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Sportster Motorcycle Engine Conversions Advice, questions, and tips for 1200, 1250, 1340, 1450 etc... for Sportster and Buell motorcycle engine conversions

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  #11  
Old 22nd July 2019
CDeckner CDeckner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juzyHD View Post
Not carb related but I would also pay atention to a weak primary design on this 4 speed engine...
Absolutely. I had to rebuild the transmission and the primary on it so I upgraded the trapdoor with the zippers and the sealed magnet rotor with an Barnett extra plate for the clutch pack.
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  #12  
Old 22nd July 2019
CDeckner CDeckner is offline
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When I talked to Dan over at hammer about my build I talked with him about my super e. He said I could run it but might have issues getting it tuned perfect. He suggested that any further work is definitely going to require a Mikuni or if I had a lot of trouble dialing in the s&s. I’m at the 90+HP package level which is probably all I’ll really want as far as power. I like munching miles over seeing how fast I can get to the next stoplight.

I’m not really wanting to throw down an additional 1k to upgrade to a Mikuni at this point unless absolutely necessary. If I was going to upgrade the carb I would probably convert to a cv carb those are cheaply had used. Unless I can find an hsr45 for a steal. Or if I really wanted to get froggy call the folks over at lectron for one of their fancy carbs.
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  #13  
Old 23rd July 2019
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juzyHD juzyHD is offline
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Originally Posted by CDeckner View Post
Absolutely. I had to rebuild the transmission and the primary on it so I upgraded the trapdoor with the zippers and the sealed magnet rotor with an Barnett extra plate for the clutch pack.
There are reports of vtwin sealed baskes failures. They are weaker as stock baskets...
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  #14  
Old 22nd April 2020
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Highly-Dangerous Highly-Dangerous is online now
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Originally Posted by CDeckner View Post
I’m in the works on an ‘89 883 to 1275 upgrade. Well actually a 1200 to 1275 upgrade. I bought a project and when I finally got it running I discovered a hole in the rear piston. I disassembled the top end to discover the 883 cylinders was bored to 1200 and it look like someone opened up the cylinder chamber on the heads with a die grinder. Given that the whole engine was rattle canned black I’m not surprised.

I’ve bought some ‘86 bathtub heads and my crank sent off to hammer getting the impact treatment. I’m excited to get this engine back together and munch some miles.

The bike came with an S&S super E when I bought it. I was planning on running it when the time comes. I know hammer recommends a Mikuni or rejetting a CV. Is anyone running one on their builds? Any jetting recommendations from stock? Or should I pick up a cv and intake and jet as hammer recommends?
So, what route did you take?
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  #15  
Old 22nd April 2020
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Originally Posted by dieselvette View Post
The stock CV carb is horsepower-limited, but if it's not the "weak link" in your build then that doesn't matter. Then again, too small of Mikuni is also limited.

Some really like the Mikuni for throttle response - it is better. Tuners like it because it's much faster to change jets, etc.

I have chosen to stick with the CV for a few reasons:
1) I already own it
2) It works better at varying altitudes
3) I prefer riding over wrenching. I put on lots of long miles (see #2). So I'll take the little extra time for tuning, and then be done wrenching for many thousands of miles, don't care that the Mikuni is easier for making adjustments.
4) It is not the "weak link" in my build. It would be fun to have better throttle response, but that doesn't outweigh the above factors.
I don't get when people say how much you have to adjust the mikuni for different altitudes. I have my hsr45 dynotuned when it was at 115' above sea level. I used to have an hsr42 dynoed at around 600'above sea level which I have circled the country with it, been from sea level to over 12000' above sea level with the 45 and above 5000' with the 42 carbs and never adjusted it and never had any issues with the bike running any differently in any if those altitudes. I have read people say how they live up in the mountains and when they come down they have to pull over and change a jet to run it when he comes down to the bottom of the mountains. I never see any difference myself driving any altitudes with my mikuni. Am I just not noticing it?
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2002 XL1200C (originally)


Hammer 1250 kit W/ 30° reverse dome pistons, billet 2.25" crush forward offset open air cleaner, billet intake manifold, Impact 560's, Sledge Hammer pushrods, Buell XB heads with crush level head porting, Mikuni HSR 45, 177.5 main, 25 slow, Clip 4th slot from top, Jim's powerglide II lifters,
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Ricor intimnators, 13" Ricor IAS shocks, Brembo dual disk setup from 2012 street glide w/ matching brembo street glide master cylinder,
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States I Have rode through

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  #16  
Old 22nd April 2020
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Originally Posted by Highly-Dangerous View Post
So, what route did you take?
I put the s&s back on and jetted it to the specs listed on Hammer’s website. I’m gonna run this for the break in miles and then I’m probably going to bite the bullet on a mikuni and then get it dynotuned.
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  #17  
Old 24th April 2020
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I have the Super E on my 2000, with S&S 89” stroker kit. It works well, great throttle response and gives me 50-55 m.p.g. I have no need to change it.
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  #18  
Old 15th June 2020
CDeckner CDeckner is offline
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So I just made the switch to a mikuni HSR42 I also swapped the s&s intake that I had for the Hammer billet intake.

Holy xxxx is it a night and day difference in the performance. The bike pulls so evenly through the rpms. I guess it’s one of those cases where you don’t know what you’re missing until you change.

Next up is to get the bike on the dyno!!
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  #19  
Old 15th June 2020
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Originally Posted by CDeckner View Post
So I just made the switch to a mikuni HSR42 I also swapped the s&s intake that I had for the Hammer billet intake.

Holy xxxx is it a night and day difference in the performance. The bike pulls so evenly through the rpms. I guess it’s one of those cases where you don’t know what you’re missing until you change.

Next up is to get the bike on the dyno!!
I went with the Mik-42 also (as per Hammer recommendation for my 1275 Basic Kit).

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