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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #31  
Old 10th July 2021
Iron Mike Iron Mike is offline
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When front valves are closed, should be approaching small lobe on mag.
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  #32  
Old 10th July 2021
Doc308 Doc308 is offline
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Yes--Expose the front intake pushrod. While you rotate the engine, watch for that lifter to drop. Once it has dropped, very slowly rotate the engine and look for your flywheel timing mark in the hole. It should come up very shortly after that pushrod/ lifter drops. Another simple way is to place a straw into the front spark plug hole and when it rises upward , you are on the compression stroke. Always time the bike on the front cylinder compression stroke.
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  #33  
Old 10th July 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc308 View Post
Another simple way is to place a straw into the front spark plug hole and when it rises upward , you are on the compression stroke. Always time the bike on the front cylinder compression stroke.
it's only on the compression stroke every other revolution.that's why it's best to watch the front intake lifter close.
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  #34  
Old 10th July 2021
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Ok, thanks! That is the process I have followed- watch intake lifter to close, then rotate until timing mark appears.

Damn usps! Paid $20 extra for two day priority shipping on the carb and now they just say it is delayed. Don’t even know where it is.
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  #35  
Old 10th July 2021
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I stopped using usps for that very reason.


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  #36  
Old 13th July 2021
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Update- installed new Mikuni vm38-9 carb today and she started! Still took a few kicks, and restarting was hard. Need to figure out what works. Air screw is 1 1/2 turns out. Restart once hot seemed to need prime kicks, but then partially open throttle. Any tips on cold, warm, hot starting with Mikuni and magneto appreciated!

Ok, next issue is clutch is stuck. I reassembled according to manual, adjusted, but plates seem stuck. I did not disassemble clutch when I had primary cover off. It looked very clean, so left it alone. I thought maybe once it got started and warmed up the clutch might free up, but not so far. I read somewhere that one option to try would be to place front wheel against a wall then kick into gear, and plates may free up. Any tips with this?
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  #37  
Old 13th July 2021
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This is a 69 CH. right ?

When you pull the clutch in, can you feel the resistance and the travel ? Id there free play at the clutch lever ? This might just be adjustment.

If you put the bike in gear and pull the clutch in you should be able to free the clutch with some vigorous back and forth motion on the bike.

The plates will be sticky if the engine has been sitting for some time and oil has seeped in. Technically, it should be a dry clutch and not be a problem.
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  #38  
Old 14th July 2021
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Get the motor warmed up so it wont stall.

Push the bike to get it rolling and drop it into gear.

Shift into second or third, then rapidly open and close the throttle with the clutch lever pulled.

This will unstick the clutch plates.
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  #39  
Old 14th July 2021
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^^^ this should work fairly well for wet clutch primary models.for dry clutch models if the reason for the sticking is oil soaked friction discs they really should be replaced.or at least cleaned or the sticking can reoccur.
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  #40  
Old 15th July 2021
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Yes, ‘69 xlch dry clutch, and yes it has been sitting for at least 2 years. If I can’t get it to free up by Ferrous Head’s suggestion I may pull the primary cover and get into the clutch. I think I read somewhere that if the primary chain is too tight that could cause sticking clutch issues?
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