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  #1  
Old 11th October 2019
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Default Battery/regualtor/charging strange problem

I'm facing a strange problem.
Probably only a "need to replace battery" but I want to understand better.

I have a 4 years old Lithium battery on my 1990. See on signature the specs.
A fantastic battery. Never a problem. I even started the bike after 10 months of stop and battery not disconnected.

Lately I had to charge it some morning (it start to be cold) going work.
But once charged if used regurarly I have no problems.
Last time had to recharge a bit after 5 days of no use.
So I started be prepared to diagnose some problem. (put a multimeter in the work bag)
Used flawlesslyfor 2 days and yesterday this happened:
I made about 8 km (5 miles) going to work and at a traffic light at idle, i saw the Autometer tach to jump to 8000 rpm and the numbers on the AFR gauge flickering and dim. Neutral light too.
It died 10 meters later. Tried to restart but it was out of juice. At the end no lights at all.
Called wife and she came with jump start cables (1 hour later - damn!...wifes....LOL-). I was not positive on jumping start it because the multimeter i carried with me was telling about 8.5 V. My plan was to let the bike on road, remove battery, charge it , and return with totally charged battery to return home.
Waiting wife the readings were improving up to about 9.8-10.0V.
JumpStarted the bike I was thinking to have the bike dead soon or immediately.
The bike was running perfect instead, but I was ready to hear the bike sputtering and loosing life. It continued perfectly up to 1 km away from home. It started to loose tach, and AFR gauge digits.
Measured 8V!, and jumped again immediately. Damn It works! so at home I decided to turn around home on nearest roads and see how time it was still working. It lasted about 10 mins.
How it is possible that the bike works with a 8V battery?

If the stator/regulator charges the bike when key on and engine running, this means it works.
I mean, If I charge battery to 13V, I use it and after some kilometers it is 8V, and the bike dies, how is it possible that starting it with 8V It lasts the same kilometers as if I charghed to 13V?

Some day ago I measured the voltage reading at the battery and when at 2500 rpm I can't see spikes or erratic readings, but it reads steady at 12.8 to 13.0 without reading more revving more .
and at idle, the voltage is not less than when at 2500 rpm.
Ant thoughts?
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160/60ZR17 rear on Akront 4.25" Alu rim
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1975 XLH almost stock

Last edited by conv90; 11th October 2019 at 11:14..
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  #2  
Old 11th October 2019
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Sounds like your charging system is not working to keep the battery up...

Here's the Sportsterpedia section on the Charging System:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...harging_system

Be sure to do the test of the Stator Output:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...lternator_test

If the stator test proves you are getting good voltages (stator not grounded), then you probably have a regulator issue - You can run the bike with the regulator disconnected - From a fully charged battery, the bike should run just fine for several hours (longer if you disconnect the headlight)...

Diagram of the Charging System from the SP:



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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 11th October 2019 at 11:30..
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Old 11th October 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Sounds like your charging system is not working to keep the battery up...

Here's the Sportsterpedia section on the Charging System:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...harging_system

Be sure to do the test of the Stator Output:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...lternator_test

If the stator test proves you are getting good voltages (stator not grounded), then you probably have a regulator issue - You can run the bike with the regulator disconnected - From a fully charged battery, the bike should run just fine for several hours (longer if you disconnect the headlight)...

Diagram of the Charging System from the SP:



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I posted this story only after reading the aforementioned links on Soprtsterpedia.
The weekend i'll work on this.
Thanks
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Old 13th October 2019
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Stator seems KO.
Resistance on both female holes on stator connector are INFINITE ohms
Strange is that in a correct manner resistance is infinite on both holes to ground.

Regulator checks are OK . resistance to ground on each contact of the regulator to ground are infinite, and regulator case to ground is 0 ohms.

Now I'm charging battery to do the voltage production of stator.
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Old 13th October 2019
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Measure stator resistance to ground (∞) and stator resistance (0.1 to 0.5 ohm, depending upon system), pin to pin.

22 amp system ~ 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system ~ 0.1 to 0.2 ohms

Infinate resistance to ground is a proper read, indicating that none of the windings are shorted to ground.

If the reading of one lead to the other is less resistance than spec, then coil windings have shorted to one another, bypassing some of the coil(s), reducing output capability.

If the reading of one lead to the other is more resistance than spec, there is a high resistance connection.
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Old 13th October 2019
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Thanks to all
Stator is KO, after ohms reading I was sure.
I removed the primary and the clutch and I found the cable completely cooked, it broke in my hand only touching it.
It was repaired about 15 years ago, and it broke just at the weld repair.
Time for a new stator.
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Old 14th October 2019
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Glad you found the culprit...

Be sure to stop back here to finalize the thread - Give us an update once you get the new stator & have it installed and working...


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Old 15th October 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Glad you found the culprit...

Be sure to stop back here to finalize the thread - Give us an update once you get the new stator & have it installed and working...


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Sure. I've found a ready to ship drag specialties stator so Ill receive tomorrow. Sat Ill install and Ill tell if all is solved.
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Old 23rd October 2019
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Default [solved]

Sunday I replaced the stator with a new one. All is OK now and it charges properly. I have 13.20-13.50 V while engine is running at about 1500 rpm on a 12.80V charged battery.
Some difficult to place the 2 wires coming from the stator in order to avoid contact with basket and magnets.
The two wires were longer than the original stator.
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Old 23rd October 2019
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Glad you managed to sort it out, and for coming back with the answer.
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