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  #1  
Old 11th October 2019
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Default Divorced quick question

Blown countershaft boss.

If I divorce my case, will I have to have the main bearing races rebored/lapped?
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Old 12th October 2019
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When I divorced my ‘54 KHK, I cannibalized the mounting bosses from another case that had blown a rod through the bottom and had one set welded to the back of the case halves and the other set to the front of the trans. This was done by a really Cracker Jack weldor and everything was heated and cooled properly during the process.

When I took the cases to my engine builder he laughed and said I shouldn’t have wasted my money and they would never line up again.

They were almost perfect, required minimal lapping, and both the motor and tranny went together just fine.

Is your break really bad enough it can’t be repaired ?
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  #3  
Old 12th October 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim The Grim View Post
When I divorced my ‘54 KHK, I cannibalized the mounting bosses from another case that had blown a rod through the bottom and had one set welded to the back of the case halves and the other set to the front of the trans. This was done by a really Cracker Jack weldor and everything was heated and cooled properly during the process.

When I took the cases to my engine builder he laughed and said I shouldn’t have wasted my money and they would never line up again.

They were almost perfect, required minimal lapping, and both the motor and tranny went together just fine.

Is your break really bad enough it can’t be repaired ?

I really don't even know yet. I have two cases. I have a 73 that was left outside so the bearings need to be replaced. I'd like to use it because the tranny wall is so thick. I was just quoted $3400, $1100 of which is for parts. That seems steep. This would replace the 72 with the cracked counter shaft boss. Or I could use the 72 and fix the crack and have a donut installed over the boss.

I have a bunch of questions about this all too.

I don't yet know what kind of money I should be looking to spend and I'm looking for opinions on cost.

One question I have is, if I go with 9:1 cast pistons, do I have to balance the crank/piston assembly? I was under the impression that when you do a top end job, you don't have to split the case, you just work on replacing the pistons, service the cylinders, service the heads, and you're good.

I've had the bike almost 2 years now and one guy had the 72 case for 50 weeks and never started working on it so I brought it somewhere else, where they want the $3400 to put the 73 case together for me. And that's not even counting the valve job yet.

Thansk if you've been able to read this far.
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Old 12th October 2019
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It is not a sound economic decision to spend more than the value of a bike to fix it. You will have to keep it for a lifetime to get your money's worth out of it. If the guy that puts it together is good enough to make it last that long.

If he has not included replacing the exploding gears in the trans, I would not consider him an Ironhead expert, and would move on. Some of the original gears are not made well and when they break it is catastrophic to the cases.


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Old 12th October 2019
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Originally Posted by ryder rick View Post
It is not a sound economic decision to spend more than the value of a bike to fix it. You will have to keep it for a lifetime to get your money's worth out of it. If the guy that puts it together is good enough to make it last that long.

If he has not included replacing the exploding gears in the trans, I would not consider him an Ironhead expert, and would move on. Some of the original gears are not made well and when they break it is catastrophic to the cases.


They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm hard headed
Thanks Rick yeah I'm asking around now for more local Harley machinist people. I wouldn't even mind driving an hour or two for a good guy. I just got 1-2 leads last night; there's a machinist in my town even.

I'm going to take the work one step at a time and not throw that much money all in one day it at. These people have a bike running on the salt flats and I don't think I need that kind of a reputation or get a ratbike ironhead going.
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Old 13th October 2019
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Taking an engine i for sevicing one step at a time does not make it any cheaper. It is usually is more expensive that way. Saving the money up and finding a reputable shop to do it all at once is usually less expensive and the timeline will end up the same as the piece meal work. Plus its much easier to get somewhat of a warranty on an assembly than it is to get it on pieces.
Also dont just base your shop perception on them paying an entry to run on the salt. Lots of shops have some kind of race entry, and then again lots of races have entrants that DNF or even DNS. Go to any major racing event on practice day and observe the competitors. If you have never done this you only get a glimps of the QUALIFIED entrants that make the show on raceday. Choose wisely.
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Old 13th October 2019
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For the amount of money you are talking about you can probably buy a running bike and use the other for a parts bike or transfer the motor.
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Old 14th October 2019
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I can get, from a friend of a friend, a trade for all my motor parts (complete 72 plus the 73 case) and $800 for a running 1970 motor.

Opinions?
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Old 14th October 2019
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does the'70 have electric start?
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Old 15th October 2019
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Probably way cheaper to just block off rear of motor and run a 4 speed fl tranny and electric start kit.

Mentioned only if tranny part of cases are fubar beyond repair.
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