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  #31  
Old 16th September 2018
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Sounds like putting a V8 in a Vega.

OOoooooh, cutting the gearbox off a Vincent might get you drawn and quartered in some circles!
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  #32  
Old 17th September 2018
JustaBastard JustaBastard is offline
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Gimme an Atlas jackhammer that turns the handlebars the size of ball bat big ends at 5000 rpm, any day over a unit construction Triumph twin in a featherbed. You end up with fore and aft motorcycle "trunks" or luggage compartments large enough to carry a few bags of groceries.

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Originally Posted by Ferrous Head View Post
Not the puny little Norton things that originally graced them.
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  #33  
Old 17th September 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrous Head View Post
The Sportster engine is a natural fit into a Featherbed frame. And it makes one of the most (THE most ?) potent combination you can have for a pre 63 motorcycles.
When finished it looks like the frame was made for the engine. Not the puny little Norton things that originally graced them.
One of the last things planned to do to the frame before final assembly was to set it up in the big FADAL and move the swing-arm pivot point after adding inboard gusset plates parallel to the existing plates; since the adjustable timken bearing swingarm would benefit from locating in substantial machined flanged bungs precisely located. It's a nice setup and deserves that.

As it is now, it the chain clears the pivot when taut although eveyone knows chains do tend to flop about vertically under dynamic and changing load conditions.

Most HD's will pull much taller than the hole-shot and wheelie gearing people seem to prefer. I prefer gearing suitable for the salt flats and try to build enough small port torque to pull it with no sweat. Being able to keep up with interstate traffic, having enough left to pass at high speed if needed, and all without the thing breaking and shaking itself to death, suits me much better than 3rd gear throttle wheelies or pulling stumps on the back 40 acres.

As far as I know, those successfully sprinting 53 inchers reduce the size of the shockingly over-sized intake ports to find reasonable port velocity for that long rod mill having an 'n' of 1.75:1. Such an engine likes long skinny intakes and exhausts, smaller rather than large carbs, and are incredibly sensitive to exhaust changes because of the intense reversion slug. Straight pipes on a long rod engine make the reversion slug stronger and harder to contain/manage leaving many wondering why their straight pipes demand a smaller main jet than with muffled exhausts.

This one came to me with a massive 51mm S&S that totally devoid of anything useful other being cognizable by the masses of bolt-on HOG bros, tractor simple to "tune" and offered impressive WOT response while pissing raw fuel out the exhaust returning 25 mpg (US) or less.

To me, that is a broken motorcycle even if it starts easy every time, and when I see such, I sure know right off the bat such a beast needs fixing.

For starters, a streetable antique motorcycle in this size range, more closely related to agricultural power plants than normally aspirated F1 or GP spec engines churning out around 3HP/CID, and that returns less than 50 mpg is broken if it isn't putting around 1HP/CID to the back tire.

So yeah, an ironhead tuned well has zero problems pulling much taller gearing than OEM gearing and they will even if stock. The 8mm belt drive in this one has the larger of the two available front pulleys. Changing overall gearing with this setup is a simple and inexpensive bolt on at the easy back wheel.
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  #34  
Old 17th September 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryder rick View Post
Sounds like putting a V8 in a Vega.

OOoooooh, cutting the gearbox off a Vincent might get you drawn and quartered in some circles!
that isn't considered as the same magnitude of cardinal sinning it used to be since you can buy repop case sets now and I gather the uptight conservationists and purists would rather see a repop set cut than OEM's having any chance of being recuperated
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  #35  
Old 19th November 2019
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Im slowly but surly putting a 79 iron into a slimline right now and am finding the same problem. Assuming the centerline of the engine is midway between the rear lower mount bolts, I am about 3/4 inch away from the being centered in the frame and chain clearing. Am i gathering that being centered isnt extremely critical, close enough is fine?

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4...dPbmlTT0s2RVhV

Last edited by Peteroo; 19th November 2019 at 22:38..
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  #36  
Old 19th November 2019
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Depends on which direction is your favorite to turn!

In other words if the motor mass is not centered it will turn one way better than the other. If you look at the cases the primary weight hangs farther off on the left side so it will be heavier 3/4" off to the right side may almost center the mass. There is very little weight in the cam chest.
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  #37  
Old 20th November 2019
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In practice the center line of the engine does not have to match the center line of the frame.

If you look at a Sportster engine it's asymmetrical. That is. it's not balanced along the center line of the engine.
Steve Harris (Of Harris Frames fame) once built an GP inline 4 across the frame with the engine offset by 1 and 1/2 cylinders. He said handling was fine.

Al you really need to do is line up the chain run. It takes a bit of jiggling to get that just right as the chain passes inside the frame down tube and just clears the tire when done.

When I first went to build mine everyone told me Iit was really difficult and the frame needed to ve widened by at least 1 inch.

I use my own replica frame - widelines - but the principle is the same and no, you don't need to modify the frame. Only the top tubes are narrowed in any case.

Do your chain run first, then determine where the engine mounts are.
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  #38  
Old 20th November 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peteroo View Post
Im slowly but surly putting a 79 iron into a slimline right now and am finding the same problem. Assuming the centerline of the engine is midway between the rear lower mount bolts, I am about 3/4 inch away from the being centered in the frame and chain clearing. Am i gathering that being centered isnt extremely critical, close enough is fine?

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4...dPbmlTT0s2RVhV


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  #39  
Old 20th November 2019
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The rear wheel HAS to be centered and in line with the front wheel.

That's what really determines how the bikes handles.
So where the sprocket lies determines the chain run. You can space them out to move the chain run away from the engine and tire but then the frame down tubes get in the way a bit.
So really, just what Max Effort has done in the photo is what's required.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrous Head View Post
The rear wheel HAS to be centered and in line with the front wheel.

That's what really determines how the bikes handles.
So where the sprocket lies determines the chain run. You can space them out to move the chain run away from the engine and tire but then the frame down tubes get in the way a bit.
So really, just what Max Effort has done in the photo is what's required.
That’s his photo from the link, I just posted it so we could view it.
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