Clutch Went Out of Adjustment

[wedge]

Take your time and make sure you use jeweler's files to clean up the burrs that you will find on the basket and hub. Note what I said previously, just remove the raised burrs, and do not try to smooth out the grooves that have been cut into the parts. You need to retain as much of the original splines as possible. Any smoothing out will happen as you ride the bike. Don't play with other diaphragm springs, just use the 15% spring that E-1 supplies (Tomcat already said this). It is designed to do the job on Kevlar plates and not slip too much (Kevlar is inherently more slippery than stock plates). E-1 used to tell you not to run synthetic in the primary, so I continue using Valvoline Dino 20-50 in mine with no issues. Now and then you will get a squeal, but that's expected and doesn't hurt anything. (The grenade plate is a squeal suppressor).

Note: I measured the stack height when I installed mine in both bikes, and after about 40,000 miles on the Pig I measured the stack again and there was next to no wear at all. Just a couple of thousandths, so basically my clutch adjustment never seems to change. Except for when my throwout bearing went away like I mentioned earlier I think.

[Bluto]

Originally Posted by Tomcatt

A new OE spring (aka grenade) plate is $37 from Surdyke. I spent ~$60 dollars on the XR pieces. I regret not putting in the XR pieces went I first put in a Barnett Kevlar extra plate disc pack.

An E-1 +15% diaphragm spring is worth considering. It actually gives a nicer lever pull than an OE 1200 spring. There's engineering involved in diaphragm springs, getting them to give a decreasing rate pull at the clutch lever or clutch pedal. E-1 got it right, Harley didn't.

Interesting on the E1 spring having a nicer pull and good to know...have been doing some occasional riding in rush hour traffic lately and that might help.

[IXL2Relax]

Originally Posted by Tomcatt

I spent ~$60 dollars on the XR pieces. I regret not putting in the XR pieces when I first put in a Barnett Kevlar extra plate disc pack.

I'm a bit stubborn when spending money - Since I need the new plates any way I'll install them first to see how things go - the Judder-fix can still be installed later at the same price as if I installed it now. I'll just have to open up the primary again (extra work but my mechanic is cheap - me).

Originally Posted by wedge

Take your time and make sure you use jeweler's files to clean up the burrs that you will find on the basket and hub. Note what I said previously, just remove the raised burrs, and do not try to smooth out the grooves that have been cut into the parts. You need to retain as much of the original splines as possible. Any smoothing out will happen as you ride the bike.

So noted - I'll take a few pics of the basket once I get it on the bench.

Originally Posted by wedge

E-1 used to tell you not to run synthetic in the primary, so I continue using Valvoline Dino 20-50 in mine with no issues.

I just received a reply email from Energy One regarding the use of Mobil One V-Twin 20w-50 oil with their BTX-11 clutch kit:
"Mobile one is a perfect match with our clutch <SNIP> you can also use red line Amsoil Lucas primary oils". Ummmm - don't use SYN3.

So, I'll continue to use Mobil One which I have on hand.

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[koolbreeze]

When I changed out my clutch plates and steels as a preventive measure I went with the SE Clutch kit. https://www.harley-davidson.com/us/e...Kit/p/38002-04

Dealer had one in stock, put it in and have not had any issues. Had to re-adjust the clutch once after it was broken in.

Hope you get it fixed up soon so you are back to riding and posting some of your awesome photos and places you visit.

[IXL2Relax]

Originally Posted by koolbreeze

Hope you get it fixed up soon so you are back to riding and posting some of your awesome photos and places you visit.

Thanks for the kind words - I'll be back in the wind next week - hopefully!
I'll try to get in touch with you about another ride together...


Here are a few more pics:

My DIY Clutch Diaphragm Spring Compressor ---- and the Clutch Release Assembly.


The empty primary cavity.


The Rotor Magnets (look real good) and the Stator Windings (look real good).


The Shifter Detent Parts that I replaced.

You can see the new parts which I installed by looking at the earlier pic. The new detent plate has pointier lobes and the neutral position is a deeper pocket. The old parts looked in good shape, but I still installed the new spring clip & coil spring.

I carefully checked the original detent plate for any issues related to the shifter pins. No issue. The pins in the end of the shifter drum were nicely even. The shifter arm was centered on the pins for a proper shift. I made no changes to the pins or the shifter arm. The new plate fit right on, the spring clip pushed into place without being loose and the coil spring fit just as tightly as the previous one.

Now that the clutch is out, I'll clean it up. Then put it on the bench to begin removing the burrs on the sides of the basket fingers. It looks like only one finger of the hub had damage.


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For Sportster Tech Info:
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