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Sportster Motorcycle Engine Conversions Advice, questions, and tips for 1200, 1250, 1340, 1450 etc... for Sportster and Buell motorcycle engine conversions

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  #1  
Old 13th May 2011
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Thumbs up Phillober's 1250 Conversion thread (pic heavy)

Maybe a little too heavy, I tried to snap a pic at every step of the way and I may have gone overboard, I have 96 to post of what I've done so far.... you'll just have to suffer

I know this may be boring for some but when I was looking into doing the conversion I loved these pic threads, hopefully someone will find it useful

Ok enough of my yappin'... on with the goodness:

NRHS goodies: 1250 kit, .536 cams, Twin Tech ignition and single fire coil, the heads are getting stage 2 light treatment


gratuitous bike shot before removing the saddlebags and seat


removed the battery


removed A/C and back plate


then pulled off the carb, it just pulls straight out of the manifold, no bolts or anything, there are 2 black rubber hoses that connect to it, one pulls off straight, the other requires a screw driver


I didn't bother unhooking the throttle cables, just placed the whole assembly on a chair


here is what lies behind the carb, the manifold (with my white rag stuffed in it, this is done to prevent things from falling into places we don't want)


taking the tank off, just a bolt like this one at the front and another at the back of the tank, then a ground wire that bolts to the frame under the seat, and unhooking a couple of tubes


and the tank is off


Then I just laid it on the ground on a rug, it is about half full but doesn't leak (at least not yet)


Last time I took the tank off I put it back on before putting the bolt that holds the ignition on, my bolt is a bit long so I couldn't get it in there, had to use a zip tie to keep the ignition in place I hope I remember this step this time
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  #2  
Old 13th May 2011
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This is looking from the right side of the bike, (notice the manifold) I am pointing to the VOES


and it just slides right out (I did drop a washer though... I'll have fun finding out from where when I put everything back together )


and it is connected to the frame from just above where it sits


and this is a VOES


Here's the other side of what the VOES sits into, taking off the motor mount here


motor mount gone


Taking off the exhaust now, just 2 nuts for each pipe at the heads, they are sort of at an odd angle, not the easiest to take off but also not the hardest, each pipe also has a bolt on the other end of the pipe securing it to the motor, newer models may vary


and then it pulls straight out, same for both pipes


time for the jack, I have to becareful of the sharp edge that runs along the bottom of the frame, I put the jack just to the right of it


when I jacked up the bike I also had to jack up the carb not a big deal


all jacked up, secured and stripped (mostly) time to get to the good stuff
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  #3  
Old 13th May 2011
AsSeenOnTV AsSeenOnTV is offline
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Where is that popcorn eating smilie when I need it
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Old 13th May 2011
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Now for the rocker box covers, I started with the rear since I knew that was the harder one to get out due to frame clearance....just 4 bolts and the top and middle covers come right off, however this bolt is the most troublesome since the frame sits almost directly above it, hard to get at it straight but take some time, it does come out


then you wiggle the top cover a bit


and then out it comes from the right side


and the middle comes out even easier


To get the bottom one off they say you need to rotate the rear wheel to close the valves (pics of that to come) in order to do this you must unscrew your plugs,


Here is the lower rocker box cover with all 9 bolts holding it in


here's just a leaf that fell in the hole in the center of the covers


See that big spring looking thing in the back? well when you turn the rear wheel those move up and down, it's easier to get the cover off if they are as far down as they can be, this is why you rotate the rear wheel

infor from steelworker: "Both pushrods should both be at their lowest position, so pressure is off the valve springs. At this point, the piston is at or near top dead centre on the compression stroke" ...... push rod pics are a few pics down



here's just a comparison shot of the 2 springs (valve springs) you can see how one is higher than the other


here's a push rod, they sit on the other end than the springs (push rods have the red stripes around them, 3 stripes on the rod closest to the exhaust side, 1 stripe for the rod on the intake side)


Last edited by Phillober; 14th May 2011 at 21:25.. Reason: added info from steelworker
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Old 13th May 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillober View Post
Maybe a little too heavy, I tried to snap a pic at every step of the way and I may have gone overboard, I have 96 to post of what I've done so far.... you'll just have to suffer

