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Sportster Motorcycle Air intake, Carburetor, EFI, Fuel, and Exhaust Problems, advice and/or how tos for Sporster and Buell motorcycle carburators, Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), Air Intake, Fuel and Exhaust.

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  #1  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
SeaCur SeaCur is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: Sportster 1200 XLC
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Thumbs up 98 just upgraded to 1250 from 1200

Cv carb, 45/185 jets, Arlen Ness intake, n4 cams, stock pipes without baffles

Bike starts and runs with enrichment/choke full to 1/2ish after warm, any further in and bike will die. Idle screw remained the same before and after 1250 install. I rotated idle air mixture screw out first 3 turns then to 3.5 and it still died. I ran the bike a couple miles after the heat cycles, then a mile run then two mile run hoping I could turn off choke and it died.

I guess my first try tomorrow is to check for air leaks in the intake yes? I do hear a lot more air moving, I figured it to be because I'm in fact moving a lot more air but maybe it's a leak?

Thank you in advance! I'm excited to start working on my first 500 miles, only 497 to go.
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  #2  
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That would be the first place I'd start. Figure out the issue before putting any more miles on. Keeping the heat down is critical.
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  #3  
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Well it's late and I haven't started the bike but it looks like the back bolts on my intake manifold were sort of loose. Horn bracket is in the way so I used vise grips wrapped in electrical tape to tighten those up... fingers crossed that was the issue. Idle air screw is back at 2.5 turns. I honestly can't find a good starting point so if someone can chime in there I'd appreciate it.
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Short pieces of cut off 1/4 allen and a box end 12 pt wrench can get into some tight spaces.
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My 1/4 Allen is about as short on the end as possible and was having a hard time getting atoms the horn bracket and fuel hose. I wasn't about to take the tank off again. They're plenty snug now and the carb definitely feels tight. Fingers crossed for tomorrow riding to work.

Again, any chiming in about the idle mixture screw with cv performance needle would be appreciated. ����
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Here's the Sportsterpedia page on the CV40 Carb - Lots of reading - Lots of Information to help you get a solid tune:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:evo:carb02

Be sure the carb is aligned with the manifold BEFORE bolting it down...

Use propane to check for air leaks (around carb to manifold & manifold to heads)...

Be sure the vacuum hoses are solid - not cracked or brittle or torn (carb to vacuum petcock & carb to VOES) - not leaking air...

Read over this section:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...ting_air_leaks

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  #7  
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I read that. I guess I should have known the screw would probably be the same starting point since you're looking for that sweet spot in the middle. Without a tach I had no luck doing the idle drop method when I rejetted before, but I'll give it a go again. I'm only guessing at rpms right now.
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Idle too low??? yes, seen it before... and the guy was wondering why his bike stopped... got my leatherman out, 1/4 turn into the Idle screw and all sorted... his face was like WTF!!!
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Yep, that was it. Easy ride to work, bike idled fine off choke, though I think slightly high.

Ordered a tachometer last night on amazon, will have tomorrow to check my idle and adjust the mixture screw better.
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