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  #11  
Old 22nd July 2019
steveolds steveolds is offline
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I'm even more confused now. I grounded to battery-loom still flashes. Wired flasher in every possible combination- only works as you stated in above diagram-L line out, B+ accessory in, E- ground. Checking flasher line out with switch off indicates line out is flashing steadily and regularly. As soon as switch is on ( either right or left) the whole loom flashes.

Now, it has begun to play a new game. Now when I activate either right or left, BOTH R and L flash AND the loom still flashes. What the actual f%^k? I have wired several bikes and NEVER had these issues. Could my switch be bad? Still doesn't explain the whole loom flashing. Maybe somewhere deep in the covered harness something has gone wonky. Could the flasher itself be defective? If I have to I'll strip the whole harness and eliminate this silly Brown/Violet/W/V, W/B business.

Also, there seems to be some differences in the wiring you drew and the wiring actuall in the switch. I confirmed the Ebay seller listed the switch as an 02 Buell Blast P3 500 Left Hand Control Switch Turn Signal. I redrew your diagram to accurately reflect the wiring colors and location. The R/B and B/W wires run from the common W/G, which powers both sides of the switch. The slider diverts the load to either R or L. So as you can see the switch has TWO commons. Could this be anything bad? It worked correctly before it went crazy and both sides started flashing. heck I don't know WTF

There is a picture of the switch in the first post clearly showing the two commons and the L/R wires.
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  #12  
Old 23rd July 2019
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Your switch does not match wire color to the 2002 Buell Blast FSM... That creates confusion here...

Did you use a multimeter (ohms - continuity) to verify which wires actually are functional with the turn signal switch???

I'm fairly certain there should ONLY BE THREE WIRES related to the TS switch - It looks like MAYBE your switch uses BLUE/WhiteStripe as the common, with BROWN for RIGHT and VIOLET for LEFT... No other wires should be part of the TS circuit --- It would be highly unlikely that they used two common wires to feed the Right & Left switch separately <---- HIGHLY UNLIKELY!!!

I'll continue to look for a manual that matches your switch...

Meter out the contacts & find the wires that actually are for the TS switch - Then post exactly the wire colors you found for Common & for Right & Left...

If you don't know how to do this, I'll post a detailed description of checking the switch...


Do you have a VIOLET/BrownStripe wire?


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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 23rd July 2019 at 03:25..
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  #13  
Old 23rd July 2019
steveolds steveolds is offline
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Ill try the Blue/W as the only common and try the multimeter thing. If it is the Blue/W wire, I wonder what happens to the Red/Blue wire in there? Heck, perhaps it's not even a Buell switch. Sellers get it wrong sometimes. If it is a Buell switch, I wonder why there are so many contacts on that switch? If I cant get it going soon Ill just use aftermarket switches. Too bad, I really wanted the Buell stuff, although the aftermarkets don't have nearly as much going on in them.
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  #14  
Old 23rd July 2019
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From your pictures, I could not find any Buell schematic that shows a BLACK/RedStripe wire being used - that does not mean it's not a Buell switch, but one of the wires they identify as BLACK might have been replaced with a BLACK/RedStripe wire...

It looks like the horn is using an ORANGE/White wire and a YELLOW/Black wire - that matches some of the schematics...

But there _are_ other wires beyond what your pictures shows - Right? They should be for the Headlight Switch which is also on that control...

And, there's a clutch switch (with two wires) on that control somewhere, right?

Maybe post a complete picture of all the wires and all sides of the control...

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  #15  
Old 23rd July 2019
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Ok I've about had it. Here is a picture of the switch internals. The White/Red and Blue/Yellow go to the clutch switch and are disconnected. The Yellow(low)/White(High)/Blue wires are for the Hi'lo switch ( works correctly), the Yellow/Blk and Orange wires are the horn ( works correctly). I disconnected the red/blk wire that is a shred common, and the switch would only work on the powered side. I reconnected the red/black and the switch has power to both sides but is still flashing loom and both signals.


It HAS to be the switch. If the turn circuit is indeed seperate from the balance of the loom ( with an accessory wire the only shared wire) then it MUST be the switch gone bad and allowing power through both sides.