I know this may be boring for some but when I was looking into doing the conversion I loved these pic threads, hopefully someone will find it useful

Ok enough of my yappin'... on with the goodness:

NRHS goodies: 1250 kit, .536 cams, Twin Tech ignition and single fire coil, the heads are getting stage 2 light treatment
Looking forward to all 96 of them! Thanks for the post!
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Old 13th May 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AsSeenOnTV View Post
Where is that popcorn eating smilie when I need it
Here you go...
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Old 13th May 2011
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Now to get at the 9 bolts that hold the bottom box cover on, once again the rear under the frame is just in an awkward spot so it takes a bit more time but it'll come off, the manual didn't mention anything about doing 1/4 turns at a time or whatnot, but if you pay attention you will see part of the cover rise up as you take out the bolts... so doing it evenly may be a good thing


for the rear cover, taking out the push rods is a must to get the cover off, they just pull straight out


Now looking back at the springs again you can see I'm lifting the rocker box over them and sliding it out... easy sleazy


and here is the top of the head, notice the leaf from above


now the bolts I'm pointing to are the ones the manual says to loosen 1/4 turn at a time in a specific pattern, there's 4 per head and damn if they weren't stuck in there good


Here's the bolt pattern from the book


Here I am working my @$$ off to get the first one going... wasn't very easy at all!!!


then when I get to bolt 3 I have no room to work with!!!!! so I say F this noise, there's gotta be a better way.. let me emphasize what a pain in the neck these bolts were to even get to budge


So hard I lost my only 1/2" star patterned ratchet head


Couldn't believe I only had one, but that's ok, went to the hardware store and found this bad boy!


BAM this breaking bar made short work of those pesky head bolts, don't know how I've gone this long without one
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Old 13th May 2011
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When I went to pull the bolts out finally I got scared. I thought I broke the bolt in the cylinder!!!!


but no, such a relief... the threads are on the inside


Here's taking off the manifold, that 'Z' shaped wrench I got on amazon for $13 or so, it's called a manifold wrench and is made just for this purpose. I bought it cuz I didn't want to get to this point and have to wait


manifold off


Then the head just comes off... it was a little sticky, book says not to pry it off, hit it with a soft hammer, it didn't take but a tap


sans the head


these are the push rod covers, they just pull straight out (on the other head they actually stuck to the head as I pulled it off )


here's what it looks like in the push rod cover base, those paper clip looking things, that's the top of the tappets, one tappet sits in each hole underneath the push rod for a total of 4, (more of them to come later)


Ok now back to the cylinders, here's a shot of one, for all you pro's how does this look?


shot of both
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Old 13th May 2011
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Awesome I am so pumped to do my conversion now! Keep these pics coming!
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Old 13th May 2011
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Here's just some more shots of the head, the top


the bottom


Here's what it looks like from the bottom of both as they sit on the bike, I'm pointing to the spot where the manifold/carb would sit


That makes this the intake port/valve


and this the exhaust port/valve


since it sits next to.. you guessed it, where the exhaust connects


and the push rods are similar, I know that was boring for a lot of you but there was a time when I would read tech info and they would refer to intake/exhaust and I didn't really know what they meant, and I bet there are others who don't... but now I do

ok back to the meat

the cylinder, just like the head comes off with a slight tap if needed, just slides over the studs


and here, without the cylinders, you can see the pistons


Here's the drawing of the piston assembly, 3 is the retaining clip rings (also called circlips), 4 is the piston pin, sometimes called wrist pin, and 6 is the piston


The next step is to remove all 4 retaining clips (circlips) in order to slide the wrist pin out and the piston will come off.... be sure to put rags in the engine holes because these things can go flying and you don't want them down in the engine case

here's a close up of the wrist pin with the retaining clip/circlip, if you look at the bottom of the hole where there is a dip/groove you can see the metal ring (compare with pic below)


Books says place an awl in the groove and pry out the ring, all I had were blue jays and a screw driver


it was tricky, had to wedge 2 screwdrivers in there at times to get it out, but it came, 1 did go flying but landed in my lap, here's the retaining clip, you can now see in that groove/dip where the clip used to be
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