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Sportster Motorcycle Custom Finishing Here is where you can discuss various ways of customizing your Sportster motorcycle or Buell motorcycle.

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  #21  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
Hugh Jasol Hugh Jasol is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200C
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Well, I was really close to just stripping it off and starting over but I decided I might as well go ahead and test the clear coat to see what kind of reaction it would have with the color coat. So I sprayed the 2k clear over the rattlecan paint yesterday. There didn't appear to be any immediate problems with wrinkling or anything like that. It actually looks like it might be OK for now. A month from now, who knows. But in the short term it seems to be fine.

But, what the clear did do was highlight a lot of the small blemishes in the color coat. I thought I could live with these minor imperfections, but now that I see them with the clear coat, they are going to drive me insane because I know I could have done better. The masking tape damaged the paint more than I realized. I should have used some sort of intercoat clear before taping it off for the graphics.

So I think I am going to go ahead and strip the tank back down to bare metal and start over. This time, I am going to try something. IF THIS IS A BAD IDEA, SOMEBODY PLEASE STOP ME FROM WASTING MY TIME.

The rattle can paint that I used was Krylon Cover Maxx. The primer I used was duplicolor sandable primer. There didn't seem to be any noticeable reaction between the Krylon and the primer, nor the Krylon and the Spraymax 2K. So, since there wasn't a noticeable reaction with the Kylon top coat and the 2K clear, it seems to me to be reasonable to expect that there would not be a problem using the same line of Krylon, except this time using a clear single stage Krylon clear as an intercoat to protect the base color before I tape it off.

So, my plan is to strip the tank back to bare metal. Primer it the same way I did before. Sand the primer with 400 grit to smooth out any blemishes in the raw metal. Then apply the first color coats with the Krylon. Once Ive got the first color looking decent, Im going to shoot a coat of Krylon clear. Let that dry enough to tape off the design for the graphics, then shoot the second color that makes up the graphics. Then Im going to shoot the entire thing with the spraymax 2k clear to protect it from gas spills.

Has anyone tried something like this? Am I wrong to assume that a single stage clear will have the same reaction to the 2K clear as colored paint if they are from the same line/brand of products?
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  #22  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
Hugh Jasol Hugh Jasol is offline
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I should mention that I don't have an air compressor, so I have to use rattle cans. Either that, or pay someone else to paint it which I really don't want to do.
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  #23  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Imperfections are technically better taken care of with Bondo. Metal tanks can be pulled, stretched, bent and then welded depending on the desired shape during construction. This does not yield a desired finish-able surface.

Bondo is used to smooth out rough out of round areas on bare metal. Then the primary goes on. Although primer isn't necessary over the bondo after it has been sanded smooth, it does 'adjust' the texture to feather back into the non bondo'd areas where the primer is necessary.

Wet sanding over the entire piece after the primer is dry (or simply running water over it) will reveal any other areas that might not be pleasing to the eye before the base coat is applied.

I'm sure this is probably not the best scenario, but paint (base or clear) can be added over the existing imperfections and then wet sanded back down where not needed. Basically building up around the imperfections and sanding away the other areas. This is what I did with mine. : http://sportsterpedia.com/lib/exe/fe...fired_tins.jpg
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  #24  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Lone Rider Lone Rider is offline
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The red oxide on my tank is duplicolor primer filler for heavy scratches, it lays down perfect and dries fast, used the entire can looked so good thats why I left it like that, any way, after I layed that on let it cure, light sanding with 2000 grit, then used krylon clear as an intercoat, let cure for four days in a very hot storage shed, lightly sanded with 2000 grit, I used 3m fine line tape to lay down the flames, and the spaces between the flames I used a yellow low stick tape that I purchased from an auto paint store, had 0 issues with paint lifting off with the tape (I credit that with the intercoat clear), again patients, let each coat cure out before you start taping things off.
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  #25  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
Hugh Jasol Hugh Jasol is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lone Rider View Post
The red oxide on my tank is duplicolor primer filler for heavy scratches, it lays down perfect and dries fast, used the entire can looked so good thats why I left it like that, any way, after I layed that on let it cure, light sanding with 2000 grit, then used krylon clear as an intercoat, let cure for four days in a very hot storage shed, lightly sanded with 2000 grit, I used 3m fine line tape to lay down the flames, and the spaces between the flames I used a yellow low stick tape that I purchased from an auto paint store, had 0 issues with paint lifting off with the tape (I credit that with the intercoat clear), again patients, let each coat cure out before you start taping things off.
Thank you so much for the explanation. That's exactly what I was thinking about doing. Using some sort of single stage rattle can clear, like Krylon, as an intercoat so that when I tape off the design it wont mess up the paint. Your tank looks freakin awesome. If get mine looking even close to that good I will be very happy.

I take it you haven't had any issues with the 2k clear adhering properly?
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  #26  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Actually I had a body shop clear coat it, I have used 2K a few years ago on a fender I built, it laid down really good, painted it outside with no mask however I held my breath as I sprayed and made sure I was well clear of any mist before I took a breath and, I wore long sleeves and made every effort to keep it off me, now there was 1 little pin head size flaw in the clear, barley noticeable, after about a year I was blowing the bike off with my air compressor after a ride, got a little to close to the pin head flaw, and the clear just started peeling right off, the fender was a mix of duplicolor engine paint and the zinc coating that came on the fender, the zinc may have been the problem, I did scuff it and applied adhesion promoter, so long story short I felt more comfortable with professional clear ($125).

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