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cv carb, engine missing, jetting, super e carb

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  #11  
Old 28th October 2021
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A Real exhaust... the carb won't have much effect with 20" dumps... lollypops or no.. Lolly's are strictly a band aid... Looks, Loud, Performance, Pick One... maybe 2...Never 3
Nothing in the world that the CV won't do... maybe better, on a stock Evo Sporty
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  #12  
Old 31st October 2021
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Originally Posted by Racepres View Post
A Real exhaust... the carb won't have much effect with 20" dumps... lollypops or no.. Lolly's are strictly a band aid... Looks, Loud, Performance, Pick One... maybe 2...Never 3
Nothing in the world that the CV won't do... maybe better, on a stock Evo Sporty
Oddly enough, I found the problem and took care of it. I have no doubt that properly engineered pipes with well-designed mufflers would improve the performance, but that's not what I have. It turns out that the previous owner over jetted the carb by two sizes, and that is what was causing the breaking up. I bought a stock main jet and installed it, and my breaking up issue is completely gone. There is a little deceleration popping, but I expect the DK "Thunder Torque" inserts to solve that, once they get here. Is the performance as good as stock? Possibly not, but it is really good, so I'm happy.
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  #13  
Old 31st October 2021
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Default Proper jetting cured the issue

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Originally Posted by Gulf Coaster View Post
Thanks for the reply. Low speed jet is a 44 and the main is a 185. When I first opened it up there was a 180 in it. I didn't know if that had been a change by the PO when he put the pipes on, or if that had been a mod. I put a thin washer on the slide needle to open the main jet a little sooner, but I don't know if (a) it did anything or if (b) it helped anything. I'm not sure what you mean by the position of the clip on the needle valve. It has the standard wire retainer to hold it on the float tab, but nothing that you could change the position of. Anyway, The shop manual specifies a 170 jet, as you mentioned, and the video that decman provided suggests that the bike is running too rich due to reversion, not too lean. The plugs also read a little rich. I ordered a 170 jet to try again. I'll pull that washer at the same time. I'm also going to get a set of lollipops and see what that does.
The stock 170 jet is what it needed. Cured the breaking up issue completely!
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  #14  
Old 31st October 2021
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Originally Posted by Gulf Coaster View Post
The stock 170 jet is what it needed. Cured the breaking up issue completely!
That's fine but you're probably too lean now at higher rpm when the slide is fully lifted.

How was the breaking up issue before you shimmed the needle? Did raising the needle make it better or worse. I would suspect it made it worse.
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Old 31st October 2021
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I don't really know. I broke the rule of only changing one thing at a time and I shimmed the needle when I but the larger jet in. Now I have the stock jet in and things seem fine. The plugs, which had looked dark, are now in a better color range. Definitely not too light, though. I'm going to remove the shim and do another run and see how it runs/feels and how the plugs look. Seems like I'm getting close, though! Ironic to think I've gone through all this just to find out what I really needed was a stock set up.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gulf Coaster View Post
The stock 170 jet is what it needed. Cured the breaking up issue completely!
So you currently are running a 44 Slow Jet & 170 Main Jet, right?

Have you used the Idle Drop Method to set the Idle Mixture Screw? Have you reset the throttle plate to make sure the idle is running on the Idle Jet & not the Transfer Ports.

Now is the time to get all the settings right.
Here's the Sportsterpedia page on adjusting the CV40 carb:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:evo:carb02

Glad you're making progress.

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  #17  
Old 25th November 2021
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I would order a velocity needle from cv performance and not worry about clips and washers. I run a 170/45 jetting and very happy. I am about at sea level. The idle mixture screw should be about 2.5 turns out.
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