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  #21  
Old 31st March 2020
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there shouldn't be anything wrong with the bike as far as a short - i just have something hooked up wrong. i have a meter will check m-unit outputs.
yes i hooked up the battery negative last and that activated the starter. i think the start output should not be powered unless the start button on the input side of the m-unit is pressed.

and what are you doing up its 4am
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  #22  
Old 31st March 2020
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I'm retired - I have no day routine - every day is different - but I've been a night-owl all my life.

The mBlue makes certain assumptions about inputs and outputs regarding whether it should be HI=active or LO=active. You'll have to pay attention to that on both the input switches and the output power.

Check your starter button signal coming in - be sure it is LO=active - therefore, it should be HI or unconnected UNTIL ready to run the starter - then it should go to ground (=LO).

ETA - One other thing about your diagram - The BAS bypass function is changes to the harness wire 'coming to the BAS' - No shorting of the BAS itself (you can ignore the actual BAS) - The HD wire harness is what gets shorted & capped. The LtGREEN/Gray wire is essentially shorted to ground (by connecting it to the BLACK wire) and the GRAY wire is capped just to prevent it shorting to anything else.


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Go it working. (Meaning the start button/ starter motor only)
Lol not sure what i did wrong before.

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  #24  
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Very Good - Onward to the goal....


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Old 1st April 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Very Good - Onward to the goal....





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Got some colored markers.
This is everything else motor related.
The rest is just lights.


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Old 1st April 2020
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Might try it like this since it looks like there is a hot wire already coming off the starter.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by robbie202 View Post
Might try it like this since it looks like there is a hot wire already coming off the starter.
Yes - This is the way the MoCo did it - That moves the extra connection to the solenoid instead of the battery - The battery is disconnected much more often than the solenoid so one less wire to deal with there.

The BAS & VOES input to the Ignition Module looks right.

I'm not sure why they show the mBLUE START outputs using two wires, but not going all the way to the solenoid. I understand carrying the load on two parallel wires, but at any point where that becomes just one wire, that wire is carrying the full load. When the solenoid is activated, it can pull as much as 20Amps. I think I would try to get a full capacity single wire to run from the solenoid up to the mBLUE unit and terminate it there with a copper spade lug that fits into the two terminal sockets.

Good Luck...

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Old 8th April 2020
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yes i had the same thought about that start circuit.
project is coming together nicely thanks for your help in walking me through it!
i will start a new thread when it is all done
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  #29  
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Glad to be of help - One more Sporty on the road toward total domination!!!


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