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  #11  
Old 22nd June 2017
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Thank you so much for this! Extremely helpful.

a couple random questions re:

Quote:
When the key and stop/run switches are on, but starter does not operate/no electrics, check voltages and insure that there is voltage past the keyed switch to all the fuses.


To do this I touch the + lead of a multi-meter to the ignition switch red wire (I assume the red not the green) and the black lead to the 30A fuse - is that right? Does it matter which side of the fuse? Is there an IN and an OUT to the fuses?

The quote says to check voltage "to all the fuses." How much voltage should be present at the various fuses, particularly the main 30A fuse? Should it change with the key on, with the key off and while cranking? How about the rest of the fuses?

I'm trying to figure out why my '92 XLH 1200 won't crank sometimes. I put in a new starter b/c the old one was grinding, making noise. Now the bike cranks like a champ now - when it cranks.

I've cleaned the battery cables / posts and other easy-to-reach electrical connections. I changed the starter relay awhile back. Battery is <6 months old and shows 12.7, 12.8 with no load.

About 50% of the time it won't crank till I nudge it in gear then try again. Never fails to finally fire up but it sometimes takes 4, 5 nudges. PITA.

Thanks again for a great post Doc - I appreciate it.
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  #12  
Old 22nd June 2017
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Did the new starter include a new solenoid? If not, when it won't start, will a mild tap with rubber mallet to the solenoid, with key on, holding start button, make it start?
Has the battery negative cable to motor/trans been removed, threads cleaned and reinstalled?

To check fuses (circuit breakers on yours, other than main, I think), the + meter probe goes to the circuit breaker connection and the - probe to battery ground (or a known good ground). If reversed, it will simply read negative voltage, but not affect the value.

The line side from the battery / keyed switch should be same as battery voltage. The load side should also be the same voltage, unless fuse blown or CB tripped. On fuses, with the fuse pulled, the side that is hot (or should be hot) is the line side. The other side is the load side.

Does that answer all your questions?
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  #13  
Old 22nd June 2017
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Hey thanks for the reply! Ya I bought a new starter w/solenoid.

I didn't remove the negative battery cable from the frame i only cleaned it up a bit. But I will - I suspect it needs more attention than I've given it so far. Thanks for the reminder! Same with the fuses/CB panel...

Thanks again for your help - I'll post back after I get to work on it, hopefully to share the solution!
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  #14  
Old 23rd June 2017
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So generous with yer help Doc. A true gentleman.

Here is the extent of my electrical knowledge: If ya can't fix it with a hammer, it's prolly electrical.

Life is short and brutal. Ride free...
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  #15  
Old 24th June 2017
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hi guys - I have a question about a troubleshooting test I found in Clymers.

To test the ground in the starting circuit:
Connect the neg lead from the meter to the neg battery post.
Touch the pos lead to the starter housing.
Turn on the ignition switch and press the starter button.
Book says the meter should read battery voltage or close to it. Is that true?

if if is I guess I found my problem or at least I'm on the right track b/c I get 0 volts. I get voltage at the relay and breakers but nothing at the starter (or the solenoid housing).

well thanks for listening to my tale of woe! if you have any thoughts please share them with me if you got a minute. Thanks again!
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  #16  
Old 24th June 2017
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i do not think that is it. the starter hsg is intregal to the engine case and grounded back to the battery so all of this is in common. i think what they want is one lead to batt and the other on the starter post. now if you use the ohm function then there should be a reading.
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  #17  
Old 24th June 2017
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thanks buster. I copied this from an online version

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/10...?page=6#manual

3. To check the starter ground circuit, connect the nega-
tive voltmeter lead to the negative battery terminal. Con-
nect the positive voltmeter lead to the starter housing.
4. Turn the ignition switch on and push the starter button
while reading the voltmeter scale. The voltage drop must
not exceed 0.2 volt. If it does, check the ground connec-
tions between the meter leads.
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  #18  
Old 24th June 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustert View Post
i do not think that is it. the starter hsg is intregal to the engine case and grounded back to the battery so all of this is in common. i think what they want is one lead to batt and the other on the starter post. now if you use the ohm function then there should be a reading.
+1

The starter case is ground potential, the same as the battery negative post, hence a zero voltage differential.

What are you trying to figure out?
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  #19  
Old 24th June 2017
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trying to see if there's a bad ground in the starting circuit - according to Clymers that test will determine if the ground is okay or whether there's an open somewhere between the battery and the starter.
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  #20  
Old 24th June 2017
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This test will validate the ground circuit from the starter case to the negative battery terminal. Any excess resistance will cause voltage to measure over the .2 volt drop spec. Cable, crimps and connections at the ground stud on the case and the connection at the negative battery terminal are tested.
Joe
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