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  #1  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
sltm1 sltm1 is offline
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Default Manifold Leaks Gone !!!!

I had some studder coming off idle after rebuilding the carb and the general consensus was a manifold leak. Changed them, (runs smooth now), they were the O-ring type as opposed to the vacuum cleaner like belts that the manual stated....might be another of those 79 Roadster anomalies. There was no info on the easiest way to do it so I took longer that it should, for any other newbies, here's the easy way.
1. Remove the choke wire, then the air filter, throttle cable, gas and overflow lines from the carb, then the "cow-bell and ignition on the opposite side, zip tie the cowbell and ignition rack off out of the way.
2. Now that you can see them, loosen the nuts holding the carb in place. When removing the last nut, make sure you're holding onto the carb so I doesn't bounce along the concrete. Time for a beer !
3. Using a long"T" handle allen wrench remove the manifold collars one at a time then remove the "Y" connector.
4. Take the o-rings and after putting just a bit of grease on the carb side only on the step where the o-rings will seat on the "Y" fitting, not on the jug side......with grease, less is more. Force them on to the collar step above where they will be seated, now you don't have to fuss with trying to get them both in place to set the collars. Put the "Y" in place and roll the o-rings on to the step provided for them.
Note: The collars on mine have the screw fittings off to one side, make sure that when you put them back on with the wide side of the bronze band next to the jug head.
5. Gently put the collars back on and snug down when both are in place. Time for another beer !
6. Put everything back together in reverse order. A shot of grain alcohol and a beer is in order now !!!
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  #2  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sltm1 View Post
....might be another of those 79 Roadster anomalies.
more likely someone put early style heads on your bike.
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  #3  
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Default

i use fiberglass high temp oven tape on the manifold on top of the o-rings, once heat set, absolutely zero leaks, now it is a bear to go back in, requires a lot of elbow grease to remove tape residue, but hey, did i say, ZERO leaks!~!@
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cazz1000 cazz1000 is offline
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Default

use the good aircraft clamps,, I had leakes on my rear cyln every year for 20 yrs,, my original head bolts ,, would not take the torqe no more ,, stupid me ,, change to colony head bolts,,,,,,shank on colony thicker ,, cad plated,,,compared the to the old,, head bolts with a mic,, some of them were 3mm out compared the new ones
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Iron Mike Iron Mike is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cazz1000 View Post
use the good aircraft clamps,, I had leakes on my rear cyln every year for 20 yrs,, my original head bolts ,, would not take the torqe no more ,, stupid me ,, change to colony head bolts,,,,,,shank on colony thicker ,, cad plated,,,compared the to the old,, head bolts with a mic,, some of them were 3mm out compared the new ones
what???
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needspeed needspeed is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doodah man View Post
more likely someone put early style heads on your bike.

(all 79 models had oring heads and oring manis but were fitted with rubber bands from factory).

Per Dr.Dick

http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.p...98&postcount=6
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by needspeed View Post
(all 79 models had oring heads and oring manis but were fitted with rubber bands from factory).

Per Dr.Dick

http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.p...98&postcount=6
Oh oops, could’ve sworn rubber band heads/manis started 79.
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  #8  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
sltm1 sltm1 is offline
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Default

The collars will not fit over the rubber bands nor will they fit in the channel, they would have to be placed on the pipes above the channel. It'd be like a radiator hose fitment. So it's a split decision between Doodah and Dr.Dick. Like I said, the collars are bronze, does that help to date the manifolds?
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  #9  
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gpydeski gpydeski is offline
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Default

I got a great tip about zip tying the manifold to socket extention rod on the primary side of the engine from one jug to the other, parallel to the floor. With the o rings rolled onto the manifold pop them in until they seat. Tighten the zips down and it aint going any where. Then put your clamps on you are good to go.
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Default

One of my bikes, I think the 77 had orings and bands on it when I got it. It worked till it didn't....

The aircraft clamp is all I use when replacing them. They tighten and seal much better.
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