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View Poll Results: What synthetic oil brand do you use in your cars or your bike. You choose more than 1
Amsoil 341 24.48%
Mobil1 538 38.62%
HD SYN3 290 20.82%
Royal purple 58 4.16%
Shell 16 1.15%
Castrol 83 5.96%
Penziol 12 0.86%
Other 214 15.36%
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  #431  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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The crap about only using the VR1 in certain Harleys is because of the higher level of zinc, which is what makes it a good oil for protecting the moving parts in your motor, are not so good for catalytic converters over time tho many people with cats are running VR1 with no adverse effects on the cats.
It's also not for use in wet clutches even tho some people do use it again with no obvious consequences. I don't use oil designed for motors in my transmission anyway so. A motor oil that's best for trannys probably isnt the best for your motor and vice versa. Just because you can doesn't mean you should.

The VR1 holds up better to heat even after 5000 miles than any synthetic it's been tested against tho I wouldn't run any oil 5000 miles in these motors.
Some people still think it's meant for short term use. They are confusing it with Valvoline's NSL(not street legal) which is a race oil designed with no detergents and meant to be run hard for a short time and dumped.
VR1 does come in synthetic as well but the conventional does just as well for half the price and makes it the number 1 choice for performance motors of all kinds.
2000 miles max and I dump it and change the filter too.
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Last edited by 60Gunner; 4 Weeks Ago at 16:08..
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  #432  
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How many of you (some yes) does over 10 K Miles in a year?

Those who does not fit that (5K Miles/year) ... it´s easy... change it whatever comes first... the 5K or the 12 months. (the ones who do over 10... they know.)

Go hard or stay home.

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  #433  
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Originally Posted by Highly-Dangerous View Post
How many of you (some yes) does over 10 K Miles in a year? ...


I do

Change roughly every 5K using Syn3.
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  #434  
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Sorry. 5000 miles is too long for any oil. Contamination from moisture and fuel is too great no matter how good you think your oil stands up after 5000 miles.
Maybe if those 5000 miles are done in long trips of extended hiway miles I could see it. I do a lot of 25 to 50 miles a day. No way in hell I would run 5000 miles on oil. But at $5.60/qt I can change it twice as often as syn3 for not much more in $$$. Better, safer option imo.

Last edited by 60Gunner; 4 Weeks Ago at 23:55..
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  #435  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60Gunner View Post
Sorry. 5000 miles is too long for any oil. Contamination from moisture and fuel is too great no matter how good you think your oil stands up after 5000 miles.
Maybe if those those 5000 miles are done in long trips of extended hiway miles I could see it. I do a lot of 25 to 50 miles a day. No way in hell I would run 5000 miles on oil. But at $5.60/qt I can change it twice as often as syn3 for not much more in $$$. Better, safer option imo.
My use was a mix, sure I went 5,000 in a week a few times a year, but have also done 20-50 mile trips over a longer period of time and took 3-4 months to hit 5,000 miles. I also did an oil analysis almost every oil change once I passed 100,000 miles and they showed almost no fuel in the oil and little metal. Once I had a lot of fuel and a lot of metal, but that was when I was troubleshooting an issue and had started and shut down the bike many times without letting it warm up to burn off the fuel in the oil not long before I changed it.

I had 206,000 miles on my engine when it went, and that was due to a major mistake I made and not wear related. I had a cylinder off just before it went and I could still see the cross hatching in the cylinder wall.

However, every situation is different and each owner needs to do what he feels is best to be comfortable with their bike. If that means running what they believe is a better oil and filter, doing whatever they need to do to get every last drop of old oil out of the system, and changing it more frequently than is suggested by the manufacturer then go for it.
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  #436  
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I'm not saying all synthetic is bad. Just there's conventional out there that do just as well for less money and shorter OICs is a good practice. This is why the VR1 conventional is used far more than the VR1 synthetic.
Some of the synthetics either shear or turn to sludge by 5000 miles including some of the popular designer motorcycle oils.
That said, Redline makes good products. I'd run that before the more popular M1 V-twin.
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  #437  
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Unable to get the VR1 20-50 here in Australia as well. Can get the synthetic only.
At one stage i even contacted the Vavoline Importer direct for information. It is possible for Vavoiline Australia to bring it in for me but they asked a rediculous amount of money something like $400 -500 AUD for a case of 6!! Crazy!
I told them i only wanted to purchase the product and i wasn't after a share in the company!
Even on E-Bay it is difficult to get and pricey. I do wish we had the same choices as you guys in the States.
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  #438  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikeaholic View Post
Unable to get the VR1 20-50 here in Australia as well. Can get the synthetic only.
At one stage i even contacted the Vavoline Importer direct for information. It is possible for Vavoiline Australia to bring it in for me but they asked a rediculous amount of money something like $400 -500 AUD for a case of 6!! Crazy!
I told them i only wanted to purchase the product and i wasn't after a share in the company!
Even on E-Bay it is difficult to get and pricey. I do wish we had the same choices as you guys in the States.
You can't buy on Amazon there? That sucks. That's where I get mine. Always a good price. $32 - $33 a case. $16 for an oil change + filter. With a little left over each time to top off if necessary before the next change which rarely happens.
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  #439  
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I used Amsoil on one Sporty engine and ran it over 150,000 miles before the top end had to even be opened up. Swapped the engine out for a very low mileage engine and ran it for over 150,000 miles using Mobil 1 Synthetic V-Twin oil. Put over 100,000 more on a rebuilt top end with the Mobil1. I have just about decided if you keep the oil changed and take care of the mechanical maintenance that it don't make a fiddler's damn what kind of oil you use, just so it is suitable for the application and listed for use in wet clutch systems. I am now using Lucas Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil for wet clutch applications............. mainly just because it is easy to get.
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Originally Posted by Graywolf View Post
I used Amsoil on one Sporty engine and ran it over 150,000 miles before the top end had to even be opened up. Swapped the engine out for a very low mileage engine and ran it for over 150,000 miles using Mobil 1 Synthetic V-Twin oil. Put over 100,000 more on a rebuilt top end with the Mobil1. I have just about decided if you keep the oil changed and take care of the mechanical maintenance that it don't make a fiddler's damn what kind of oil you use, just so it is suitable for the application and listed for use in wet clutch systems. I am now using Lucas Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil for wet clutch applications............. mainly just because it is easy to get.
I don't care if my motor oil is for use in wet clutches. That gets oil made for gear boxes. What's good for one isn't what's best for the other.
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