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Sportster Motorcycle Suspension, Frame, Forks, Handlebars, Fuel Tank, Oil Tank, Fenders Discuss Sportster Motorcycle Suspension, Frame, Forks, Handlebars, Fuel Tank, Oil Tank, Fenders problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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  #11  
Old 12th September 2014
Sweet Terry Smoove's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportysrock View Post
What numbers are you working with? This should work even accounting for a bit of wear I would think.

-- Sent with :-)
Lossen stem bolt, tighten to 23-27 ft-lbs, loosen again and tighten to 72-96 in-lbs this is directly from the 2007 FSM assembly/installation instructions for fork stem and bracket assy.
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  #12  
Old 14th September 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweet Terry Smoove View Post
Lossen stem bolt, tighten to 23-27 ft-lbs, loosen again and tighten to 72-96 in-lbs this is directly from the 2007 FSM assembly/installation instructions for fork stem and bracket assy.
Thank you for the information. I wonder why there's such a disparity between the two sets of values? It's about a factor of 3!, but I'm going to try it out.

-- Sent with :-)
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  #13  
Old 14th September 2014
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the ft-lbs pulls everything together, loosen, then the inch-lbs sets it to pass the fall away test. It only takes one time getting things a fraction too tight and you realize that the bike steers you and wants to fall over in the corners, after that you appreciate the fall away method to keep you from killing yourself. imo
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  #14  
Old 15th September 2014
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Since I was in the neighborhood of these parts today I hope I'm OK.

I purchased a used 2008 Nightster two days ago and thought the forks were topping out. Instead, the steering stem bolt on top of the upper triple clamp was very loose and allowing slop in the steering.

After lifting the wheel, I used a socket wrench to tighten it as tight as one hand could do. The forks turn completely free, and there is no indication of either binding or looseness like there was.

I don't have a service manual ... yet. So what say the experts in this thread, am I OK for now?

Update: I've made an appointment with my HDealer of choice to check it out.
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Last edited by ed_in_az; 15th September 2014 at 21:27..
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  #15  
Old 25th September 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweet Terry Smoove View Post
Lossen stem bolt, tighten to 23-27 ft-lbs, loosen again and tighten to 72-96 in-lbs this is directly from the 2007 FSM assembly/installation instructions for fork stem and bracket assy.

Using this method has resulted in probably the best feeling fork my bike has had since I got it.

-- Sent with :-)
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  #16  
Old 3rd August 2019
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I ran across this thread when I had questions about my: 2000 Sportster 1200S "Steering Head".

I bought this bike this Spring and have been tinkering on it ever since. It runs excellent. I Have done numerous Upgrades to the bike as well But, have not touched the internal part of the engine at all.

My concern was my Very Easy to Turn Steering. It was the most free to turn steering on any Harley I have ever had. After reading numerous threads and everyone's different feedback, I went ahead and checked a couple things.

1) I found how to tighten the Steering Head Bolt and figured this might help stiffen up the steering a bit. - Sure Enough... the Steering Head Bolt was Barely Snug. I ended up tightening the bolt down approximately 1 1/2 turns until it was pretty tight (approximately 80-100ft lbs. tq. ).

2) I found the Steering Head Grease Zirk Fitting and began pumping in: Valvoline "Cerulean" High Temp Multipurpose Grease into the Steering Stem - when I finally finished, after several short rides and several re-tightengs and re-pump's of more grease in... It ended up taking a total of 177 grease gun pumps (hand pump) before grease began to seep out the upper area of the Steering Stem. I am guessing this bike's Steering Stem may never have been serviced with grease after it was purchased new.

Anyway, the steering feels more firm or, less loose than it did before I started this project.

This bike has just under 19,000 miles and runs perfect - Since I purchased it I upgraded from the Stock Intake to a Screamin Eagle Air Cleaner Kit but, retained the stock carb cover. Also I re-jetted the stock carb with a: #200 main jet, #45 slow jet, #N65C jet needle.
I kept the stock mufflers But, I drilled out the plate that is located about half way into the mufflers with a 1 1/4 hole saw, these mufflers are still fairly quiet yet "Sound Amazing" (kind of a quieter sounding version of the Rinehart's Slip-on's) and when I throttle up it gets pretty loud.

I want to Thank Everyone for all the great input on this site. It has been extremely helpful for me!!
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  #17  
Old 3rd August 2019
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Just my thoughts since I had to change my bearings / races last winter. Got 60k on original , with bearings dry and races marked and rust from factory. When I was setting the torque by the 06 manual I also had the top pinch bolts (loose) so the entire top trip. tree could move. If you leave them tight I don't think you would get the true torque. (My thoughts)
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  #18  
Old 3rd August 2019
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hbsporty -
Good to know Sir.
I did Not have the front end lifted when I tightened down the Steering Head nut. I will lift the front end & loosen and re-tighten as you suggested.

Update:

I lifted the front end up slightly, loosened the Steering Stem Nut about 1 full turn, pumped in a few more pumps of grease until the grease oozed out of the Bottom of the Steering Stem as well as the top, then re-tightend the Steering Stem Nut to approximately 80-100 ft lbs tq.

Took the bike for a ride and the steering felt a Lot Better, the bike stayed straight when crossing side to side, through the grooves on the highway, from one lane to the next (no wobble) . Before I re-greased and re-tightened the Steering Stem the bike would kind of Wobble when crossing through those same grooves on the highway.
I am very happy with the Results!!

Thank You All. for all the information that is on this site so that we can do our own work!!
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