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  #31  
Old 25th July 2019
steveolds steveolds is offline
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OK, new test. Powered flasher direct from battery using independent loom, all works correctly
Powered flasher with battery, used stock loom, all loom flashes

I switched up power source for flasher to thr accessory O/W wires, loom flashes.

It seems my issue lies somewhere in the accessory.power circuits. Im running the tail light through an accessory wire, as is the headlight. Maybe I should just consider redoing the whole harness, at least the accessory and TS circuits?

Last edited by steveolds; 25th July 2019 at 23:32..
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  #32  
Old 26th July 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveolds View Post
OK, new test. Powered flasher direct from battery using independent loom, all works correctly
Explain this more - Do you mean you simply ran a wire from the battery to the Flasher but made no other changes in any of the wire connections? Or did you make other changes to the TS wiring?

Quote:
Originally Posted by steveolds View Post
Battery is at 9.5 volts, I'm using a very small Li for testing purposes
I'm not sure how I missed this before...

I'm wondering if your battery is so low in (charge) voltage that it is simply not able to power all the circuits sufficiently... If may be that the TS functioning is simply pulling down the battery power for the entire system...

Try using a proper 12v, fully powered battery...


Quote:
Originally Posted by steveolds View Post
Im running the tail light through an accessory wire, as is the headlight.
Do you mean you REWIRED the tail light & the headlight switch to use the ACCESSORY circuit? Those originally used the BLUE wire of the LIGHTS circuit breaker...

===================================

Since I'm not there, I'm asking these million questions to try to get what you have in front of you, at least partially, in front of me (by your words and pictures)...

Clarify for me --- Do you have 1157 or 1156 bulbs in the turn signals?
When you look into the TS housing socket, do you see two solder dots for contacts?

Did you meter or otherwise test the wiring of the TS housing to verify function?
If you have 1157 bulbs, which COLOR wire on the TS housing
- goes to the Common Bulb Shell?
- goes to the BRIGHT Element?
- goes to the DIM Element?

Did you check to see that you have ALL FOUR TS housings
wired into the existing wiring in the same way?

The original wiring TO the front TS units used
a ground connection (usually BLACK wire)
a TS signal (would be L-VIOLET or R-BROWN wire)
& keyed 12v for running lights (usually BLUE wire)

The rear (thru the Tail Light Circuit Board) only used two wires:
a ground connection (usually BLACK wire)
& TS signal (would be L-VIOLET or R-BROWN wire)


Did you change anything about the Indicator wiring?
Do the indicators work correctly in conjunction with L & R TS flashing?

I'm still trying to get a handle on what part of the wiring you touched and what may be the point where cross connection occured...


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  #33  
Old 26th July 2019
steveolds steveolds is offline
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" I'm still trying to get a handle on what part of the wiring you touched and what may be the point where cross connection occured..."
Good luck with this one. I spliced into HD harness at left switch, right switch, and indicators. Using a Dr650 indicator panel, doesnt have R/L lights, only one. Yes, it flashes appropriately.
Spliced TS into front TS loom, BLUE wires unattached (since no running lights). Removed TSM, rear TS into bro/violet, tail light and license light are on blue. Thats it for alterations.

I did use test light on the battery while flashing, and even the battery is flashing.

I did note that on my XL wiring diagram it shows 2 O/W wires from fuse out, mine only has one out. It splits into 3 circuits in loom. Of course, the diagram shows 1 white out, and I have 2.

"Did you check to see that you have ALL FOUR TS housings
wired into the existing wiring in the same way?
I'm lost here. If R TS is on brown and L TS is on violet front and back, how can they be wired incorrectly?
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  #34  
Old 26th July 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveolds View Post
"Did you check to see that you have ALL FOUR TS housings wired into the existing wiring in the same way?
I'm lost here. If R TS is on brown and L TS is on violet front and back, how can they be wired incorrectly?
I was referring to using the proper color wires OF THE TS HOUSING when connecting those into the existing harness wiring... But if you are not using the 'running lights' in the front or rear, but only connecting to the TS wiring (L-VIOLET & R-BROWN) and a ground, I suppose that's not an issue....

