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  #11  
Old 27th August 2009
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williamv1203 williamv1203 is offline
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I would just go with what Chuck said in post #4 of this thread... He's pretty accurate...
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  #12  
Old 27th August 2009
jgcable jgcable is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williamv1203 View Post
I would just go with what Chuck said in post #4 of this thread... He's pretty accurate...
With the bike off and the battery disconnected from the battery tender it immediately reads 13.25v. It eventually levels out to 12.68v.
I started the bike and remeasured... it reads 12.38v
I turned the headlight on and it dropped to 12.25v
I revved the motor and the voltage did not increase. I am not reading any overvoltage as stated in post # 4.
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  #13  
Old 27th August 2009
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williamv1203 williamv1203 is offline
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I would next be looking at the battery for problems. What type and how old is it?
If it is a lead acid type, there may be dead cells/plates.
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  #14  
Old 27th August 2009
jgcable jgcable is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williamv1203 View Post
I would next be looking at the battery for problems. What type and how old is it?
If it is a lead acid type, there may be dead cells/plates.
Its a brand new battery with the caps. When on the charger it charges up to 14.15v. It will hold a sufficient charge to start the bike after a few days.

I doubt very much it is a battery problem. Even if the battery was suspect it would still show being charged when the bike is running. There is no visible signs of charging of any kind when checked with a meter.
I mentioned this earlier but I will mention it again...
The stator/regulator connector was extremely hot when I went to unplug it while the bike was running so that I could check the stator and the regulator. It seemed to be much hotter on the side of the connector that leads to the regulator. I removed the regulator, cleaned the contacts that it makes with the frame so that they are spotless. That didn't do anything. The connector looks very clean and the pins are clean too. I assume the 3rd wire from the regulator goes to a relay that is mounted on the rear fender. That wire in turn comes out of the regulator and connects to the + side of the battery terminal. All that wire looks to be in fine shape too.
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  #15  
Old 27th August 2009
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cantolina cantolina is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgcable View Post
So I will assume there is no way to check the regulator without the bike running. My bike doesn't have a carb on it presently because I am having problems with it.

This morning I unplugged the stator/regulator connector and put one lead of my meter on one of the sockets in the connector leading to the regulator and the other one on the negative terminal of the battery. I was told I shouldn't have any voltage present. I tested both terminals and I don't have any voltage present nor are they grounded.
I tested it with the bike off and with the ignition on. I can't check it with the bike running currently.
You don't check the stator for voltage to ground..you check for continuity to ground! (with the bike off, that is) Resistance setting...
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  #16  
Old 27th August 2009
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And remember when checking alternator output, it is alternating current, not direct current. Heat at the plug suggests bad/dirty connection or the wires coming apart at the plug.
Ted
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  #17  
Old 27th August 2009
jgcable jgcable is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cantolina View Post
You don't check the stator for voltage to ground..you check for continuity to ground! (with the bike off, that is) Resistance setting...

I am using a Fluke 12. On the V-check setting if I touch the black and the red probes together the meter blinks telling me I have continuity. I have been using this meter for over 10 years to check continuity this way. On this setting the meter will also switch from AC to DC automatically when it senses either voltage. I can also test diodes in this mode.

The only other mode this meter has is the capacitance mode. I use this to test resistors, capacitors and potentiometers for their value.

I checked the stator pins using the V-check setting and I got no beep which means there is no continuity to ground. If there was.. the meter would beep.

What am I missing here??
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  #18  
Old 27th August 2009
jgcable jgcable is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ted View Post
And remember when checking alternator output, it is alternating current, not direct current. Heat at the plug suggests bad/dirty connection or the wires coming apart at the plug.
Ted
I am going to go triple check that connector tonight to make sure its as clean as I think it is.
The plug and socket doesn't get hot until they are connected. Within a minute or so they start to get warm. After 5 minutes they are hot enough to not be able to touch. Unplugging them cools them right down.
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Old 27th August 2009
WrenchAnRide WrenchAnRide is offline
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When checking the stator on a Triumph, one puts the test leads to both stator wires to form a loop and there should be continuity. Then one test lead to one stator wire, other test lead to ground and there should be no continuity, same/same for the other stator wire. This is also with the bike off.

In your case, when you touch a test lead to each pin separately and other test lead to ground, you're getting no continuity, right ? Same/same for each pin, yes ? Which I believe should be the case.......(I just replaced a voltage reg on the Sporty and the 2 pins plug INTO the wire connector coming from the alternator/stator. Not sure if your's is the same or reversed with pins facing the connector as it comes from the voltage reg. side ?).

Either way, whether it's male or female receivers from the alternator/stator side of the connector, is it O.K. to touch the test leads to both of those at the same time to form a loop ? And, if so, it should show continuity, yes ?

If I'm in the ballpark and you've got continuity between the 2 stator leads and no continuity from each stator lead to ground, then I'm thinking it's a voltage reg problem......
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  #20  
Old 29th August 2009
jgcable jgcable is offline
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Charging system is fixed. It was the regulator.
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