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drag bar, drag bar install, how to

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  #21  
Old 2nd January 2009
09 blackthunder 09 blackthunder is offline
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My question is when I try torqueing down my screws on the speedo mount. It seems like they don't want to torque all the way down even though drag bar is flushbetween the risers and the speedo mount. Not like the stock bar. Any ideas on how to screw it down flush so the speedo mount touches the risers?

Thanks
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  #22  
Old 1st February 2009
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Great post. I'm about to change out my standard bars on my 04 sporty for drag bars and 4 1/4" risers I am purchasing from this site. Anything else I should know b4 I begin?
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  #23  
Old 24th February 2009
351 sporty 351 sporty is offline
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This is very helpful. I am thinking about changing to drag bars from my mini-apes. Will the cables for the mini-apes work on the drag bars for a short time to see if I like the drag bars? I know they will be goofy looking, but I hate to change them out before I know if I like it.
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  #24  
Old 25th February 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 351 sporty View Post
This is very helpful. I am thinking about changing to drag bars from my mini-apes. Will the cables for the mini-apes work on the drag bars for a short time to see if I like the drag bars? I know they will be goofy looking, but I hate to change them out before I know if I like it.
Only one way to find out!!

The 883L bars that I had to begin with are probably the next step down from mini-apes. And the cables worked for me. I imagine the clutch and throttle cables will be the biggest problems/concerns. But for testing, you ought to be able to figure out something.
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  #25  
Old 12th March 2009
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"First things first, put a piece of cardboard in the levers. The first time I read that somewhere online I thought people were joking. After reading a million threads about guys wrecking their brake light switches I've concluded they are NOT joking. All it takes is a little paper or card board wadded up and stuck in behind the lever. On 2007 and newer bikes you'll want to do this on both levers as they have a switch on the clutch side (older bikes just do the brake/throttle side). The point of this is there is a little contact switch that makes contact with the lever when it is completely released. You want to hold the lever slightly depressed while moving things around so this little switch's tit doesn't get broken off. I used the cardboard from a oil filter box folded up a couple of times"



Hello all.

can someone explain this to me a little bit? i'm kinda lost on this step. my drag bars should be here next week and i will be attempting the install myself.

Great write up by the way.
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  #26  
Old 12th March 2009
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southflasportster southflasportster is offline
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Like Dan said there is a little contact switch that makes contact with the lever when it is completely released. You want to hold the lever slightly depressed while moving things around so this little switch's tit doesn't get broken off.

It doesn't mean that you have to physically hold the lever you simply stuff a small piece of paper between the lever and the housing. I circled it in red so you can see it a little better.



Nothing high tech about this, basically stuff a piece of paper in there and you're good. Hope that clears it up.

Dont be afraid of this, I just swapped out my stock bars for a 27" Set of drag bars last night and it was easy. Follow Dans Directions and you will be fine. He did a great job explaining things!

By the way DAN THIS BUDS FOR YOU MY MAN! Had a printout of your instructions while I swapped out my bars last night and it was a great help! Thanks again! Sending some well deserved rep your way!
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  #27  
Old 12th March 2009
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thank you for the clarification, i guess i was looking for the sensor and couldnt find it. i will be posting the drag bars once installed, it will be on the new Iron 883.
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  #28  
Old 12th March 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iron Dandee View Post
can someone explain this to me a little bit? i'm kinda lost on this step. my drag bars should be here next week and i will be attempting the install myself.
I think southflasportster did a good job articulating what I was trying to say. You just want to jamb something between the lever and the housing to keep it slightly depressed (doesn't take much). Once you get the brake lever off, you'll clearly see there is a little nub of a switch in the switch housing. That's what you don't want to break off while reassembling.
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  #29  
Old 13th March 2009
Iron Dandee Iron Dandee is offline
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One more thing guys, did yall have a problem removing the clutch side grips?

or should i buy new ones before i install the bars?
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  #30  
Old 13th March 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 09 blackthunder View Post
My question is when I try torqueing down my screws on the speedo mount. It seems like they don't want to torque all the way down even though drag bar is flushbetween the risers and the speedo mount. Not like the stock bar. Any ideas on how to screw it down flush so the speedo mount touches the risers?

Thanks
add a washer under the head of the fastener.
Not sure if that will help you - but when I installed a new bar top clamp, my bolts wouldn't tighten down enough either cuz they were ever so slightly too long. A washer under the heads fixed it. Now the ends of those bolts don't hit up against the end of the bore before snugging down fully on the top clamp.
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