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Sportster Motorcycle Air intake, Carburetor, EFI, Fuel, and Exhaust Problems, advice and/or how tos for Sporster and Buell motorcycle carburators, Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), Air Intake, Fuel and Exhaust.

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Tags
carburetor adjustment, jetting, s&s, super e, thunderjet

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  #11  
Old 28th September 2017
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You were right about the accelerator pump. I closed it up to only 1.5 turns open. Went back to a 31 low speed jet.
31 low
64 Main
62 airbleed
120 Thunderjet
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  #12  
Old 28th September 2017
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Naw, I can't take the choppiness of the 31 low and I need to go back to the 29.5 Low speed.
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  #13  
Old 28th September 2017
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I run the 31 or 32 Ijet, but I probably have more intake velocity than you do. You will need to lower the airbleed if you want to run that lean on the Ijet.
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  #14  
Old 28th September 2017
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I can't drop the air bleed down enough. It's terrible it coughs out the carb on the low speed and stumbles in the mid range transition.
resetting the carb and going to try:
31 Pilot
64 Main
68 Airbleed
120 Thunderjet


Thank you for your help bro.
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  #15  
Old 29th September 2017
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Got the 31 working good. Just 1.5 turns out on that accelerator pump only.

31 Low
64 Main
66 Air Bleed
120 Thunder Jet

Going to ride that around for a day before I drop the Air Bleed to 64.
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  #16  
Old 29th September 2017
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The other thing you need to do is reprogram your throttle hand... What I mean is you cannot snap the throttle open, you have to learn to roll it open.

You need to get airbleeds from 50 to 76. The smaller airbleed will let you run a smaller Ijet and Main. This will let you dial in the Tjet.

S&S tuning secret knowledge below:

The Ijet is idle rpm to about 2500, the main needs the smaller airbleed to bring it in early say about 1800 to 4500, and the Tjet should start coming in around 4k to 4500 rpm.

A 29 or 29.5 is ideal as it will give much snappier response so long as your main comes in early enough. You also need to do all of your base tuning with the Accelpump disabled. That is the only way to get it right. Tune it using throttle roll on. If you are able to see the tach as you accelerate you can feel there the carb goes lean or fat and adjust only the jet dominating that portion of the rpm you feel it at. Once that is correct the accelpump can be enabled so you can snap the throttle open.

The biggest thing to remember about an S&S is the circuits are more RPM based than throttle position based. That is just the nature of a butterfly carb. There is no needle to control the fuel feed based on port velocity and the variable fuel delivery through the main circuit that the needle controls. That is the difference and why a needle and slide carb is tuned using the throttle position vs the butterfly being tuned using rpm.

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  #17  
Old 30th September 2017
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Got the 31 Pilot working ok with a 62 Air Bleed.
31 Low (1/2 Turn out Mixture Screw)
64 Main
62 Air Bleed
120 Thunder jet

Now I'm going to test the 29.5 Intermediate with the same set up. I'm just trying to improve the out of the hole (I hope).

29.5 Intermediate
64 Main
62 Air Bleed
120 Thunderjet
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  #18  
Old 30th September 2017
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The bike is quicker off the line with the 29.5 pilot, so I guess that's were it needs to be. I'm going to try shortening the accelerator pump rod 3\16 to get the squirt just a hair later but still a good blast so I can keep the front tire off the ground a few more feet during launch.

29.5 low
64 Main
63 Air Bleed
120 Thunder Jet
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  #19  
Old 1st October 2017
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I would lean the main 1 size and put more Tjet in it...

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  #20  
Old 3rd October 2017
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Added more T-Jet up to 135, went up on the Air Bleed to 64. A good, pull now in mid range, with an explosive top-end.
29.5 Low
64 Main
64 Air Bleed
135 Thunderjet
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