Quote:
Originally Posted by steveolds View Post
"I did use test light on the battery while flashing, and even the battery is flashing.
I'm now leaning toward the battery being too low to supply proper voltage/current - If the voltage at the battery is fluctuating, you really need a fully charged, near 13v battery to do further testing... The load you are pulling with 4 incandescent bulbs is near 20amps... Plus all the other lights...


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  #35  
Old 26th July 2019
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20 amps? I had no idea. Almost certainly its jacking the battery current. My fuse is only a 15 amp, will that be an issue? It seems crazy HD put 20 amps of lights in a 15 amp circuit. I'll use a new battery and report back
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  #36  
Old 26th July 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveolds View Post
20 amps? I had no idea. Almost certainly its jacking the battery current. My fuse is only a 15 amp, will that be an issue? It seems crazy HD put 20 amps of lights in a 15 amp circuit. I'll use a new battery and report back
I double-checked (I was thinking 5-amps per bulb, but it's really 5-amps per side) --- So, it's more like 10 amps for the entire TS functions - but that's intermittent... the 15-amp breaker will be fine...

Still, that's a load on a small battery, especially since it is obvious not fully charged if it's only running 9.5 volts...

A fully charged AGM battery (minimum 220CCA rated) should be 12.7v (or more) to be fully charged...

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  #37  
Old 27th July 2019
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Well, don't I feel like a freaking a**hole? New battery solved all problems. Thank you for staying with it and me. I learned a pretty valuable lesson with this exercise.

I did hit a small snag though. Im using the Dr650 pilot lamps, and it only has one lamp for both L and R TS. I tied the Bro to the white and led it into the lamp. Now both signals flash with the lamp. When I unhook the lamp it works correctly. The current is being fed to both R and L because they are tied together. What would the wiring look like to get it to not flash both? Here is a simple diagram

Last edited by steveolds; 27th July 2019 at 23:55..
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  #38  
Old 28th July 2019
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You mentioned the battery earlier, but I missed that bit of info...
Glad that was the source and not some cross-wiring...


Quote:
Originally Posted by steveolds View Post
The current is being fed to both R and L because they are tied together. What would the wiring look like to get it to not flash both?
You need two DIODES to isolate the Left TS signal from the Right TS signal... After the DIODES, then the two signals are tied together to the bulb...

Like This:



Be sure you have the diodes oriented correctly - The bar needs to be on the wiring side to the bulb...

If the bulb itself is an LED, you need to be sure you have positive and negative connections correct - If it's an incandescent bulb, it won't make a different which connection you make...


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  #39  
Old 28th July 2019
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Very cool, sounds like easy fix. Certainly cheap enough. In researching them it seems they are just soldered to the wires as any other splice. I guess the entire diode can be finished with heat shrink. Any other cautions ,other than noting the +- ends, to make them last in severe duty? Any suggested place to install that is better than another? Do they need to be supported while inline (zip tied to something to keep from flopping around) I knew nothing of diodes, pretty neat stuff. Are there any other cool uses on a bike for them?

Last edited by steveolds; 28th July 2019 at 13:13..
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  #40  
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Nothing special with mounting diodes, they can be bundled with the wires - The ones I mentioned are power diodes, intended for this type service - you can shrink-wrap over them - just don't cut the leads too short or you'll start to fry the diode while trying to solder them in place - 3/8" should be OK for lead length...

Diodes are used in the rectifier/regulator to convert the stator AC voltage to usable DC voltage to the battery/bike...

Here's the Wikipedia on the 1N400X diodes:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1N400x...purpose_diodes

The 1N4001 & 1N4004 are very popular and available choices - As the chart shows, they are good up to 1amp - other P/N are rated higher...

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