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  #1  
Old 26th July 2016
conv90's Avatar
conv90 conv90 is offline
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Default :( New deep rebuild on my 90 inch

I have posted in others threads that my 90 inches (specs in signature) had scratches on cylinders and pistons.
I found ONE of the causes on the oil pump. I was working on the case to allow the use of a new 5 speed style OIL PUMP on my 4 speed.
Saturday I made a sad discover: the rear rod is loose. It has an Up&Down play. (the front rod has 0 play).
If I turn the flywheel and the oil cover the bearings the play is less, but I still can feel it.
It's not a big play BUT i can feel "something" in my fingers.
The flywheel is the 1990 original one with about 250K kilometers. (I think it's normal that it's at the end of his life).

Now I really don't know what to do.

The real problem is always in a 5 letter word: money.

For sure I need new Axtell 90ci cylinders and CP 30° deg pistons (because of my STD heads that are shaped for this kind of pistons).

I was "metabolizing" the expense for the cyl/pistons.
Not for a new lower end .

I have no tools nor skill to assemble a new connecting rod using a new QUALITY crankpin.

Probably I can BUT at the end I'll be not able to add it to the wheels and have it trued/balanced. Probably I can (I trust myself... but I know I'll have no time to use, and i'll finish probably after years).
I asked to some builder here (You know I'm in Italy and I trust no-one), and the assembly/trueing/balancing along with a new Jims crankpin is too high.

Even assuming that the work will be PERFECT, the cost is high enough to ask directly to S&S for a new 3-13/16 crank assembled and balanced.

I'm open to suggestions/advices on what to do.

I have another appealing solution:

A friend of mine 6-7 years ago bought a S&S 89ci kit. He never installed. He sold many things because he never installed. He still has the 4-5/16 crank. I can give me for a fraction of the cost.
It would be a 101 cubic inches and MANY others mods to do due to higher cylinder lenght. But these are things I can manage by myself.

I'm open to suggestions/advices on what to do.
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  #2  
Old 26th July 2016
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Default

I would get the crank from your friend providing its a friend you can trust. And build away. I've been working on Harleys since 1968 sometimes at harley davidson dealers. Sounds like a great idea to me.

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  #3  
Old 26th July 2016
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Default

It's longtime I'm thinking to this stroker engine. It sounds good but details to consider are very important. It wouldl be 3.875 bore x 4-5/16" to a 101.78 c.i. It would be again a stroker motor like a sportster is. (now it's overSQUARE [3.875x 3.8125]).
I don' care about stellar HP at 7500 rpm .
but:
longer cylinders (5.087" Vs. 4.650") .437 taller
longer pushrods
different head bolts
different intake manifold
difficult to put in the stock frame. (this worrie me more )
custom exhaust (due to taller engine).
custom engine mounts
then I'll need for sure a new pinion gear and probably an oil pump drive gear, pinion shaft nut and lockwasher. (87 style)
In addition I have to understand if I can have 5.087" cylinders (if they are special order ).
then I have to consider that I have the combustion chambers on my STD heads with allready about 11:1 compression.

I have to check with my friend the condition of the flywheel assy because it's about 6-7 years in a box.

Obviously if he give me for 200 Eur it's a MUST to do.


BUT i'll be happy just to have back my 90 inches with stock 3-13/16 stroke and my seasoned rods FIXED and reliable for the next 100 k Kilometers.
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  #4  
Old 27th July 2016
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Default Deep in 90 inch rebuild

The only alternative is to call S&S and special order what you need. Expensive? Yes but what else or what other options do you have, If you want to stay at 90" you may have to pay. I am a true believer in S&S products, so give em a call
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  #5  
Old 27th July 2016
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Default

A 3-13/16 balanced crank from s&s on my specs is about $1250.

Last edited by conv90; 27th July 2016 at 18:41..
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  #6  
Old 30th July 2016
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If it was me....stock stroke back to 90" where you were....but that is just me.
Stroker I think will be quite involved read expensive.
Good luck.

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  #7  
Old 20th September 2017
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by conv90 View Post
I have posted in others threads that my 90 inches (specs in signature) had scratches on cylinders and pistons.
I found ONE of the causes on the oil pump. I was working on the case to allow the use of a new 5 speed style OIL PUMP on my 4 speed.
Saturday I made a sad discover: the rear rod is loose. It has an Up&Down play. (the front rod has 0 play).
If I turn the flywheel and the oil cover the bearings the play is less, but I still can feel it.
It's not a big play BUT i can feel "something" in my fingers.
The flywheel is the 1990 original one with about 250K kilometers. (I think it's normal that it's at the end of his life).

Now I really don't know what to do.

The real problem is always in a 5 letter word: money.

For sure I need new Axtell 90ci cylinders and CP 30° deg pistons (because of my STD heads that are shaped for this kind of pistons).

I was "metabolizing" the expense for the cyl/pistons.
Not for a new lower end .

I have no tools nor skill to assemble a new connecting rod using a new QUALITY crankpin.
............
..............Snip.......
.......................
I'm open to suggestions/advices on what to do.
Im here again
New crank with carrillo rods 6.938" on existing wheels new Axtell 90" cylinders and new 30 deg pistons.

New 5 speed style oil pump.

I have to reassemble all with my STD Heads
My concern is the fact I have not a place where to work on bike.
SO I'm thinking to assemble the engine in a room of my house and then assemble the engine on frame (frame is outside in the yard under a cover )

Is it advisable to install the Oil pump first?
I'll be able to install whole engine while the pump is allready installed under the block?

I remember I had really big problems in the past on installing the pump While the engine was in the frame.
Thanks
Beppe
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  #8  
Old 28th September 2017
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Default

I really need your help:
To install oil pump on block and then install the block to frame?
OR
Install the block to frame and then install the oil pump?
Thanks
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  #9  
Old 28th September 2017
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Default

Cant answer that but.
I did an '03 and the pump was no problem with the motor in frame.
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  #10  
Old 28th September 2017
Turbo Sporty 48 Turbo Sporty 48 is offline
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Do what you have to do, but try not to make enemies.
Do you have a factory service manual?
You obviously got the parts you need, good work!
My bike is in the living room, motor in a bin beside it, parts in 6 totes on a rolling rack, moved out the furniture.
Let us know how it goes, I believe you can get it done.
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