trouble picturing everything back there. I want to do the work myself so I just want to be sure I'm doing it right!
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4th June 2009
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Senior Chief Know It All
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Stumptown
Posts: 807 Sportster/Buell Model: 1200R Sportster/Buell Year: 2007 Sportster/Buell Model #2: Wouldn't that be nice! Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1957 Other Motorcycle Model: Kawasaki Concours 14 Other Motorcycle Year: 2014
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Aim a flashlight in there, and look between the pad's backing plate and the disc. You'll see a smaller, thin bit of material in there. You can eyeball .04" OK; if in doubt, you can pull the pads out for a look, then measure with a caliper. If they're fine, and you don't like the squeaking, there are a couple products out there to stop it. One is a high-temp sticky stuff, the other is high-temp brake grease. Both form a tiny cushion between the caliper piston and the pad.
I have 16K on my originals; they look to be 1/2 gone, maybe more. I'm a gentle braker who rides mainly in the country.
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4th June 2009
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Thx for the help, jackass
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Posts: 5,274 Sportster/Buell Model: XL 883 > SE 1200 Sportster/Buell Year: 2006 Sportster/Buell Model #2: 1200 XLH Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1999
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Nearly 17k on my originals. Front is maybe half gone; rear is maybe 60-70% gone. Still lots of miles left. 
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"Assuming you know how I feel about the Constitution just makes you look stupid."
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4th June 2009
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Flat Track Champion
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Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 623 Sportster/Buell Model: Sportsters Sportster/Buell Year: 1996
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Pad Replacement
I can't quite bring myself to let the pads wear down to the 1/16" the book allows. Logic says it's okay. The little hairs on the back of my neck say otherwise. When they get much under 1/8th inch I replace them.
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4th June 2009
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Senior Chief Master Mechanic
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 990 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200C Sportster/Buell Year: 2001 Other Motorcycle Model: Fairlane 500 Other Motorcycle Year: 1964
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Wow, if you guys are running 16-17k with only about half wear, I should definitely not be needing to replace my pads with 6k on them (if they were actually replaced when they were serviced - need to find that out).
MacAttack, who makes those "anti-squeak" products? If they form a cushion between the piston and the pad, does that mean I will need to do brake dissection to get the stuff in there? I have a service manual, but I've never done brake work before. It worries me a little just because of how important it is to stop!
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4th June 2009
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Master Mechanic
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Marshalltown, IA
Posts: 284 Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200 Sportster/Buell Year: 1998 Sportster/Buell Model #2: XB12XT (Ulysses Touring) Sportster/Buell Year #2: 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperTed
Wow, if you guys are running 16-17k with only about half wear, I should definitely not be needing to replace my pads with 6k on them (if they were actually replaced when they were serviced - need to find that out).
MacAttack, who makes those "anti-squeak" products? If they form a cushion between the piston and the pad, does that mean I will need to do brake dissection to get the stuff in there? I have a service manual, but I've never done brake work before. It worries me a little just because of how important it is to stop!
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Don't be afraid to take the caliper off to look at the pads, it's pretty simple. It's the disassembly of the caliper itself that is pretty involved.
for the front, You just take out the mounting pin and bolt and slip the caliper off the disc. for the rear one, remove the pins, and push the caliper towards the wheel to push the piston in to the caliper, and it should slip off as well. the front pads stay in the caliper and the rear ones will stay by the disc, because there is a retaining clip.
you probably will want to lubricate the pins the caliper floats on anyway, so the pads don't end up looking like this. (I am just now having this problem)
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Mods:Forcewinder XR, V&H Straightshots (wrapped), Keihin CV40 w/45 Pilot, 170 Main, N65C w/1 shim, SE ignition module, Front turn signals on the forks, Rear signals on license plate bracket, Drag bars w/~4" pullback risers, Xena's Speedometer mounting mod (Thread #3883), Mustang Seat, Removable windshield, Forward controls, Road King Rear shocks
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4th June 2009
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Assistant Administrator
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: South Shore, Massachusetts
Posts: 10,221 Sportster/Buell Model: 1212 conversion/497 cams Sportster/Buell Year: 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by argentcorvid
Don't be afraid to take the caliper
off to look at the pads, it's pretty simple. It's the disassembly
of the caliper itself that is pretty involved.
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It's not necessary to remove the caliper to inspect or replace the pads.
Replaced mine last summer following the service manual. Was fairly
simple imo and I had never done them before. |
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