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  #11  
Old 18th March 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuba10jdl View Post
With the CD Load Equalizer it uses almost no extra load so you get the benefit of reduced wattage on your system for the lights.
I haven't read of anyone testing to see what load these modules actually place on the TSM - Did you test that? Know of anyone who has?

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  #12  
Old 19th March 2019
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So - I went searching for an answer to my own question...

It looks to me that Custom Dynamics is using deceptive advertising - Their advertising suggests 'No Load' when in fact their own tech literature states:

Normal Load setting should draw 2.8 Amps
High Load setting should draw 3.8 Amps

The specific model related to the tech info is the GEN2-SS8 (for the CVO models):
https://www.customdynamics.com/8-pin...avidson?cat=59

The tech info is a PDF:
https://customdynamics.zendesk.com/h...ch_Testing.pdf

It looks to me like all the Gen2-xxx models are simply different connectors on the same unit - so I expect all the Gen2-xxx units will similarly show the same current draw...

Edit: I have checked multiple Gen2-xxx literature that confirms all models draw these current amounts.

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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 19th March 2019 at 01:52..
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  #13  
Old 2nd April 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
So - If you have equalizers installed to compensate for the lower current LEDs, the stock rear incandescent bulbs should work just fine...
I have the same set up. LEDs upfront with a load EQ wired in, stock filament bulbs in the rear. And I have the same issue.

Everything worked fine until I wired in the LED and load EQ.

I'd be interested to see how this plays out as I'm working through the same thing. I'm going to have the rear LED tail lights soon and rear this theory out.
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  #14  
Old 2nd April 2019
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Here's the diagram I created for the Sportsterpedia - Notice where the load equalizers are wired into the circuits...

Typically, you need one 6-ohm, 50-watt resistor for each bulb that you remove from (or use LED in) the system... If you replace only the front bulbs, then one 6-ohm, 50-watt resistor should be installed on each TS line (Violet & Brown)...

That should create an equivalent load on the Turn Signal Module to function properly...



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  #15  
Old 2nd April 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuba10jdl View Post
The problem with adding resistors is you then keep the current draw of the OEM lights. With the CD Load Equalizer it uses almost no extra load so you get the benefit of reduced wattage on your system for the lights. You're also opening up the wiring, soldering in some resistors, etc. Lots of work.

The load equalizer is also stupid easy to install on this bike as it has connectors that plug in line with the current connectors (does not need programmed, not sure what you're getting at). At most you need to click the turn signals a few times if you have security. That's it.
the TSM works on current draw so cannot work properly without the load of the bulbs, thats what the Load Equalizer does, it's designed to draw the same as a bulb, as LED's draw vey little current the TSM doesnt work, the newer TSM's dont work on current draw, so you can just fit LED's without anything else
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Old 5th April 2019
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On mine the load equalizer runs about 50% less amperage than the original bulbs. So considering that, I still stand by saying it uses almost no extra load than necessary to do the job.
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  #17  
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Still curious how this is going. I got mine worked out.

My issue ended up being a faulty load EQ from ThunderBikes. It wires literally starting falling off the unit.. I put in a Badlands unit and everything works great. I'm still running LED up front and filament in the rear...
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