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coil, condenser, spark

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  #1  
Old 9th December 2014
toddn63's Avatar
toddn63 toddn63 is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: sportster ironhead
Sportster/Buell Year: 72
Sportster/Buell Model #2: xlch 1000
Sportster/Buell Year #2: 78
Other Motorcycle Model: xls 1000
Other Motorcycle Year: 80
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Default no spark

hello pulling out what ever hair i have left. 75 xlh 1000 was running sweet. then rear plug went bad, was running on one cylinder. replaced plugs. fired right up. ran for about 10 mins put her in the garage. next day no start. battery 13.1 v. no spark. ign side of coil 12.9v switched on run. 5.7 ohms btwn coil side terms. continuity in point side coil wire. continuity in both plug wires. connected test light ign side of coil btwn point side and cranked over, test light flashed. 17.100 ohms btwn secondary coil terms. switched in a second condenser i had laying around(not sure if it was good or bad, but different) still no spark. noticed when i switched off ign a spark would jump across the plug each time i switched off, but nothing while i was cranking. also found small crack in side of coil. bike is fairly new to me, and was sitting for about 9 years prior to me waking her, which i did with great care, and patience. any help or thoughts? ill post link to spark test video once i download.
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  #2  
Old 9th December 2014
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Crack in coil is not good. But that doesn't explain the spark when switch is turned off. What would trigger a fire when the switch is off? are you running EI?
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  #3  
Old 9th December 2014
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Sportster/Buell Model: sportster ironhead
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points ign. points sets to 18, coil seems to test ok even with crack. timing good
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  #4  
Old 9th December 2014
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toddn63 toddn63 is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: sportster ironhead
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Sportster/Buell Year #2: 78
Other Motorcycle Model: xls 1000
Other Motorcycle Year: 80
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toddn63 is an unknown quantity at this point
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here is a video of whats going on with the spark. i know i have to charge the batt, been working on this for cpl hours now. thanks check the vid http://youtu.be/Fm95cqNGawo
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  #5  
Old 9th December 2014
Mosey Mosey is offline
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Hey Todd, in my world a cracked coil is toast. I would replace it no matter if it Ohmmed out correctly.

BTW, you started this thread in a weird place, the Forum FAQ. You should ask a mod like Iron Mick to move it to the Ironhead specific area. Ask all yer Ironhead questions in the Ironhead area for the fastest response as many of the Ironheaders never leave their section and may never see your question.

Good luck!
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  #6  
Old 9th December 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mosey View Post
Hey Todd, in my world a cracked coil is toast. I would replace it no matter if it Ohmmed out correctly.

Good luck!
Yeah, I agree. But then the spark when keyed off? Yes , would replace anyway.
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  #7  
Old 9th December 2014
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toddn63, you started your thread in the 'Forum FAQ / How To' section, which is for posts about the Forum, and how to use the forum functions, so I'll move it to the 'Ironhead' section.
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  #8  
Old 9th December 2014
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The "spark" when Iggy is switched means 1]You must have Electronic Ignition and 2] It is working...except for the possibility the trigger is Not right!

Edit; If this is Not an electronic Ignition, then I suspect the points are grounded somehow, and when switched Off, the Coil breaks down and Fires!!
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  #9  
Old 9th December 2014
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I'm betting something's wrong with your points. With ignition switch off, rotate the engine until points are closed. Turn switch on and manually open the points. Do you get a spark at the spark plugs when the points open? If not, something's wrong with either the coil, the points, or the wire from the coil to the points. Or one half of the points isn't grounded like it should be.


Test the points with an ohm meter, or the ohm meter section of your multimeter:

Disconnect the condenser. With switch off, connect one ohm meter lead to one side of the points, connect the other ohm meter lead to the other half of the points. When points are closed, ohm meter should read 0 ohms (current is flowing from one half, through the points contacts, to the other half). When points are open, ohm meter should read infinity (no current flowing through the contacts).

Connect one ohm meter lead to ground, then test each half of the points with the other lead. If both halves of the points are shorted to ground (0 ohms), you'll get no spark. If one half of the points isn't connected to ground, no current will ever be able to flow through the contacts when the points close and you'll also get no spark.
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  #10  
Old 9th December 2014
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^^^ Makes me think...Simply remove the condenser...It won't effect the Fire, only won't run very good, and will burn the points if you run without it.
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