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  #51  
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These engines can idle as low as 7-800 rpm. Don't do that though, it's too low.

I the timing isn't right, then no, t won't idle/run properly. Thebike only needs to ve able to run at 2000 rpm to set the ignition with a timing light. A timing light s the only real way to set the timing. Static timing only gets you close. It should be 40 BTDC at 2000 RPM

If you have compression over 120 PSI on both cylinders and you have the timing set correctly and the idle circuit is working the bike will happily idle at 1000 rom.

Again, the idle speed is NOT set with the idle screw. The idle speed isset with the stop screw on the throttle.
I suspectthat if you turn out your idle screw another 3/4 turns things will change.
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  #52  
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Again, thanks for sticking with me on this. Most of you guys, if not all way above, are above my technical level on these bikes. I have done some partial carb rebuilds on old Chevy Nova's but real basic stuff like replacing needle seat that controls gas flow to bowl, replacing gaskets, etc. With this bike, which is about the same age as the Nova's (73) I really don't know what I'm doing, except in principle, and don't want to mess something up in the process.

Anyway, I don't think the increased diameter fuel line did it, just temporary. Bike will start right up, run for a minute or so then shuts down. I still believe it is fuel flow. I hit the bowl with screw driver handle let it set for a bit, then it fires right back up. Before tapping the bowl like that it would not always fire right back up. FLOAT "appears" to be sticking, my best guess, which someone already said.

I put some carb cleaner/lubricator in tank, but is there something you all would recommend if I go that easy route? If not I need to disassemble this 73 Bendix carburetor. If there is any critical advice on how to do that, and then resealing it back up, please let me know. Thanks again!
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  #53  
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There’s really nothing to taking a bendix carb apart if you feel that’s what it needs. Way simpler than what you had on that nova, I’m sure. After all, it’s just a handful of screws. Don’t over tighten the main jet tube, it can crack the float bowl.

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I am still pretty sure it's just the needle/seat. That's probably all you need to look at inside the carb. Cheap enough to buy a replac,emt. Probably just the needle in fact. Willing to bet it's a "viton" tipped needle.
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  #55  
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Have you checked for power to the coil? (Test light)

Maybe a Circuit Breaker or something is opening up?

If it is a fuel issue it would slow and sputter to a stop, and electrical issue will shut it off clean (usually).
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  #56  
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The float spring can be installed in such a way that it will actually cause the float to push upwards against the needle instead of acting as a helper to drop the float.
.......Davi.
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Thanks guys, will check it out. If I get a definite fix, will let you know. Lots of experience on here, really appreciate it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davixlrtt View Post
The float spring can be installed in such a way that it will actually cause the float to push upwards against the needle instead of acting as a helper to drop the float.
.......Davi.
got my vote, the wire leg on the spring needs to be down on the inside of the bowl, also sounds as if the pilot circuit is plugged, my favorite carb is the bendix on ironheads and shovelheads, if done correctly it'll turn up to 5,500 rpm in 4th gear and that's hauling ass hahahahahaha, most of the aftermarket kits have junk parts though, if you can find the superior kit they work well, or get the more expensive us made bendix zenith kit.
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  #59  
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Right, with zenith fuel systems still being in business, I’d go for the original. Then you know it’s right. Price isnt such a big deal when it’s likely to be the last rebuild kit it ever needs.
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