normal shifter shaft wobble

[T_worth]

I'm replacing my shifter shaft on my 97 XL1200S because I realized its actually bent when I took my primary cover off. Previous owner didn't tell me it was dropped.

From what I've read on another thread, having some shifter shaft wobble is normal when the primary cover is off because the bushing in the cover isn't holding it in place. However, since I have the clutch all disassembled, I would like to double check and make sure this is normal or if the bushing behind the shifter spring is bad.

https://ibb.co/c8G87Xc

https://ibb.co/xY0J4C0

[T_worth]

Are the links to the images not working? Does no one have an answer to how much wobble the shifter has? Is this amount normal?

[harley506d]

Links are working but slow to load for me.
Can't help with amount of play though. It's probably ok as is.
Surprised no-one's come to your aid as yet.

Good luck sorting it.

[Hippysmack]

I went down on the interstate and bent mine.
I had the same concern with the wobble once I opened up the primary.
The bushing to bore clearance is too much for my liking.
So I bought a new bushing, installed it to find the new bushing gave more wobble than the old.
There is no spec for it in the manual.
I don't like the wobble since it's harder to set the measurement for the shifter.
But once the cover is on, the shaft should be supported and not wobble.

It's not the bushing, I believe is the problem. It's the bore in the case.
I believe Loctite or some kind of sealer was suggested as a possible fix around the bushing but I never addressed it.
I just put it back together and rode.
Don't use silicone whatever you do.

I couldn't get the shift shaft to stay still long enough to set the measurement. The book says to use a #32 (0.116) drill bit. I bought one and spent half a day trying to make it work. I read in another post on shift pawl adjustments, the drill bit sets an even distance between the shift pawl forks and the shift pins. So, I took off the detent plate and set this by eyesight since when measured, there is not enough room there to put 0.116 between both sides of the pawl and the pins. I set the measurement with the bit and it would not shift right. So, I took the shift shaft off and pulled it apart to find that the spacer and the washer were backwards. The spacer was the old part so I took a 3/8“ grade 8 washer and put behind the big spring and used the washer as retainer on the outside. This beefed up the shift shaft so it didn't move or rather flex back as soon as I tighten it down. I chunked the idea of the drill bit, set the measurement by eye for the shift shaft with the cam plate off and whalla. it works. I also replaced the spacer between the shift plate and the pawl. The new one added 3 thousandth's.





Size fixed

[IXL2Relax]

That image may be small in the SP but it's actual size is 2,304px × 1,728px

Try using this reference in your IMG code:

http://sportsterpedia.com/lib/exe/fetch.php/techtalk:ref:svcproc:transmission_inspection_55_by_hippysmack.jpg?w=400&tok=88dae5

IXL _______ >>>> My Motorcycle Chronicles Are Here <<<<
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[Hippysmack]

That is odd.
I actually copied that pic from SP, opened it with 'paint' to resize.
Then discovered it was already 400x300 pixels and only 16.9kb.

I then copied the entire image and pasted on a blank picture space and resaved.
It is now 400x300 at 47.2kb... but smaller on the screen now.
???

Did the same for the other pic,

[T_worth]

Originally Posted by Hippysmack

So, I took off the detent plate and set this by eyesight since when measured, there is not enough room there to put 0.116 between both sides of the pawl and the pins.

I like the idea of taking the detent plate off to set it.

I went to my local hardware store and couldn't find a #32 drill bit. Is this a specialized drill bit I should order online? Will the next size down/up be okay, as long as its even?

[wedge]

Wobble in that shaft with the primary cover off is completely normal and usually more than what I see on yours. It's not designed to work with only one end of the shaft held in position. Just put the cover back on and run it. You do want to be very careful installing the seal. Wrap a full layer of scotch tape over the splines. Then slide the seal over the taped end of shaft. It will leak if you don't.

[Ireeman]

Sportsters are a wobble shaft on everything, nothing lasts....i never in my life had to put loche tight on any handle bar control screws. Dirt bikes i understand, that shit needs to be loose. Street needs to be tight and WTF really, yep....shit can fall off 2 days from factory.

Understanding a Sportster is, if old enough..a constant battle for bolt and nut vigilance.

[Hippysmack]

My first run thru, I expected tight machined connections.
I did manage to tighten the assembly somewhat but the drill bit didn't work for me.
I even machined my own gauge pin on the lathe.
End result, the bore the assembly sets in is a loose fit of the bushing.
I didn't like that and I still don't.
I meant to turn my own bushing to replace the OEM one but didn't.
Oh, the new bushing I bought ended up being slightly smaller OD than the old one.
So I adapted the reasoning that wedge mentioned, put it all back together and had no problems with the shifter.
There isn't any real load on it anyway.
All it does is oscillate in the bore depending on which direction you're shifting.
The cover will sturdy it.
About the only way to fix it is going to be turning a bushing to a light press fit in the bore.
That would keep it from dangling while you're trying to set the spec.
But then you can still be off if the pressing doesn't go straight in and kicks sideways.
Then there may be some slight wiggle room of the cover when installed that would make that even worse.
So, it appears it's made to wiggle.
It'd be nice if they would have stated that in the manual.