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Sportster Motorcycle Engine Conversions Advice, questions, and tips for 1200, 1250, 1340, 1450 etc... for Sportster and Buell motorcycle engine conversions

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  #21  
Old 22nd July 2007
tcp_rapper tcp_rapper is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: XLH 883 / 1200 conversion
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New HD heads have 7/16 holes for the front engine mount bolt and stud, not 3/8 like my old head. The new motor mount comes with the new Screamin' Eagle heads, but the bolt and stud don't.
  #22  
Old 23rd July 2007
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tonyhds tonyhds is offline
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If you have a 04 and up...... Don't do a conversion.

You might get lucky and it may work out for you.

Do you feel lucky ?
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04 NRHS 1250 Custom - Longhorns Orange

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  #23  
Old 12th September 2007
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mitch mitch is offline
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tips and tricks.... Tips, Like replace every stock part in your engine if you plan on doing a big bore kit!! Tricks, Like being able to afford all the unforseen Parts to supprt the "kit" you buy.
My Crank pin bearings just failed me at 10,000 miles on my build. Also the stock oil pump seems to be having problems. The stock starter broke at 7000miles, The vibes from the bad crank broke my very expensive Rinehart racing exhaust.(not to mention the pistons and cylinders). I am currently experimenting with machining my cases to fit a Buell 2008 crank and bearings (1.5" vs our 1.25") The new crank has to be modified because it is 1/2" longer too and has gear for internal oil pump. Upgrading oil pump to Proflow.

Oil consumption was my original problem but the big bore kit seemed to remedy it for the most part. Breather puke and excess pressure continue to plague me. I replaced the rear rocker seals 6 times so far, excessive crank case pressure I believe. [U]Deimus[/U] might be on to the cure for this. In fact I decided to finally join after reading his post, it is one of the most insightfull posts I have yet read here.

The only things stock and unmodified in my engine are the pushrods and transmission gearing.

I did a 90" on a 2005. Don't get me wrong, its awesome when it is in running order. Brian & the guys at Revolution did a great job, it just the stock parts that let you down. I love my Sportster, but I hate Harley.
  #24  
Old 13th September 2007
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mitch mitch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aussteks View Post
Who built this bitch, Mitch?

Just curious.
Revolution Performance handled the engine build. The person who actually built it was Dusty who is no longer there. I am currently employing the services of Mean Street Cycles in conjunction with Rev Perf for the rebuild.
Brian Nallin in my opinion is one of the best out there for this sort of thing. Especially if you live in the area. Of course I am aware NRHS is a sponsor of this site. I would not hesitate to pay them my hard earned money either if they were closer to me. Dan Dunn had patiently answered questions for me prior to my build and there site has a tremendous amount of info, Read it all before going big bore!
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2005 Custom 90" monster motor.
3 7/8" Millenium Nikasil cylinders, dynamically balanced, lightened flywheels with welded crank pin, ProFlow 3-stage oil pump, SE .575 cams, roller rockers, hydro-rev lifters, Stage 2 heads with 15 degree cut , forged pistons, 10.65:1 , Mikuni 45, NRHS Huricane intake, "Deimus" cam-cover crankcase breather, Bub Rinehart 3 step header 2:2, SE heavy-duty clutch, TC88A Ignition set@ 7000 rpm, Avon V-rated tires. Spun aluminum 150mph speedometer off SE V-rod and tachometer. Lots of other pretty details too.
  #25  
Old 19th September 2007
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mitch mitch is offline
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UPDATE....on warnings.

