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  #181  
Old 6th September 2021
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Read that a few times it's easier than it may seem, but its also easy to get off track.

Bottom line is that for reading fuel mix in the mid range you look into the plug and the center of that wall is where you are seeing mid range. The bottom down there where metal meets porcelain is WOT reading, and the base ring where the strap is welded is where you read idle.
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  #182  
Old 7th September 2021
Jfart Jfart is offline
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I think it sounds pretty good. That ticking is most likely nothing to be concerned with. Mine have sounded like that for a lot of miles.

So now to fine tune. Take it for a ride (warmed up) with your idle screwdriver and if it has any hesitation just off idle, then open that screw up 1/4 turn and ride again. After that has no hesitation, then with the bike on the side stand, grab the throttle with a couple of fingers and quickly snap it to around half throttle a few times in a row and it should rev right up without any hesitation or coughing. The reason I say a couple of fingers is so you can't fat fist it to where it will not snap right to attention. I'm saying flip that throttle fast for this. If it passes that test as well as the last test looking for any lag off idle, then it's about perfect. Do these tests in the order I gave it to you here. You have to fix any lag before even bothering to check it for snappy reaction.

Once we are all happy with this, you can look into the mid range, and that requires reading the plugs.
Thanks for the info.

Are your referencing the idle mixture screw? “Open that screw up 1/4 turn”. When you say open are you referencing enrichment or more fuel?
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  #183  
Old 8th September 2021
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Thanks for the info.

Are your referencing the idle mixture screw? “Open that screw up 1/4 turn”. When you say open are you referencing enrichment or more fuel?
Yes and yes. That is, if when test riding it you still feel a hesitation off of idle.
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  #184  
Old 8th September 2021
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Yes and yes. That is, if when test riding it you still feel a hesitation off of idle.
I retarded the timing yesterday from .030 to .040.hoping that the heat line on the spark plug band will show more towards the end of the start and farther from the weld of the strap.

I leaned my IMS screw 1/8 turn and set the rpm’s to 6500. Went on a 10 mile ride and i didn’t notice any bad top end noise and the bike seemed to ride well. Wish I could have rode it longer but my left rear turn signal started dangling… it’s always something. Looks like previous owner stripped out the female treaded part of the bullet and red locktited it together.

Any recommendations on a less visible turn signal?

Thinking about getting a led break light that signals,runs, and breaks. Never done it though and I’m sure it will more than just the light since how they’re led. I don’t know much about restructures or converting standard to low voltage. Are these break light/turn signal lights a POS or should I just buy a new bullet? I’m open tk other suggestions too
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  #185  
Old 8th September 2021
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Originally Posted by Jfart View Post
I retarded the timing yesterday from .030 to .040.hoping that the heat line on the spark plug band will show more towards the end of the start and farther from the weld of the strap.

I leaned my IMS screw 1/8 turn and set the rpm’s to 6500. Went on a 10 mile ride and i didn’t notice any bad top end noise and the bike seemed to ride well. Wish I could have rode it longer but my left rear turn signal started dangling… it’s always something. Looks like previous owner stripped out the female treaded part of the bullet and red locktited it together.

Any recommendations on a less visible turn signal?

Thinking about getting a led break light that signals,runs, and breaks. Never done it though and I’m sure it will more than just the light since how they’re led. I don’t know much about restructures or converting standard to low voltage. Are these break light/turn signal lights a POS or should I just buy a new bullet? I’m open tk other suggestions too
The "heat line" is not an indication of timing or how hot the cylinder is.

This is not to say you were wrong in backing up the timing.

The heat line is a drag strip method of determining if the plug is the right heat range, and it is telling you how much heat is being retained in the plug between firing. It's the quick method though. The long term method is to look at the porcelain. Porcelain color will tell you if you are using the correct heat range plug. Again, this has nothing to do with the plug firing hotter, it just shows you how much heat is being retained and it is closer to the actual area where that heat is retained, therefore it is more accurate.

If you read "Plug Reading 101" that I gave a link for, you can see what the colors of that porcelain mean, no need to repeat it here.

Since you did find some black specks on that porcelain that is back up for you retarding the timing a bit.

I have no opinion on turn signals. I think the LED replacements are designed to work without adding resistance to the circuit, but I am sure that others in here are better informed on that.
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  #186  
Old 8th September 2021
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Here's the Sportsterpedia section on Turn Signals:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...3#turn_signals

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  #187  
Old 9th September 2021
Jfart Jfart is offline
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Originally Posted by wedge View Post
The "heat line" is not an indication of timing or how hot the cylinder is.

This is not to say you were wrong in backing up the timing.

The heat line is a drag strip method of determining if the plug is the right heat range, and it is telling you how much heat is being retained in the plug between firing. It's the quick method though. The long term method is to look at the porcelain. Porcelain color will tell you if you are using the correct heat range plug. Again, this has nothing to do with the plug firing hotter, it just shows you how much heat is being retained and it is closer to the actual area where that heat is retained, therefore it is more accurate.

If you read "Plug Reading 101" that I gave a link for, you can see what the colors of that porcelain mean, no need to repeat it here.

Since you did find some black specks on that porcelain that is back up for you retarding the timing a bit.

I have no opinion on turn signals. I think the LED replacements are designed to work without adding resistance to the circuit, but I am sure that others in here are better informed on that.
Thanks again foe the info. The amount of factual info on this forum is truly amazing. I’ve been using it close to daily for months now and I haven’t even begun to really dig into it. In fact, I just found the “misc resources” tab tonight on sportsterpedia… damn.

It’s amazing how selective the memory is. I knew you had a lot of track time from reading this forum but I just assumed the plug reading 101 was more general use. Once I read the comments more, it’s obvious that this method has been used on a track… a lot.

Sadly, I have to read some things many times to truly comprehend it in and out. I just read your “plug reading 101” for at least the third time and I’m still learning things that I’ve most likely forgotten.

I don’t work far from home but did get to ride to work back and forth today. Bike feels to be running at its best in years and I haven’t even gotten to really dial in the tuning yet. Thanks to this forum and hammer performance.

I probably adjusted too much at once but between retarding the timing .010 further and adjusting the switches on the ICM (dyna 2000i) to 6500 from 7500 has made a huge difference in top end sound and overall feel of how the bike runs. I always thought the 4th and 5th switch on the ICM only changed the rev limit but part of me thinks there’s more to those switches. It has to effect the timing of vacuum or something more than just a rev limit. I might see if someone from dyna tech would explain it to me.

Definitely got more work ahead. Now I just need the time to do it.
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  #188  
Old 9th September 2021
Jfart Jfart is offline
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Thank you. Looks like I have a lot more reading to do. This forum makes my HD manual look like children’s book at times.
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