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circuit breaker, electrical, fuse, voltage

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  #1  
Old 13th September 2017
jktrax jktrax is offline
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Join Date: May 2015
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Sportster/Buell Model: sportster XLH
Sportster/Buell Year: 1973
Reputation: 10
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Default Added fuses to '73 sportster wiring

Anyone near Lancaster/Exton PA have a broken factory style mechanical voltage regulator they'd like to get rid? I want to remove the internals and use it as a fuse box.

I have a '73 sportster project I just got running (without the generator hooked up). After doing a little research after seeing an unexpected "L" and "B" marks on the generator, I discovered the cycle electric generator had a built in regulator. Tested the outputs while running at idle and revved, and it appears to be working fine (output voltage is a little hight at 16ish volts while revved up, but that is not connected to a battery/sink).

Anyway, long story hopefully not too much longer, I want to add fuses to the lines running from gen/reg "B" to battery and gen/reg "L" to indicator light, as well as a fuse in the line that runs from the battery post on the starter that feeds the key switch. Since I no longer need the mechanical voltage regulator, I was going to gut the internals and use the empty and conveniently sealed body as an enclosure for the fuses. And since all of the stock wires I want to fuse run to that location, I will have extremely little wire modifications to do.
Anyone have an idea of the amperage that would be expected out of the CE gen/reg unit, assuming a drained battery scenario?

Next item, 15Amp circuit breakers for the small diameter positive feed wires from factory? Seems like wires could burn up before tripping 15A. I know residential rule of thumb is 15A uses 14ga wire, which I'm sure has a decent safety factor build in. I'm interested to hear experience people have had with the circuit breakers actually tripping to prevent melted wires. I'm relatively new to the ironhead world, so I'd love to hear others input on this.

Thanks all. -Josh

(EDIT - I realize this should probably be in the "ironhead Sportster general talk" section)

Last edited by jktrax; 13th September 2017 at 17:24.. Reason: Change relay typo to regulator
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  #2  
Old 13th September 2017
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bustert bustert is offline
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Posts: 9,935
Sportster/Buell Model: 1200s
Sportster/Buell Year: 2001
Sportster/Buell Model #2: xlch
Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1974
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Default

bad idea
wire gauge is also dependent upon insulation around the conductor
fuses when blown offer no redemption, cb's are your freind
fuses need to be accessible, not tucked away in a can. also factor in heat, alters trip
ce site should provide that info
mechanical relay??? starter circuit???
my 1974 ch has NO issues with the cb"s, changed maybe one due to corrosion not because it failed.
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Old 13th September 2017
jktrax jktrax is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: sportster XLH
Sportster/Buell Year: 1973
Reputation: 10
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Default

I intend to at least fuse the generator/reg outputs. Worse case if these blew, I'd be running without a generator. As far as fussing the switch feed, not sure yet.

The idea behind using an old regulator body would be to have the connections to the back of the fuse holders be protected inside while maintaining a factory look. The fuses would be tube type (1/4 dia x 1.25"L) in panel mount holders that allow unscrewing from the bottom side of the body. These holders are similar to those found in older electronics and motor speed controllers. However, i do understand the redemption advantage of cbs, that won't leave you stranded if you're caught without backups.

This was just an idea to increase electronic protection... Obviously the bike came from the factory as intended, and I'm sure most folks never have any issues. I'm not as interested in the problems people have not had, but more interested in the problems that people have had.
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