My opinion on Brian and the guys at Revolution Performance and Mean Street is fading fast.
The mechanic at Mean Street, RJ Naylor, abandoned the repair on my bike and no one bothered to call me. Apparently he slapped it back together with the old gaskets, old seals and messed up parts. I also got 3 similar but different stories about my bike from this guy.
Revolution Performances new stance the the engine they entirely built is that I should never have expected it to live for more than 10,000 miles.
Mr. Nallins opinions and statements to me at the time I handed him the money were far different than now. "10,000 is pretty good, thats a hotrod, thats alot of miles for that bike. Parts break you know."
I am currently 2 weeks into trying to get a straight answer on wether or not the bike can be repaired (not to mention possibly improved?) and how much its going to cost this time.
  #26  
Old 24th September 2007
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My aim in this thread was to point out real world associated costs and expectations of the conversion. As I write this I am ready to spend another $2500 to fix the bike, and more than that soon enough.
There are lots of budget minded individuals on this forum always asking questions because they want to do a Big Bore build too. There are also lots of people who ride 10,000 to 20,000 miles a year. As much fun as these bikes are, perhaps some people are not of the same mind or finance to rebuild it every year or sooner if you plan to ride 20K per year. For me it was a steep and expensive learing curve to make a new rubbermount Sportster an actual performance bike.

Here are other modifications I have reason to do that may be of benefit to others:

After I get the Crank fixed and other parts rebuilt I plan on adding a Jagg oil cooler, Proflow 4 stage oil pump(apparently the stock pump can have problems with weak springs and proper flow above 5000RPM) Either a RB 2" exhaust or D&D fat cat(yet to decide), Chain drive conversion (for better gear ratio and 180 wide tire), add Deimus's vent conversion, when the starter breaks again replace with Spyke 1.4K, and tweak the Hurricane filter into a closed RamAir type(I just like the stock hamcan compared to forcewinder is all).

Just my 2 cents.
Respectfully,
Mitch
  #27  
Old 25th September 2007
aussteks aussteks is offline
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I hear ya Mitch, I spent $6000 on my bikes hop-up, did the work myself(as I don't trust anyone f-in with my spensive shit)...

You want one of these Rockets, it costs.

For the budget minded, do a 1250 conversion and hope for 70hp...$1500?
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  #28  
Old 19th January 2008
DC in PHX DC in PHX is offline
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Here are mine off the top of my head.


Be careful to not put too much oil in the hole in the case that holds the #2 cam when pre lubing for assembly. That hole is a dead end hole, too much oil in there makes it nearly impossible to install that cam.

Lightly grease the intake seals to increse the chances of not having an intake air leak.

And don't forget to take your time and don't be afraid to ask for help. You can almost always get help here 24/7.

I'll add more tips later after I wake up

DC
  #29  
Old 13th March 2008
mortgarson mortgarson is offline
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Default lower pushrod seals

Those evil bastards. a couple of tips in doing it right.
lever the collar on the cylinder side down first using two medium to large screwdrivers (one on each side of the pushrod tube) wedged in between the lower fins.(Flat side vertical ) hold both screwdrivers down while making sure the metal of the collar is touching the metal of the case. If the collar isnt touching the case all the way around the the minute you tighten the allen bolt the seal will pop out. once you are happy that you have levered the collar hard down onto the case then do up the bolt.
Remember. if the collar isnt sitting flush with the case before you tighten the bolt then it will pop out its ugly face.
And after trying for 4 hours straight to get one in, that squished seal can look mighty ugly. And unless you spend all day wanking you fingers wont be strong enough to push it down. You need the lever action. Onve I used this technique the for seals went in ,in under 5 minutes. A thousand K's on the conversion and not a drop of oil on the outside of the motor.
Cheers Mr Glenn
  #30  
Old 21st October 2008
Gone Gone is offline
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Reading over these tips is very informative. I have seen several mentions of O-rings giving people grief.

Here is something we did when reassembling Textron 1500 HP turbine Engines for the M1 Tank. Which uses lots of small and large small diameter O-rings.

We lubed them up with Crisco and they slid right in without twisting or binding. Also the Crisco would just "cook" off when the engine was ran.

On the Detroits and Cummins we used a white grease, I think it was Lythium based, to do the same thing.
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