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  #611  
Old 3 Days Ago
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Ferrous Head Ferrous Head is offline
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RKN, your diagram is not quite right. What most people fail to understand with magneto's is that they are AC devices, not DC. As the rotating magnet inside presents both north and south poles of the magnet to the winding's the current reverses direction.
So the current flows out one lead from the cap through first one plug in a cylinder, then the other plug in the same cylinder and back down through the "return" lead into the other side of the cap.
The whole process is them reversed with the current flowing out through the second circuit but of ourse this time (because of the diodes) it takes a path through the rear cylinder.

The reason the Harley engines have that "potato-potato-cough-potato sound that we have all come to love is that at lower revs every now and then a small amount of the incoming charge on the rear cylinder gets ignited with the wasted spark. That "steals" some of the charge for that cylinder on it's next firing as well as providing a small "cough" back through the inlet manifold.
When you eliminate that wasted spark you can hear the difference of the engine at idle.

The sound is very much like the sound of a hot rod engine with a BIG cam in it. I guess that's why we like it.
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  #612  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrous Head View Post
RKN, your diagram is not quite right. What most people fail to understand with magneto's is that they are AC devices, not DC. As the rotating magnet inside presents both north and south poles of the magnet to the winding's the current reverses direction.
So the current flows out one lead from the cap through first one plug in a cylinder, then the other plug in the same cylinder and back down through the "return" lead into the other side of the cap.
The whole process is them reversed with the current flowing out through the second circuit but of ourse this time (because of the diodes) it takes a path through the rear cylinder.

The reason the Harley engines have that "potato-potato-cough-potato sound that we have all come to love is that at lower revs every now and then a small amount of the incoming charge on the rear cylinder gets ignited with the wasted spark. That "steals" some of the charge for that cylinder on it's next firing as well as providing a small "cough" back through the inlet manifold.
When you eliminate that wasted spark you can hear the difference of the engine at idle.

The sound is very much like the sound of a hot rod engine with a BIG cam in it. I guess that's why we like it.
So the diagram should look like this?

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  #613  
Old 2 Days Ago
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While the cylinders are in machine shop getting honed and the heads are getting bored to accept slightly larger fire rings, and all of that then will be installed in the frame for me to understand if the engine will fit into the frame without modifying the frame, so I can then paint it and assemble the chassis so it will look like a sort of a bike, so I will get an inspiration and force my lazy self to start studying custom piston stuff and eventually order them so I can balance and assemble the flywheels and finally start all the "clean" work, I started doing the brake shoe lining as described by Chuck in his thread http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1974040. As always I copied all his posts from that thread without reading too deep, knowing that I will forget 90 % of the info unless I read it while doing the brakes, printed them out and of course I forgot to take it to the garage with me)))

So I did it the way I remembered it:



Biggest challenge was to cut the lining half way deep to accept the rivet head. The drill bit would cut too aggressive, so I used it just to form a larger hole, and then used a 4-flute mill with a hole in the center, occasionally going back to drill bit.



And that was the first time in my life I was doing rivets. Took me 3 hours to do the lining at one shoe, and that doesn't count removing the old linings and cleaning the shoes from rust, which I did earlier. Don't know if I did a good job, but I've bought 2 ft of lining for front and rear brakes, so there's a room for mistakes)))






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looks like the woven linings,good deal.you'll want a tapered edge leading and trailing right?
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  #615  
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This is the diagram to show a dual plug single fire setup.

It can be confusing at first but it does work this way.
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  #616  
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Originally Posted by brucstoudt View Post
looks like the woven linings,good deal.you'll want a tapered edge leading and trailing right?
Made a small mistake - cut the linings to the length of the old ones, maybe just a little longer. Made the first hole for the rivets on the end little off the line, so had to make a new one and the small advantage in length was gone, now the edge of the lining at one end is really close to the rivet heads. Tried to make a small taper with a file, but a file doesn't do a good job. Will use the saw for metal (I forgot what you guys call it in English) but it will be a challenge.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrous Head View Post


This is the diagram to show a dual plug single fire setup.

It can be confusing at first but it does work this way.
Thanks, Ferrous Head!

No, not confusing at all, just 2 diodes in the opposite directions, now I understand. Well, it's always easy to understand the way something was done if you know for sure that it's working, than to invent your own))) Hope I will be able to score those diodes, the first electronics flee market in Moscow failed, one more left.
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