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  #11  
Old 7th April 2018
hoboandy hoboandy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportytrace View Post
Others have suggested contacting Hammer perf, even just their common mistakes section on installing kits might provide some guidance before calling them: https://www.1250kits.com/ttinstallkit.shtml#More
Thanks for this link, it was very insightful. I'm starting to think it would have been a good idea to go ahead and change the displacement to something slightly larger in the fuelpak app seeing as how I am pulling quite a bit more air. I would have rather needed to adjust for a too rich engine than a too lean engine to be on the safe side. Thanks again for the great replies.
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  #12  
Old 16th April 2018
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  #13  
Old 24th April 2018
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Sorry to hear about your troubles! Hope you can get everything worked out and back on the road.

What's the next step? Keep us posted on the progress.
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  #14  
Old 25th April 2018
hoboandy hoboandy is offline
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Hey guys, I've gone with the Hammer 1250 flat top pistons and cylinders. Still going to be using the SE 575 cams as well. I've put it all together and so far it seems to be working well. Ive also been watching the temperature closely. My one issue is that I have a ticking or tapping noise in the top end on the left side. It doesn't happen at idle, only when above 2000 rpm or so. It is very noticeable when decelerating in gear (little exhaust noise). Seems quiet as it slows and ticks from about 3000 down to 2000 rpm. I went ahead and got new lifters just in case the old ones had a bunch of metal in them and I've checked all the clearances and nothing is hitting. I used a dremel to clean up some areas in the rocker boxes as well where the springs may have been rubbing. I even went as far as to put the stock cams back in it and it still ticks. I also retarded the timing a couple degrees in those ranges and still no change.

From here I'm thinking it could be the valve springs. Getting up to nearly 500 degrees may have weakened them and they can't keep up with the cams.
Other possibilities - I need adjustable pushrods, broken or binding valve spring, sticking or bent valve, loose or worn valve guide. Not sure if these would cause that but I will be tearing it apart again tomorrow and will let you guys know what I find.

To give this some background, it did not tick after it was initially built (before it overheated). After about the first 150 miles it began to tick and got worse the more I drove it. This makes me think it is something due to the fact that it overheated (like springs, lifters, metal in oil) and not something like clearance issues. Again, it did it with the stock cams too. Now after the second rebuild the tick remains.

Any advice on this is much appreciated. Thanks all.
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  #15  
Old 25th April 2018
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Get some rocker sleeve for the bolts, they will get rid of the ticking.
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  #16  
Old 25th April 2018
shanneba shanneba is offline
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Here is a link to the rocker lockers mentioned above-

http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/spor...-dk-rl-spt.htm
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  #17  
Old 12th June 2018
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Ok guys, as I stated above, I've gone with Hammer 1250 kit for the sporty. To protect it I've also gone with the dynojet powervision and had the guys at Hammer make me a starting tune. It now seems to be running cooler during the break in and seems better altogether. However, it still ticks. This is most noticeable when decelerating in gear. It is primarily coming from the left side of the engine. As stated before, the ticking was not present before and steadily got worse and worse as the bike was overheating. Now it ticks on startup, cold, hot, etc. I've already put the rocker lockers in place to see if they change it but they don't. My only thoughts on it are below.
The valve springs could be weakened from the overheating.
The pushrods need replaced with adjustables (mine are not bent or anything, I checked)
Valves are sticking in the guides.
The rod bearings are now loose on the crank and are bouncing around (possible option because the noise is worse when the engine is on its way back down from higher rpms, whether in gear or not)

Keep in mind, everything worked on the bike in this configuration besides the fuelpak tune being too advanced/lean etc. and there was no ticking until it overheated.

Just to add, it seems like the ticking occurs at the same frequency as the pistons or firing. And with the jugs off I pressure lubed the oil system and verified the squirters were working and oil was coming out of the rod bearings/flywheel area. All seems to be working fine.

Any and all help is much appreciated. Thanks again all.

Last edited by hoboandy; 12th June 2018 at 15:51.. Reason: forgot to mention info
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  #18  
Old 12th June 2018
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Forged pistons can be quite a bit louder when cold than stock cast pistons. It's quite alarming if you're not aware of it.
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