I'll get another switch and we will see whats up. That's all I know how to do now. If that doesnt work I'll just go aftermarket switches and rewire the whole damn turn signal circuit

Last edited by steveolds; 23rd July 2019 at 16:49.. Reason: add image
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  #16  
Old 23rd July 2019
steveolds steveolds is offline
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Just ran switch through multi meter. Here is a crude diagram of my test. MM was tested to 0 ohms at probes. MM indicated 1 ohm at rest.
Test 1: switch off, probes on commons. ) 0 ohms, 1 ohm on L and R terminals
Test 2: Switch on to right, probes on common and brown. 0 ohms,
test 3: Switch ton to left, probes on R/B common and violet, 0 ohms
Test 4: Switch on to right, probes to commons and Brown AND violet, both sides 0 ohms.
If i read my instructions right when the switch to right is on, there should be 0 ohms on right and 1 ohm at left and vise-versa. Since both sides are reading 0 ohms when switched either right or left, is this an indicator of a bad switch?

Last edited by steveolds; 23rd July 2019 at 17:19.. Reason: image
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  #17  
Old 23rd July 2019
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Ha ha, the fun never stops around here. Tried a known good switch from a Suzuki DR350. It also has dual commons as shown in pics. Hooked to flasher without signals, working perfectly L and R. Added in turn signal system from Sportster, same flipping problem. Loom flashing, both signals flashing, too fast, the whole enchilada. That leads me to believe the problem lies somewhere in the Sportster loom.
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  #18  
Old 23rd July 2019
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More extensive testing is required...
EDIT: Just saw your last post - You can skip the Switch Test for the moment and do the Wiring Test...

Testing the Switch

The switch must be disconnected from everything
I'm assuming the switch has 3 positions - Yes?
Push Left - Middle (off) - Push Right

In reporting the meter readings,
Use the letter 'Y' to mean continuity (0-ohms)
Use the letter 'N' to mean open (infinity-ohms)

Put Black Probe on BLUE/White wire - Keep it there
Put Red Probe on RED/Black wire - Keep it there

Report reading with:
01: Switch in Middle (idle) --
02: Switch in Rt Turn --------
03: Switch in Lt Turn --------

Leave Black Probe on BLUE/White wire
Put Red Probe on VIOLET wire - Keep it there

Report reading with:
11: Switch in Middle (idle) --
12: Switch in Rt Turn --------
13: Switch in Lt Turn --------

Leave Black Probe on BLUE/White wire
Put Red Probe on BROWN wire - Keep it there

Report reading with:
21: Switch in Middle (idle) --
22: Switch in Rt Turn --------
23: Switch in Lt Turn --------


Move Black Probe to RED/Black wire - Keep it there
Put Red Probe on VIOLET wire - Keep it there

Report reading with:
31: Switch in Middle (idle) --
32: Switch in Rt Turn --------
33: Switch in Lt Turn --------

Leave Black Probe on RED/Black wire
Put Red Probe on BROWN wire - Keep it there

Report reading with:
41: Switch in Middle (idle) --
42: Switch in Rt Turn --------
43: Switch in Lt Turn --------


Move Black Probe to VIOLET wire - Keep it there
Put Red Probe on BROWN wire - Keep it there

Report reading with:
51: Switch in Middle (idle) --
52: Switch in Rt Turn --------
53: Switch in Lt Turn --------


Testing the wiring on the bike:

Disconnect the switch. Turn the keyswitch ON.
Use the wires you disconnected from the switch.


Short together ONLY the WHITE/Green and WHITE/Violet wires:
70: Did ONLY the LEFT side TS lights flash?
71: If not, what was flashing? (Be specific)

Short together ONLY the WHITE/Green and WHITE/Brown wires:
80: Did ONLY the RIGHT side TS lights flash?
81: If not, what was flashing? (Be specific)

Short together the WHITE/Green and WHITE/Violet...
........... and WHITE/Brown wires (3 wires together):

90: Did BOTH the LEFT & RIGHT side TS lights flash?
91: If not, what was flashing? (Be specific)


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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 23rd July 2019 at 19:00..
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  #19  
Old 23rd July 2019
steveolds steveolds is offline
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Ok Im almost certain the switch is bad. I hooked straight power to both commons and when I activated either R or L current flowed to BOTH R and L. I tried same on the DR350 switch and it behaved as normal, power to L OR R as switched. OOOps just saw post above. Ill go see whats happening
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  #20  
Old 23rd July 2019
steveolds steveolds is offline
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Just did the wire test. G/W to violet: both flash.. G/W to brown: both flash G/×W to both: both flash
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