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Sportster Motorcycle Transmission, Clutch, Primary & Secondary Drive Transmission, Clutch and primary or secondary drive problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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  #11  
Old 17th April 2011
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I received an email from them stating.

It is available for sale. Call us at 800-893-6916 to order.
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  #12  
Old 17th April 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnK View Post
How did you guys get yours? According to their website the HB125XL is "coming soon!"

Great write up BTW, have some rep
It will be awhile till their web master fixes the site. You need to call them @ 800-893-6916.
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  #13  
Old 17th April 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuxBlue View Post
Looks like you could do with some replacement bushes for your sidestand pivot.
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  #14  
Old 17th April 2011
jguynn jguynn is offline
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Excellent write up, rep to you! Looking forward to some long term impressions, please keep us up to date.
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  #15  
Old 17th April 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelworker View Post
Looks like you could do with some replacement bushes for your sidestand pivot.
Good eye! I'll check it out more closely!
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  #16  
Old 17th April 2011
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Well done write up.
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Old 18th April 2011
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Thanks for all the nice replies and rep!

The weatherman was actually right for a change, sunny and pretty warm today but still windy as Hell! I just got back from a pretty decent ride.

Before I left, I opened up the inspection cover and checked the tension on the primary chain. It moved about 1/2" which is on the high side of normal when cold. I put the cover back on and went for a ride.

First impressions of the tensioner are:

The bike shifted nicely both upshifting and downshifting.

Neutral was easy to find.

So far you can get those results from a properly adjusted manual tensioner.

Where I did feel a difference was when I was decelerating or downshifting. There is virtually no "lurching" or grabbing, the transition to me seemed much smoother.

Also I tried idling along in first gear about 950 rpm on a level part of my street and the bike did not lurch at all.

I'm certain the tensioner keeps all the slack out of the chain no matter what the rpms or chain growth due to heating and cooling.

There was no whining so I don't believe it's too tight.

So far I believe it's working at advertised. Not necessarily a huge improvement over the stock tensioner but I do believe it completely takes out all slack under ANY situation. Kinda like that RONCO Rotisserie cooker..."Set it and forget it!"
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  #18  
Old 18th April 2011
AsSeenOnTV AsSeenOnTV is offline
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Great write up LuxBlue, this should be a sticky. You made it look like even I could do that. Reps to ya
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Old 19th April 2011
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Just an observation here.

In my write up I didn't explain how to adjust the initial setting of the tensioner. It is, however, explained well in the instructions.

When you adjust the tensioner for the first time, you start with the tensioner bottomed out and the spring completely compressed. This allows for maximum chain play and easier installation of the primary cover to allow the chain to flop up on the shoe while placing the cover on.

After the cover bolts are tightened and you're ready to adjust, you turn the tensioner threaded shaft CW, (there's a screwdriver slot), until you feel no tension from the spring. This is easy to feel because the screwdriver will all of a sudden turn more easily. You can then back out a little until you feel the transition of the spring and find exactly where it stops pushing. Tighten down the lock nut at this time.

When I first fired up, the chain bounced around quite a bit and now that I know better, I should have been more patient and allowed the tensioner to prime itself longer. Evidently with thick, cold primary oil it may have taken a little longer for the tensioner to prime itself and get rid of the trapped air. I ended up putting another half turn on the shaft that I really didn't need.

So, I readjusted the tensioner last night. I loosened the jam nut and backed off until I found the spring tension release point and snugged it down again. The unit stays pumped up pretty well so all the chain slack was out already.

According to SO Hotbikes....nice people by the way, there's a check ball in the lower port that holds the pressure pretty well although over time when not running it may bleed off a little. Once the unit is primed, as the chain play rocks the tensioner against the spring, it pulls in oil as needed to pump up to the design psi and the top pop off port burps out oil to keep the tension constant.

My point in all this is, follow their instructions to the letter. Adjust the tensioner only to the release point of the spring and if the chain is floppy on initial start, wait at least a few minutes to allow the tensioner to prime and pump up. It really works well this way. I had a little too much "in" adjustment the first time since I wasn't patient. The tensioner needs to rebound off the spring to pump up properly. It still worked OK but now I know it's set up 100% correctly.

Last edited by LuxBlue; 19th April 2011 at 13:19..
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  #20  
Old 19th April 2011
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Just a thought on the initial setting, feel free to correct me if I am looking at it wrong.

While the primary cover is still off, couldn't you turn the tensioner shaft until the spring was in the transition spot, put on the lock nut finger tight and measure how much of the threaded shaft was exposed below the nut? Or possibly measure from the outside of cover and get the entire exposed length. Then bottom the shaft to allow for the cover install and then return the shaft to the length you measured once the primary cover was torqued down...seems that would be somewhat more accurate than just feeling for the transition point of spring tension.
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