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Sportster Motorcycle Transmission, Clutch, Primary & Secondary Drive Transmission, Clutch and primary or secondary drive problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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  #1  
Old 7th October 2019
THEWILDONE THEWILDONE is offline
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Default Cheap 7200B bearing = NO!

This is a copy and paste of what I typed in a thread where I was asking about clutch adjustment to update that thread with more information. I wanted to share it in a separate thread specifically talking about the cheap 7200B bearings that amazon sells, just in case it might help someone else.

Got some interesting information to report on the amazon 7200B bearing......

My clutch started acting up again, wouldn't disengage fully, creeping forward with the lever pulled in, hard shifting and nearly impossible to find neutral.......

The 7200B bearings that I purchased on amazon are total junk..... After going through the motions to adjust the clutch with no success, I pulled out the throwout bearing and it's retainer plate......

One of the things I noticed is that it was difficult if not impossible to get a solid feel of where the adjuster was while turning the screw.... The 7200B bearing just felt gritty as hell while turning the screw back and forth to find the point at which it just starts to contact the pressure plate/diaphragm spring.... Also had some noticeable wobble in the bearing itself.... I pulled out the 7200B bearing and tossed in the OTHER 7200B bearing that came in the 2 pack from amazon.... Same thing, gritty feeling while turning the adjuster in and the contact point which determines the adjustment seemed to keep moving around on me......

So, I stuck in a stock bearing that we pulled out of my buddy's 2013 Sporty-Eight. This bearing was of course used but felt decently tight.... This one just felt right, no more gritty vagueness like BOTH of the 7200B bearings had.....

Before anyone asks, yes I installed BOTH of the "upgraded" 7200B angular bearings the correct way with the "fat" race on one side going DOWN into the retainer plate thingy....

I think the point of all this is that the 7200B bearings that amazon sells are very poor quality, at least the ones I ended up with are........ I'm either going to just run the stock HD bearing in there from now on, or, hunt down a high quality 7200B version... I think the amazon 2 pack of 7200B bearings was about 12 bucks so that says something maybe.......

I understand the angular contact bearing should be an improvement, but it's so easy to get to I will probably just stick with the stock HD style bearing and throw a new one in there however often I need to.

Something else I noticed, in my case at least, the adjustment seems to be more spot on if I DON'T back the adjuster screw off 1/4 turn after contacting the pressure plate/diaphragm spring.... I know from reading in the Sportsterpedia that if the screw is in too far you might get clutch slip, but that doesn't seem to be an issue here with NOT backing off a 1/4 turn..... I wonder if having the Barnett stiff diaphragm spring has something to do with this????

Those cheapass 7200B bearings have caused me a fair share of grief over the clutch adjustment. Talk about frustrating, performing the adjustment correctly and as simple as the procedure is and STILL not having the clutch disengage.......
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Old 7th October 2019
Tomcatt Tomcatt is offline
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Default

I installed an FAG 7200B, NOS bought on e-bay. 5,000 miles on it so far and it works perfectly.

It is easy to put the bearing in the wrong way. Good explanation courtesy of wedge:

Quote:
Originally Posted by wedge View Post
...This can easily get confusing because we are now talking about the bearing holder that is held in with the big retaining ring. The bearing goes into that holder with the fat outer race going in first...
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  #3  
Old 7th October 2019
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There's a plague of cheap bearings out there. I'd think this FAG is good enough.


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Old 7th October 2019
THEWILDONE THEWILDONE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomcatt View Post
I installed an FAG 7200B, NOS bought on e-bay. 5,000 miles on it so far and it works perfectly.

It is easy to put the bearing in the wrong way. Good explanation courtesy of wedge:
Yeah, the diagram in the sportsterpedia really helps as far as orientation too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxeffort View Post
There's a plague of cheap bearings out there. I'd think this FAG is good enough.


Looks to be a much higher quality bearing than the amazon cheapies. The mention of nylon in the cage material makes me question it, but its probably no biggie anyways.
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Old 7th October 2019
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60Gunner 60Gunner is offline
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Several of us have warned about the cheap Chinese 2 packs. That FAG is a good bearing. Get what you pay for.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THEWILDONE View Post
Yeah, the diagram in the sportsterpedia really helps as far as orientation too.



Looks to be a much higher quality bearing than the amazon cheapies. The mention of nylon in the cage material makes me question it, but its probably no biggie anyways.
IDK for sure, but it's a known brand. I general I'd want Timken, SKF, NTN, NSK, FAG etc... made in USA, Germany or Japan. I'm fortunate to have several bearing supply houses in my area... those folks know more about bearings than I ever will. I leaned when buying bearings for a milling machine that there are many grades of bearing, even in the same brand and basic part number.
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Old 7th October 2019
THEWILDONE THEWILDONE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60Gunner View Post
Get what you pay for.
Not always. I have had cheap chineesium parts work out great, and more expensive American made parts crap out in quick order. In this case though yeah, definitely get what you pay for.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxeffort View Post
IDK for sure, but it's a known brand. I general I'd want Timken, SKF, NTN, NSK, FAG etc... made in USA, Germany or Japan. I'm fortunate to have several bearing supply houses in my area... those folks know more about bearings than I ever will. I leaned when buying bearings for a milling machine that there are many grades of bearing, even in the same brand and basic part number.
It would be nice if they would have designed the bearing retainer plate in such a way to accept a tapered roller bearing. Those tend to be brick-shit-house-tough in any application.
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Old 7th October 2019
Tomcatt Tomcatt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THEWILDONE View Post
It would be nice if they would have designed the bearing retainer plate in such a way to accept a tapered roller bearing.
Wrong type bearing for the application.
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Old 7th October 2019
THEWILDONE THEWILDONE is offline
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Wrong because it wouldn't interface with the retainer plate.
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Old 8th October 2019
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At work not long ago we had an application for a precision bearing. Ordered a Timken with special factory vapor degreasing. Came sealed in a pouch to keep them clean. We ordered 12 or so of them. Before starting the install someone opened a pouch and was playing with the bearing and noticed that it felt gritty. This is not right! Checked a few more, same thing. Called the distributor. He said no way, I'll get back with you. When he called back you could tell he was "perplexed". The units he checked in there stock were the same, grit in the bearing! He had called Timken and they said this was such a special application bearing to manufacture that Timken outsourced it to Asia.
One would think that if it were that special there would be some special QC. But I guess not. So bottom line is what you think you are getting and what you really are may not be the same thing. And in bearings, you get what you pay for - usually.
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