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  #31  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADK XL View Post
I got 3/4 turn on battery negative, need to pop the seat for battery positive...busy with tires momentarily...

1/4 turn on the battery positve.
This may not be sufficient if you did not tug hard on the cables at both ends to see if the internal wires are corroded or already broken - Tightening the ends is necessary, but the cable itself must also be verified as solid... It appears the main harness has a ring lugged cable at the battery positive post as well...

There is a ground strap between the frame and the engine which parallels the torsion bar under the engine... That strap & both ends also need to be verified solid...

And, of course, there is the main harness ground...

On all ground connections, I like to use a copper-based antiseize compound to increase the conductivity of the connection (never on powered connections though)...

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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 3 Weeks Ago at 15:35..
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  #32  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Not sure if you're still trying to solve your issue.

Try disconnecting the single red/black wire that goes to the starter solenoid, turn the ignition on and check for battery voltage when you press the starter.
If you've no voltage then remove the main fuse and disconnect the Body Control module block connectors. I've seen a couple accumulate small amounts of water in them, so give a quick check for that even though they're supposed to be water resistant connectors.

You'll have to find the other side of that red/ black wire in the main BCM connector and with the wire going to the starter solenoid also disconnected you should do a resistance check after zeroing the meter. Anything under 0.5 ohms is fine.
Also check that the wire isn't grounding.
There are also voltage drop tests that you can carry out but I've yet to see there be an issue on that wire and the majority of the time the problem stems from the BCM itself failing. A fairly expensive item and being a 2017 it'll be worth the dealer sorting out.
A smaller percentage have been due to failed right hand switch gear modules. Again, pretty expensive.
In the short term it might be worth carrying a piece of wire that you can use between the starter solenoid red/black wire connector and battery positive as that will circumvent the starter system and provide direct power to the starter. Not the easiest thing on a Sportster to do but at least you'll be able to get out and ride.

Just as a side note, try pulling in the clutch lever and putting the side stand up just in case there is an intermittent issue in the starter lock out circuit.
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  #33  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbee View Post
In the short term it might be worth carrying a piece of wire that you can use between the starter solenoid red/black wire connector and battery positive as that will circumvent the starter system and provide direct power to the starter. Not the easiest thing on a Sportster to do but at least you'll be able to get out and ride.
Have you done this on a newer (CAN Bus) bike? I've been curious if that would actually start the bike, or if the ECM/BCM would balk at the engine starting without the proper starter button being depressed. And, would bump starting (rolling/dump clutch) work? I know bump starting worked just fine on my 2007. When my 2016 didn't want to start these thoughts all came to mind. But, it started a few minutes later with just the regular button push.
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  #34  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Never mind.
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  #35  
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Thanks jbee, lot’s of good leads to follow up on! Last time it happened (Friday) my normal(?) fix didn’t make a difference. Bike on sidestand grabbed the clutch, then it slipped from my fingers and snapped to the released position, hit the starter and away it went. Been starting properly since... Also now 2 codes, 62121 and 62262. As I get time I will follow up with the direction you have given me, thanks again!
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  #36  
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My starting issue seems to have 'dried' up, which leads me to believe my aggressive hose nozzle may have been my problem. I will use a different nozzle and ride as the season at best is in the last quarter here. Further digging (and waterproofing) will happen over the winter, with a cross country trip out west is on the schedule for next summer...
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  #37  
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...I spoke to soon, time for a dealer visit.
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  #38  
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Got to the dealer today. Fortunately they got it to act up and determined it is the BCM causing the issue. One is on order now and all will be warranted! Yay!
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  #39  
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Good to hear that it failed while there - That's always a problem with intermittent failures...

Good Luck - Let us know if that really resolves the problem...

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  #40  
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I am very happy with the outcome so far. The security light in the speedo cluster has been coming on (I don’t have security) and their theory is the BCM thinks there’s a security issue and won’t let it start (temporarily). Seemed to make sense to me... I hope it gets fixed also as right now the plan is to ride to Colorado (and beyond) with a friend next summer. Warranty runs out in January...

Last edited by ADK XL; 1 Day Ago at 15:23..
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