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  #41  
Old 22nd April 2018
Will1250 Will1250 is online now
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Question for those who have actually used synthetic oil in their primary/transmission: can you leave it in there for a longer service interval than dino oil?

Note: I have no experience with synthetics and am contemplating this step.

cheers, Will
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  #42  
Old 23rd April 2018
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ed_in_az ed_in_az is offline
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I've used HD Syn3 in all my Sportsters. It's certified for both engine and primary. 5k mile changes for motor and 10k for primary.
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  #43  
Old 24th April 2018
Will1250 Will1250 is online now
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Thank you for that information Sir.

Cheers, Will
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  #44  
Old 24th April 2018
shanneba shanneba is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Will1250 View Post
Question for those who have actually used synthetic oil in their primary/transmission: can you leave it in there for a longer service interval than dino oil?
I've run Red Line Synthetics in my primary / transmission and had them analysed.
Primary/Trans UOAs-
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1968824

Blackstone has a Universal average mileage for Sportster Primary/Trans UOAs of ~ 5700 miles so it seems like many users change the primary/trans every 5000 miles.
The universal Averages for Sportster engine oil is ~ 2500 miles.

I have not extended the engine or primary/trans oil change interval. Harley recommends an engine oil change every 5000 miles and the primary/trans every 10,000 miles.
(after the 1000 mile break in)
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  #45  
Old 25th April 2018
Will1250 Will1250 is online now
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Thanx, and good to know the average distances. So if I keep up my usual routine of 4000km engine (with scavenge) and 8000km primary/trans I should be right on the money even with synthetics.

Cheers, will
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  #46  
Old 25th April 2018
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just thought I would mention my findings.
I had a 2001 dyna twin cam from new, then took the step up to a 2003 XLH 1200,
I ran Redline heavy shockproof gear oil in GB in Dyna it was the best you don't change it shifts the best too, but can't use in the XLH as would not work with the clutch. but I used Redline MT in my sporty primary GB clutch worked great it shifted nice too. then we had a change of hands in Redline importer here in Australia can't seem to buy it ( over counter) now. so I have been using Belray Sport seems ok but the Redline was better. I've just got stock sporty clutch plates I like them won't be changing as got talked into using energy one with my Buell and not as happy with them as stock. I'll need to take spring plate out and use one extra plate one extra steel, want to stay with stock not sure if I can. but friend has surface grinder if the pack too thick.
anyone put extra stock plate in?
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  #47  
Old 25th April 2018
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I truly believe that the primary really doesn't give a sh!t what oil you put in it, as long as there is something slippery...

Over the past 26 years and 87,000 miles on my reliable little 883, I've used HD's Sport Trans Fluid, Mercon ATF, M1 20W50 engine oil, 75W140 synthetic gear lube, and probably a few others that I've long since forgotten.
Look at what's in that case - straight cut gears, bearings, and a wet clutch. Keep things submersed in a clean, quality oil and our transmissions seem to be just fine.

Just my $.02
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  #48  
Old 25th April 2018
sml1226 sml1226 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myrl883 View Post
I truly believe that the primary really doesn't give a sh!t what oil you put in it, as long as there is something slippery...

Over the past 26 years and 87,000 miles on my reliable little 883, I've used HD's Sport Trans Fluid, Mercon ATF, M1 20W50 engine oil, 75W140 synthetic gear lube, and probably a few others that I've long since forgotten.
Look at what's in that case - straight cut gears, bearings, and a wet clutch. Keep things submersed in a clean, quality oil and our transmissions seem to be just fine.

Just my $.02
Your charging system is in there too. That's the only thing (outside of some aftermarket clutches) that are likely to care what you put in there.

Some sulfur additives can eat away at things in there and kill it. Your gears, chain, etc. probably don't care, but those wires may not be happy with some of the fluids out there.

Plenty of fluids, even with the EP additives, are safe to use in there. Still, it's worth knowing about it.
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  #49  
Old 25th April 2018
jkinkade jkinkade is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myrl883 View Post
I truly believe that the primary really doesn't give a sh!t what oil you put in it, as long as there is something slippery...

Over the past 26 years and 87,000 miles on my reliable little 883, I've used HD's Sport Trans Fluid, Mercon ATF, M1 20W50 engine oil, 75W140 synthetic gear lube, and probably a few others that I've long since forgotten.
Look at what's in that case - straight cut gears, bearings, and a wet clutch. Keep things submersed in a clean, quality oil and our transmissions seem to be just fine.

Just my $.02
That is very true with a stock 883. I forgot to mention my 2001 twin cam I had tuned it & drag raced. the heavy shock proof redline was magic in the gear box but a really thick ( I mean even would be hard to drain out. it would be a disaster in primary.
I'm not saying most oils won't work , but some oils just make the gear box shift without effort, others don't & a thick oil loads clutch up you will get a bang putting into gear cold. light oil the clutch works much better.
the chain just likes oil.
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  #50  
Old 25th April 2018
jkinkade jkinkade is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sml1226 View Post
Your charging system is in there too. That's the only thing (outside of some aftermarket clutches) that are likely to care what you put in there.

Some sulfur additives can eat away at things in there and kill it. Your gears, chain, etc. probably don't care, but those wires may not be happy with some of the fluids out there.

Plenty of fluids, even with the EP additives, are safe to use in there. Still, it's worth knowing about it.
That's a very important point too!!
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